1840.] Russian Mission from Orenhourg to Bokhara. 75 



occupies half a day. From this several small fortresses, or villages^ 

 surrounded with water, are passed ; and the inhabitants furnish provi- 

 sions to the caravans. These castles are known by the name of Mader. 

 Eight verstes farther are other fortified villages, called Kameder, and 

 surrounded by fields and vineyards. They are supplied with water by 

 the sources of the Enden, lying just to the south of these forts. Half 

 a day's march from Kameder brings the travellers to Saikan; after 

 having crossed a very high mountain called Nalifarch. At twenty 

 verstes from Siikan rises the mountain of Agrabad; the fortress 

 of the same name lies at its base. This country is rich and well cul- 

 tivated, possessing mines of copper, silver, and gold. The shepherd 

 there mounts guard ; tliat is to say, all the inhabitants are soldiers; in 

 spite of which, they have been unable to maintain their independence, 

 for the fort has successively been subject to the shah of Afghanistan, 

 and the khnns of Koulm, shewing the possessions of the latter to be 

 sometimes of great extent. 



Beyond Agrabad tliere are some small hills, and after passing them, 

 and travelling 20 verstes, we reach Bamian, a very ancient city, containing 

 about 20,000 inhabitants, and surrounded by numerous villages. In the 

 neighbourhood are many rivers, and grottoes, containing sculptured 

 figures ; and on the summit of a neighbouring mountain, there are two 

 statues of prodigious magnitude. 



I was assured each of them w^as 20 toises in height, and a Hindoo 

 told me one of them was a representation of their god Rnma. These 

 colossal statues have long been celebrated in Europe, and are still in 

 existence. A Cashmerian told me gravely that the shah Merdan (pro- 

 bably the one buried between Balkh and Khoulm), had killed a dragon 

 that had long inhabited the summit of one of the Bamian hills, and that 

 the tears which fell from the eyes of the monster gave rise to the streams 

 which have ever since watered Bamian. 



The country is defended by 56 forts. A ruined town, called Mouja, 

 or Mija, lies a day's journey to the north of Bamian.* At three verstes 

 from Bamian the river of the same name flows towards the east. The 

 fort of Toptchi is 2 verstes farther on. At this place is crossed the 

 Choutour-Gherdan, the highest mountain between Balkh and Caboul. 



The traveller then reaches Kalou, a fort in the midst of mountains, 

 and containing about 200 houses; nine verstes farther he passes the fort 

 of Hadjihab. He then meets with a mountain and a village, whose 

 name is apparently Arabic, containing only about 40 houses. 



• The city of Bamian was destroyed in 1221 by the Mongols, who massacred all the in- 

 habitants ; for this reason they gave this city the name of «' dwelling of sadness," 



