April 7, 1894.] 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



were positive when we started Of a continuance of favor- 

 able weather. 



Lake Superior is a capricious monster, a veritable womb 

 of storms. Zephyr breezes are soon turned to hurricanes, 

 and gentle waves" form in foaming crests with a sudden- 

 ness that would inevitably shatter the most substantial 

 fabric. 



Every minute the wind was increasing and the waves 

 rolling higher. Soon tbe white caps were tumbling on 

 every curving ridge, and as the boat rode into the battling 

 surges it would fall with a decided thump, and the water 

 fly from the sides with a stubborn spitefulness. The late 

 was evidently becoming enraged, making it harder and 

 harder every minute for the toilers at the rowlocks. Man- 

 fully stuck the half-breeds to their work, and after an 

 hour's incessant and vigorous rowing we rounded into 

 lovely Bachewauaung Bay and a good harbor, with the 

 pattering rain at our heels. As violent as the indications 

 were for a tempestuous storm, it, fortunatly for us, veered 

 to the southeast, giving us only the fringe of it in a small 

 shower. That ended the pursuit of the carmined beauties 

 for the day, for we remained at our quarters during the 

 afternoon drawing consolation from our books and the 

 cribbage board, which were ever enjoyable. 



Indications of a change in the heated term which had 

 continued for the past week were now quite manifest, as 

 cooler weather and a somber sky liad fully developed. This 

 would evidently improve the fishing, for the lake, during 

 the reign of the sultry weather, had been as smooth as a 

 parlor floor, scarcely a tinkling cat's paw being observ- 

 able, and that only during the morning and evening 

 breezes. 



A boy from the lighthouse, that evening after supper, 

 set a gill-net in the bay in our immediate vicinity for the 

 capture of herrings, as he stated, but we presume if a 

 spotted trout got ensnared it would hardly be liberated, 

 particularly if it were marketable as to size, for down to 

 the fishing station near by it would go for its value in 

 ducats. OhI these pot hunting Indians; what fearful 

 raids they have made the past few seasons on this beauti- 

 ful and delicious fish! Tons upon tons of them have 

 gone to the Chicago market, where they sell for about 50 

 or TO cents per pound. The Fish Commissioners at both 

 the American and Canadian "Soo's" pay no attention 

 whatever to it, satisfied to keep their eyes closed to the 

 defiant piracy. Julian Ralph in Harper's Monthly says: 



"1 find that on both shores of the lake there is a grow- 

 ing feeling that, in spite of the millions of 'fry' the Fish 

 Commission dumps into that and the other lakes, the vast 

 resef voirs of delicious food are being ruined by the same 

 policy and the same methods that make our lumbermen 

 the chief criminals of the continent. Men who have 

 Spent years on the lakes solemnly assert that not only are 

 the annual yields becoming smaller and smaller, but that 

 the sizes of the fish ate growing less and less. Worse yet, 

 they assert that illicit practices, or those which he made 

 illicit, result in the Catching and destruction of millions 

 of fish which are too small to market. 1 do not believe 

 that any man of leisure could find a more benevolent 

 Cause in which to enlist than, in that of a crusade against 

 the iise of smali-meshed nets in Lake Superior. I will 

 hot, on my present knowledge* say that the planting of 

 fish fry is a waste of time and energy, but it certainly is 

 Regarded by many as ineffectual in the present crisis. 

 (Government had better direct its energy to that ounce of 

 net^cutting that is better than a ton of fry. 



"At present there are trout a-plenty in the streams that 

 flow into the great lake through the beautiful forests 

 which clothe that enormous tract, in which, south of 

 Superior alone, there are said to be between 500 and 600 

 little lakes. Exactly like it, from the sportsman's point 

 of view, is the region north of the lake, where the land 

 looks, upon a detailed map, like a great sponge, all glis- 

 tening with water, so crowded is its surface with lakes 

 and streams." 



Early the next morning the young half-breed was on 

 the lake with his boat, lifting his gill-nets, but the finny 

 harvest did not pan out to his entire satisfaction, as he 

 only had eight herrings and a lot of perch and suckers, 

 the two latter being disdainfully thrown upon the bank. 

 I asked why he did not return them to the element, and 

 in reply he stated they were dead when taken out of the 

 net and that to throw them back would drive the fish 

 away, and this is the belief of every Indian and half-breed 

 along the shore; and further, they will not even put any 

 vessel in the lake near their nets in which fish have been 

 washed. 



When the young half-breed passe 1 our quarters he gave 

 our boys three of the herrings which he had cleverly 

 cleaned, and in such a thorough manner had the work 

 been done that not a bone remained in them. The back 

 bone had simply been deftly taken out with the other 

 bones adhering to it. We had them — the herrings— for 

 our breakfast, and I must confess they were almost as 

 toothsome as the delicious trout of the* pellucid pool. I 

 now looked with more favor on this much abused fish, 

 for I had always shared in the general bel ief that they 

 were entirely too bony for. the table. Ned remarked, 

 when at breakfast, with a humorous twinkle in his eye, 

 as he lifted one of the browned fish to his plate, "We 

 came for trout, but it looks very much as if netted herring 

 were to be the substitute." 



"Be patient, gentle angler, till we have reached the 

 golden beds where abideth the peerless fish of the painted 

 tins and spotted sides." 



