104 ' 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Feb. 3, 1894. 



in the hills of North Carolina and their form is derived prob- 

 ably from a mixture of pretty nearly every cross-roads dog 

 that are near a size and have enough hunting blood in them 

 to give tongue on a trail. It is natural that Mr. Dorsey 

 should uphold his dog, especially as the dog is a good 

 rabbit hunter, and we do not for a moment insinuate 

 that any other dog was substituted to make the pic- 

 ture. Knowing Mr. Dorsey, we may at once drop 

 that side of the question. What we meant is that the 

 dog is so placed that his crooked front is nob discernible, and 

 that he looks deeper and not so long as the dog seen at 

 Nanuet. The camera is not always true and may be made 

 to flatter a dog as much as it may be made to caricature 

 him. Before leaving this part of the subject we may ask 

 why Mr. Dorsey refused to have the dog photographed at 

 Nanuet; the dog was there, Mr. Dorsey was there, and our 

 camera was there. Mr. Dorsey had no such scruples when 

 we "snapped" him with champion Lee II. the year before. 

 That reminds us that another question may be asked. Mr 

 Dorsey's Ch. Lee II. is acknowledged to be a good field dog, and 

 his title proclaims his place on the bench. Now, which type 

 of beagle would Mr. Dorsey rather perpetuate in his capacity 

 as an official judge of the N. B. C, which he was at the time 

 of the field trials? If it is possible to get such types as Lee's, 

 combined with field qualities, then whv not aid the. N. B. C. 



n its good work rather than bring forward a dog like Pade, 

 whose ancestors rest under a cloud, as practically admitted 



n the evidence. It is to get dogs of the type of Lee II. (of 

 course he is slightly over size, but that is outside this ques- 

 tion) and to frown upon the Pades, that the N. B. C. has its 

 being.] 



• • • • 



That Foxhound Standard. 



Mr. L.W. Clute asks us what is meant by "the drops short 

 and well folded in" in the standard of the foxhound head as 

 arranged by the Brunswick Fur Club. We confess to ig- 

 norance on this point ourself unless it alludes to the nos- 

 trils. Speaking of foxhounds reminds us that, like a good 

 sportsman, Mr. Clute does not wish to sail under false colors 

 and corrects the mistake we made in saying in our Saratoga 

 report that he had bred and raised the large Workman-Lill 

 litter. Messrs. C. Whitney Tillinghast, Jr., Joseph H. Har- 

 rington, Geo. B. Harrison and Frank W. Edmonds own the 

 "Governor's" kennel and raised the pups, although. Mr. 

 Harrington is entitled to the chief credit, as he took personal 

 supervision of them until they were old enough to be taken 

 away, when each of the other men took two pups, leaving 

 six at the kennels, where, together with Lill, the mother, 

 they have been looked after by Mr. Harrington. To Mr. C. 

 McChesney we are also indebted for correct information on 

 this subject. 



■ • • • 



American Foxhound Club. 



The American Foxhound Club was organized at the Sara- 

 toga show, Jan. 19. Little real business was done beyond 

 the election of officers and enrolling of members. There was 

 a good deal of discussion regarding a standard, and Mr. 

 Lyman W. Clute tells us that he expects to issue this in two 

 or three weeks. The officers of the club are as follows: 

 President, Lyman W. Clute; Vice-President, Jo. J. Harring- 

 ton; Secretary, Geo. B. Harrison; Treasurer, Dr. H. T. Thur- 

 ber. Members: J. Otis Fellows, Chas. W. Tillinghast, Jr., 

 F. W. Edmonds, Calvin S. McChesney, A. T. Phelps. Wm. 

 Tallman, C. S. Wixom, F. B. Zimmer, Tracy Gould, H. W. 

 Lacy. 



■ • • ■ 



HUNTING AND COURSING NOTES. 



