156 Russiwi Mission from Orenbourg to Bokhara. [July 



together, should they appear singly, then 20 or more men will assemble, 

 armed with matchlocks, near the reeds where the tigers hide themselves, 

 and set fire to them; the heat and smoke forces the tiger to quit his 

 haunt, when he his shot by the hunters. We had seen something of this 

 kind of hunting on the banks of Aralu-koullar and Kouwan-deria, 

 which are likewise covered with reeds, and swarming with wild hog, of 

 which we killed a great number, one day no less than eighteen in less 

 than three hours. 



This mode of hunting offers a very singular spectacle to Europeans. 



In the midst of a great plain covered with reeds, rise columns of smoke 

 and flame, through which may be seen a hundred Cossacks riding their 

 horses at full speed, sometimes before us and then behind ; our horses fre- 

 quently leading us directly on these ferocious animals, who plunge into 

 the swamps, or suddenly disappear into the reeds, to return with greater 

 fury on the hunters. Shots from guns and pistols are heard on every 

 side, with the neighing of the wounded horses, which were instantly 

 purchased by the Tartars to eat. The Cossacks enraged, were every 

 where attempting to spear the hogs ; one officer of Cossacks, offended 

 at being told he feared the chase, dismounted and laid hold of an im- 

 mense boar which had been wounded, and fired his pistol close behind 

 its ear. To comprehend the scene, it must be witnessed; no description 

 can convey an adequate idea of boar hunting in the desert. 

 I cannot describe to the reader the pleasure we experienced in again 



finding ourselves among wood, the rustling of the wind among the 

 branches, and a confined horizon, might be said to be for us a novelty, 

 recalling a fond recollection of cur country. It is in the deserts and 

 among nomades, that the true happiness of an European life is felt. 



The ruins of old canals are still to be met with in this country ; prov- 

 ing that it was once much better peopled than at present. 



Aboul-ghazi, khan of Khiva, generally passed some months of the 

 summer on the banks of the Kizil-deria, celebrated for their fine pas- 

 tures. 



In no part of the Kirghiz steppe, are to be so frequently seen traces 

 of ancient habitations as on the banks of the Djan-deria. I have seen 

 the ruins of Koul-tehomktau, which is composed of elevations of earth 

 of 150 toises in length, and the highest may have 3 toises (18 feet) in 

 height. It is clear these buildings, whatever they may have been, were 

 built with sun-burnt bricks ; near these ruins are small canals about 

 1 toise or 6 feet broad and two deep ; a great quantity of broken pottery 

 is also to be met with. These ruins are about 15 verstes from the Djan- 

 deria. The Kirghiz could give us no account of rtieir use or date, but 



