1839] Russian Mission from Orenhourg to Bokhara* 147 



Table bay, formed by the Sir, about 50 verstesin circumference; it is the 

 largest collection of fresh water we met with during our journey. 



The morning after our arrival, I started with some of my companions 

 and Cossacks to see the mouth of the Sir. We went round the 

 largest half of the Camechlu-bach, and observed two places where the 

 bay becomes narrower and joins the Sir. After having travelled about 

 twenty verstes by the side of the river, which had been covered with ice 

 for two days, we reached the spot where the waters of the Sir, mingling 

 with those of the sea of Aral, contract a saltish taste, and the river begins 

 to widen. At the distance of fifteen verstes it becomes forty toises in width; 

 the delta thus formed is covered with reeds, and the water upon it is not 

 above four feet deep, while the river itself is navigable as far as Kokan a 

 and is probably many toises deep the whole way. 



We did not quite attain our end, the height of Caraiar,and of On-adem, 

 small promontories on each side of the mouth of the Sir, partly conceal- 

 ed the view of the sea of Aral. We were still about 20 verstes from the 

 summit of these hills, and had already travelled more than 50, but as we 

 had accomplished the principal object of our excursion by seeing the 

 mouth of the Sir, we turned back again. 



Near the Camechlu-bach and along the banks of the Sir, we met a great 

 number of Kirghiz, who had fled from the cold of the northern steppe, to seek 

 a milder climate. We also saw others who had been robbed of their cattle 

 by the Khivians. Their destitute condition had obliged them to become 

 fishermen and agriculturists— occupations which among the Kirghiz in- 

 dicate extreme poverty. These two tribes, half savages, have alternate- 

 ly pillaged each other for the last 30 years, sometimes as aggressors, at 

 others to retaliate. After this period they began to make use of flour in 

 their food. Habit and economy soon taught them to consider it almost 

 indispensable. They use, however, but a trifling quantity, and come for 

 the purpose of baying it to the frontier towns of Russia or to Bokhara 

 and give in exchange sheep-hides, goat's and camel's hair. This ap- 

 pears to them a far pleasanter state of existence than the painful cultiva- 

 tion of the ground. Besides which, they have a great dread of becoming 

 serfs of the soil, and consider it the height of felicity to be as free as the 

 birds of the air. This is their favourite comparison, when they speak of 

 their wandering life. 



It is therefore easy to imagine why Kirghiz in easy circumstances ne- 

 ver cultivate the ground — besides which they have an ancient tradition 

 which says " The Kirghiz shall lose their liberty whenever they begin 

 to live in houses, and to follow agricultural pursuits;" and the tradition 

 acquires new strength from the example of the Bachkirs, of whoge 