A quarterly meeting of the National Beagle Club of 

 America will be held at Madison Square Garden, New York 

 city, on Feb. 22, at 2 P. M. Members are earnestly requested 

 to attend. 



faceting. 



THE FIN-KEEL SCARECROW. 



(Concluded from Page 8k-) 



The amateur boat builder of to-day little knows how much he has 

 to be thankful for, and what immense advantages be enioys over the 

 preceding generation. Our own experience extends back to a time 

 when the whole literature of boating and yachting that was available, 

 or at all suitable to the wants of the young amateur, was included in 

 a few brief articles in the EnglLh boys' books and annuals ot sports, 

 these articles being remarkable chiefly for their pntiqua'ed woodcuts 

 and ingenious misinformation. At this same date, at least ab' ut New 

 York, the sources of practical information were as barren as the lit- 

 erature of yachting and building; and the enterprising amateur who 

 loitered too long about the door of a South street boat shop was not 

 infrequently invited in forcible language to move on, the invitation 

 being accompanied by indications of a use of force on the part of the 

 jealous builder against the robber who was "stealing bis trade," 



In our own jack-knife days, after perpetrating several wooden libels 

 on the art of naval construction, we w ere fortunate enough to enjoy 

 the favor and acquaintanceship of an old-time New York boat builder, 

 whose virtues as a man acd a mechanic were polished rather than 

 dimmed by a devotion to a certain flat bottle, and his subjection to 

 "the controlling influences of drink." Lnder his kindly and generous 

 guidance we were inducted into the mysteries of the craft, the techni- 

 cal terms, the making of molds and the bending of timbers, and even 

 to the crowning one of "spiling off" and setting a garboard. What we 

 then learned is all within the reach of younger amateurs to-day 

 through "Canoe and Boat Building," and all branches of designing 

 and building have been fully treated by able writers. 



Published designs, practically unknown in the days of our amateur 

 apprenticeship, are now abundant, and the course of the amateur, 

 what with the many improved tools of comparatively recent manufac- 

 ture and the available assortment of materials and fittings, is indeed 

 an easy one. One of our early essays in a timbered and planked boat, 

 after various experiments in the scow and bateau line, was a Rob Roy 

 canoe from Macgregor's description; and we remember yet our disap- 

 pointment on procuring the American reprint of the English edition 

 of the ' Rob Roy in the Baltic," to find that the American publishers, 

 presumably through motives of economy, had not reproduced the 

 designs of the canoe which appeared in the original book. 



Whatever disadvantages may be j'istly laid to the score of modern 

 yachts and small craft with long ends, this much must be said in their 

 favor that they are easy models to build, the beam is moderate, the 

 whole form is full and fair, without the humps and hollows of the old 

 fine-bowed craft with full quarters, the timbers are easily cut or bent, 

 and all of the fore and aft members, the clamps, plank sheers, wales 

 and planking, come into place easily and with little bending and dis- 

 tortion of the wood. The present model, whose lines and sail plan 

 appeared last week, is no exception from the general rule in this 

 respect, and is excellently adapted to the wants of the amateur, giving 

 a most serviceable boat when completed, and offering no special 

 difficulties in the construction. „ 



The scantling which we give will undoubtedly seem light to those 

 unaccustomed to mod -rn building, and there are many of the old 

 class of hoatbuilders who, if called on to build, will at, once propose to 

 double all of our sizes; but if the work and material are as good as 

 they should be in a small pleasure boat, there need be no fear of the 

 strength We may say to those unfamiliar with light work that the 

 present scantlings" for an 18ft. boat are heavier than some ot the 2if t. 



r *Res^onahly light weight is of importance in any small craft unless 

 intended for fishing, lightering or the roughest class of work, and 

 every effort toward it should be made, in proportioning all parts to 

 the wo' k they must bear, in selecting only the best of material, in 

 fitting every joint to a perfect bearing &■ d in using plenty of fasten- 

 ings screws or riveted nails, and setting them in the most careful 

 manner. Strength can never be obtained through the use of inferior 

 wood in large pieces and held by few and cheap fastenings, while this 

 method involves a weight which is fatal to a boat, even if she be in- 

 tended for ci uising and general use rather than racing. The follow- 

 ing sizes are given on the assumption that no sappy, grain-cut or 

 knotty wood will be used, that the clamps, planksheera and wales, 



with mo»t if not, all of the planking, will be in single lengths, and that 

 every joint will be carefully fitted and fastened. 



