6 



CURTIS & COBB'S 



earth, just to fairly cover the seeds, and should have the surface again gently 

 pressed down : a slight watering with a very fine rose will complete the operation 

 of sowing. 



As the seedlings appear above ground, give air by tilting the sashes at the 

 back. During cold nights, a mat may be thrown over the frame, which will pre- 

 vent the loss of heat, and maintain a more even temperature. As the plants 

 acquire a proper size, they should be thinned out so as not to injure those that 

 remain ; and then, when farther advanced, should be transplanted into four -inch 

 pots, — one, three, or five plants in each, according to the variety, — using a com- 

 post similar to that in which they were sown, replacing the pots in the bed, and 

 shading slightly till they are well established, and able to bear the full sun. 



By the middle of May, the seedlings will be ready for transferring to the beds 

 or borders where they are to bloom ; but, before this is done, the plants should 

 be " hardened off," in order to prepare them for the change. This is effected by 

 gradually giving the plants more air, and, when the weather is favorable, removing 

 the sashes wholly during the day ; or, if more convenient, removing them to a 

 cold frame, where they can be fully exposed in the day-time, and protected at 

 night with a covering of mats. Much must be left to the judgment of the cultiva- 

 tor ; the object being to prevent the plants from being injured by a too sudden 

 exposure to the open air. 



Biennials and Perennials. — Biennial and perennial plants are almost in- 

 dispensable additions to the flower-garden, displaying their blossoms early and 

 late, succeeding and even flowering with the spring bulbs, and continuing long 

 after the-frost has destroyed the hardiest annuals. They are so easily cultivated, 

 and require so little care, that they must be ranked as the most permanent and. 

 showy objects of the flower-border. We only need name the Larkspur, Phlox, 

 Lychnis, Coreopsis, Saxifrage, &c, as a few among the many elegant groups. 



Biennials are those plants that generally do not flower until the second year, 

 ind, after blooming, die. These include many splendid species, such as the Fox- 

 glove, Canterbury Bells, Sweet Williams, Hollyhocks, &c. Perennials are plants 

 <vhich do not bloom until the second year, but continue to bloom for years in suc- 

 cession, and may be propagated, after once obtained, by division of the roots, 

 growing more vigorously and flowering better if divided. 



The proper time for sowing the seeds of hardy kinds is in April or May, in 

 order to obtain a good strong growth the first year, and a greater abundance of 

 flowers the second ; but the sowings may be continued with success as late as 

 August. Whether the seeds are sown in beds or in the border, the young plants 

 should be thinned out, and afterwards transplanted, giving them more room, and 

 encouraging a vigorous growth by hoeing, watering, &c. On the approach of 

 severe frosty weather, protect the plants with a light covering of leaves or coarse 

 manure, and the succeeding year they will blossom in great profusion. 



THE SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION. 



The best soil for annuals, and for most flowering plants, whether biennials or 

 perennials, is a light, rich loam. In such they grow readily, and attain to great 

 perfection of bloom, with but little care. By the application of proper manures, 

 or sand or clay, they can be brought to such a condition as to answer all the pur- 

 poses of a flower-garden. Deep and thorough trenching in the autumn, if possible, 