SCAHECROW — TABLE OF SCANTLING. 



18ft l w.l. 15ft. 4in. l.w.l. 



Inches. Inches. 



Keel, sided 6 5 



moulded 1-%M 



Stem, sided 2 



moulded 3^ 3 



Keelson, sided 2 \% 



moulded 4}4 4 



Frames, *sided % §4 



moulded 1J4-1-M l-%r% 



spaced 9 r iM 



Floors, sided 1 % 



Clamp, sided V4- 7 A ^A-% 



moulded 2-1W W-W 



Deck beams, sided , % % 



moulded 1M 1J4 



Planking % \& 



Deck M % 



Coaming % % 



*Two frames at mast, the frame at runner plate and each bulkhead 

 frame will be sided l^in. in the larger boat and l^in. in the smaller. 



The first step in the construction will be the "laying off" of the lines 

 full size on the floor: if the floor is rough and dirty, common roll 

 detail paper or even the cheapest kind of roll building paper may be 

 tacked down The waterlines in the sheer plan, and the stations, will 

 first be drawn in, using a chalk line and straight-edge, then from the 

 table of offsets given last week, the various curves of the keel, stem, 

 half deck, waterlines and sections will be laid down. All of this work 

 is best done to the outside of the planking, though it is quite common 

 to consider the inside only; however, the builder's chief aim is to get 

 the outside, not the inside, of the boat, like the design, and this is best 

 done by laying down the outside of the boat, just as she will be when 

 completed. 



The main rabbet, line is then drawn on the stem in the sheer plan, 

 being the intersection in the half-breadth plan of the various waterlines 

 and the line representing the half-breadth or thickness of the stem, 

 each of these various intersections being squared up to its correspond- 

 ing waterline on the sheer plan. A mould for the rabbet is then made, 

 of J4or%in. pine. The inner rabhet line is not shown in the plans, 

 but may be drawn in by laying off the thickness of the planking on 

 each of the waterlines in the half-breadth plan, and noting the inter- 

 section with the side of the stem. The details of this work are very 

 fully given in "Canoe and Boat Building for Amateurs," and are too 

 lengthy to reproduce here. 



For building with steamed frames special moulds will be needed, one 

 at each alternate station, or at 0, 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14; fewer moulds 

 are often used, but the work is more difficult for the amateur and the 

 results are apt to be less satisfactory, and in the end the time of mak- 

 ing a couple of extra moulds will be well saved. In laying down, the 

 waterlines of the half breadth plan and the diagonals may be run in 

 from the table of offsets with a long flexible batten, then the true 

 widths on these lines at each station may be laid off on the body plan, 

 marking each width on the edge of a thin wide batten laid on the floor 

 and transferring it. to its proper place in the body plan. As a result 

 the lines in each of the three plans should show fair and true, very 

 slight departure from the original spots being necessary. A certain 

 amount of error in enlarging eight times, as in the present case, is in- 

 evitable; but the original drawing was carefully made, and the lines on 

 the floor should show very fair if carefully laid down. 



The thickness of the planking must now be deducted from each of 

 the sections in the body plan for which a mould is needed; a line being 

 drawn %m. (Hjin. for the smaller boat) inside of the section. The 

 moulds will be cut out of lin. pine or other soft wood, to the outline of 

 the inner line, and properly braced together and jogged to fit across 

 the keel. 



The keel should be of clear, straight-grained white oak, the grain 

 running so that any edge points aft. The widths of the keel vary, 

 being greater amidships, as shown, and diminishing toward each end. 

 The thickness is also diminished from Sta. 7 aft, being lin. extreme 

 thickness, % at the rudder post and % at the transom for the 18ft. 

 boat. The stem should be cut from a knee or crook of hackmatack or 

 oak, sound and solid at the head where the jibstay is secured. It will 

 be marked out from the sheer plan, the rabbet marked and partly cut, 

 and the sides outside the rabbet beveled away to a thickness of about 

 J^in., leaving some wood for the final finishing The upper 6in. at the 

 stem head is usually left square, to be beveled away after the gam 

 mon iron, If one is used, is in place. 



The construction of the centerboard or fin trunk is somewhat 

 unusual, and was devised to fit these little boats; in place of the 

 usual bedpieces just the length of the trunk, one piece of oak plank is 

 used, the lower side cut to fit the curve of the keel, and running as 

 far forward and aft as its depth will admit. The. depth shown is 4*4 

 in., the thickmss being 2in. and the length over 12ft., thus stiffening 

 the middle half of the keel very effectively and compensating for the 

 small Size of the keel itself. This combination keelson and bedpiece 

 is fitted to the keel, canton flannel soaked in thick paint being laid 

 between the two, and the keel is fastened with screws, nails or 

 through bolts to it; then the stem is fitted and a few fastenings put in 

 to hold it, and an "anchor stock" of oak. lin. thick, is fitted, as 

 shown, over the joint of keel, keelson and stem, and fastened by 

 through rivets. In a larger craft it would be desirable to continue 

 the keelson further aft. at least beyond the rudder trunk, but in 

 the two sizes under consideration it is not necessary. 



The frame may now be set up on the stocks and shored to the exact 

 curve of the keel in the sheer plan. The moulds are next fitted and 

 shored in their proper positions, the spacing being marked on the keel 

 from the drawing on the floor before the kV-el is set up. The moulds 

 must be so placed as to leave room for the bent frames beside them. 

 The last section shown, at 8in. abaft Sta. 14, may be solid, of %in. 

 oak, and should be shaped w T ith special care, as it will be left per- 

 manently in the boat. It will make frames, floor and deckbeam iu 

 one, the round of the deck being worked on the upper side; and when 

 fitted will be screwed to the keel strongly. If its exact shape and 

 bevel be determined, either by laying it off on the floor or by battens 

 sprung over the moulds after they are in position, it will be a great 

 aid in getting out the sternpiece or tramsom. 



The transom is not made square across, but the after face has lin. 

 of round athwartship; it must, however, be worked perfectly straight 

 on the line of its rake, that shown in the sheer plan aud the sectional 

 drawing of the sheer. In some cases the round has been omi ted, 

 giving a square, homely look to the stern; and in others, through lack 

 of care, the piece has been rounded in all directions, a very unship- 

 shape proceeding. 



This piece is best worked out of a solid block of oak or mahogany, 

 one of the flat sides being first dressed to the required round, lin. in a 

 breadth of 18in., a mould being first swept out to this curve. When the 

 after side is thus properly shaped, the block may be set up on the keel 

 at the proper angle, and jogged down over the keel, as indicated in the 

 construction plan. While temporarily secured in this position, the 

 true outline of the pitce may be determined by means of battens run 

 over the moulds and the solid frame aft, the piece fr-st being rough- 

 ed out and then, using a batten constantly, the exact outline and 

 the correct bevel being obtained, so that, every plank will fit fairly and 

 neatly to it, and the whole counter will be symmetrical. The piece 

 must be left wide enough for the curve of the deck at the center 

 After the outside and edges are finished the inside may be hollowed 

 out, leaving at least an inch of thickness all over. 



The laying off of this piece so that it may be cut directly from the 

 solid block is a rather difficult matter for the amateur; but by pro- 

 ceeding in this way, first working the round of the after side, then 

 fitting to the keel at the proper bevel, and then completing the shape 

 by battens running fairly over the last three or four moulds, a very 

 good job may be made. If several boats are to be built from the 

 design, it will pay to use one large block, from which a number of 

 pieces, say lj^in. thick, and of the correct curvature, may be cut at 

 one time by a band saw, thus saving labor and waste of material, as 

 much les-i wood will be used than if each piece be worked from a 

 separate b'ock. In some cases a solid block is fastened to the keel and 

 worked to shapa, but this involves much useless weight in the worst 

 possible place, and the construction given is greatly superior. 



After the transom is in place it is screwed to the end of the keel and 

 a piece of oak lin. thick is fitted, standing vertically on the keel and 

 running fore and aft between the solid frame mentioned and the tran- 

 som, both being screwed to it and giving very great strength to the 

 whole end of the counter with a moderate weight of wood. 



The frame and mouids being now in place, some rough ribbands are 

 needed, of the full length of the boat and as stiff as will just bend 

 easily over the moulds, say lin wide and %in. thick. They may be of 

 any wood, but should have no knots or chi cks S'~> bad as to make them 

 bend unfairly. The frames proper will be of clear, straight-gramed 

 oak or elm, (he sidina-, or width in a fore and aft direction, beingj^iu. 

 for the 18ft. boat and for the smaller size; but the two fraotes 

 adjoining the mast, the frame for each bulkhead, and that at the run- 

 ner plates, will be sided lJ4in and lj^in. respectively as extra strength 

 is needed at these points, and the frames are cut by larger fastenings. 

 The moulding of the frames, the depth, will be lj^in. at the heels, lin. 

 at the turn of the bilge, and but %in. at the head, the smaller sizes 

 being diminished in proportion The sweep of the sections js so easy 

 that but one timber block will be required, and this will be made to a 

 little sharper sweep than the midship frame, Sta. 7, 



The timbers will be steamed well and bent on the block while hot^ 

 then each will be taken in turn and beveled to fit the ribbands at tb« 



SECTIONS OF BULB FOB 15FT. 4>£lN. L.W.L. BOAT. FULL 8TZJ3. 



SECTIONS OF BULB FOE 18FT. L.W.L. BOAT, FULL SIZE. 



proper position, fitted to the keel, its curve straightened until just 

 right, aud set in place, being held by wire nails through each ribband. 

 A very good plan for holding the bent frames to the ribbands in small 

 boats and canoes is to use, in place of nails, a short piece of annealed 

 iron wire, say ! 16 in. diame'er or under, which may be passed around 

 the two and its ends twis ed togetbe The wire is very cheap, and in 

 re aoving a ribband each loop is cut with the pliers in less time than 

 a nail can be drawn. 



The heels of the two pair of Lul head timbers End those between them 

 abreast the centerboard slot (which has not yet been cut) will be 

 mortised about %in. into the keelson, the hf els of the other timbers 

 will butt against the keelson and be nailed to it and the keel. On the 

 frame just forward of the fore bulkhead i< a cross floor, which passes 

 through a mortise or jos in the keelson. A similar cross floor may be 

 worked just against each bulkhead on its inner side, but will hardly 

 be necessary. 



The absence of cross floors of oak or of iron knees is a feature of 

 this boat which would hardly be admissible in a larger craft; but the 

 two bulkheads, in connection with the half bulkheads to be described, 

 have been designed to provide against any possible weakness in this 

 direction. 



T e heels of all the timbers should be well fastened to the keel with 

 clinch nails or riveted nails and burrs, and the keel itself may be fur 

 Cher strengthened by a thro iah holt of 3-16 rod from edge to edge, at 

 each end of the slot. Cross floors of lin. oak are worked on two 

 frames in the after compartment, as shown, the floor already men- 

 tioned crosses the keel just ahead of the fore bulkhead, and on the 