"How far hence lieth this royal bed of rose-colored 

 beauties? " 



"About fifty miles; far beyond the famed river called 

 Aeuawa." 



"Would we were there now." 



Aud then we sighed in unison, and sighed deeply at 

 that, for this land of promise, but with the prospect of an 

 adverse change in the weather, as well as an adverse 

 breeze, it was just then impossible to make the advance, 

 and so we concluded to await the arrival of tbe tug Annie 

 Clarke, in order to secure some mail matter we were ex- 

 pecting. We were evidently anchored for another day. 



After breakfast, we crossed to the island opposite, 

 which was about three miles distant, in expectation of 

 inducing some hungry or inquisitive trout to investigate 

 our lures. Here again we found the wind blowing to 

 such an extent that it was hard work to satisfactorily lay 

 our flies upon the water. We, however, received a rise 

 or two from some of the juvenile class, but failed to im- 

 pale them. Every minute the wind was increasing and 

 the white horses gaily topping the waves, while the rocky 

 shore was one mass of creaming foam. 



"The sky looks black around, around, 

 The sky looks black around; 

 And he that would be merry, boys, 

 Come haul his boat a-ground." 



Ned suggested an immediate retreat, as there was 

 strong evidence in the sombre masses of clouds scudding 

 low and swiftly, of an approaching storm. The warning 

 was one to heed, and in consequence word was given to 

 hoist sail and let her slide for the fishing station on the 

 opposite side. The boys turned to with willing hands and 

 soon the sails were in position , and when the stiff breeze 

 filled them we fairly flew over the racing waves, lifting 

 the water in dazzling snows and gracefully tossing the 

 foam bells from her plunging bow. It had become a wild 

 and wicked sea in a very short time and bade fair to test 

 the sailing capacity of our Mackinac long before we would 

 reach the distant shore. She, however, behaved most 

 handsomely, gallantly riding the rolling, roaring, angry 

 waves and bringing us into harbor without shipping a 

 single sea. 



As it was two miles from here to the camp, and the 

 wind was in rur teeth, and nothing but disagreeable tack- 

 ing would take the boat there, we concluded to anchor 

 her here and tramp the distance through a dense wood 

 to our quarters. The storm which had been threatening 

 when we started was now fast becoming one in reality, 

 and it was indeed questionahle whether we would reach 

 camp before the vapor clouds dissolved and the silver 

 drops pattered. The wind was also assuming a fierceness 

 that wildly tossed the overhanging boughs and made the 

 forest roar and crack, while "the thunder winged with 

 red lightning and impetuous rage" lent assistance to tbe 

 elemental warfare. In addition to this it was intolerably 

 sultry, the road rough and stony, and the walking, as a 

 consequence, very toilsome. Soon a few drops of rain fell, 

 then a brief cessation, and by the time we reached camp 

 Jupiter was about ready to again open his floodgates and 

 deluge, the parched earth. Observing our tents in a fair 

 way of going to sea over the bluff from the unruly winds, 

 Ihey were at once strengthened, and no sooner was it done 

 than the storm broke with terrific violence, giving us a 

 heavy downpour, 



"Foul with stains 

 Of gushing torrents and descending rains," 



The heavy shower continued for about an hour and 

 then it fretted itself away to the mutter of distant thunder. 



With the disappearance of the storm the air began to 

 grow quite chilly, and then a heavy fog arose that envel- 

 oped both land and sea in the misty vapor. It was a 

 dismal picture, all the delicious charms of the lovely bay 

 and its surroundings having suddenly disappeared in the 

 dense masses of cloudy dampness. The wail of the waves 

 sounded as audible and dreary as the very groans of nature 

 itself; cold winds constantly sighed o'er the bare scarps 

 of the low cliffs in our immediate front; the trees, thick- 

 ets and the bending grasses were all beaded to the full 

 with the dripping moisture; in fact, everything was dull 

 and blotted with humidity; not even the shrill scream of 

 a white-winged gull was heard, nor the tender note of a 

 robin broke the dismal solitude that prevailed. 



After the radiance and softness of a summer morn, 

 marvelous in gold and crimson tints, this sudden plunge 

 into an abyss of dreary gloom was not without its de- 

 pressing influence. Ned whistled and sang to keep his 

 courage up, but the notes were only half-hearted, more 

 mournful than melodious. We, however, wore the long 

 hours away with the excitement of cards, the reading of 

 fiction and the discussion of varied topics until supper was 

 served under our tent. 



The tug we had expected during the day did not arrive, 

 owing doubtless to the storm and fog, so we took on a 

 good stock of patience that night when we retired, hoping 

 to hear more favorable news in the morning of the over- 

 due boat. 



The dawn disclosed a heavy fog with the sun endeavor- 

 ing to penetrate through the vaporous masses. It was a 

 very favorable indication and our hopes for clearing 

 weather ran high. Another straw of importance to this 

 effect was noticeable in a spider's gossamer web that had 

 been spun with "thread of the finest tether" during the 

 night, on a tall bush in front of pur tent, and which 

 looked like a delicate piece of lovely frosted silver work 

 as it swayed to and fro in the morning breeze. Mr. Spider 

 is evidently a weather prophet, and would never have 

 worked his airy loom if rain had threatened. 



Soon as breakfast was over we sent the boys down to 

 the fishing station for the anchored boat, while Ned and 

 I strolled over to the rocky beach and surveyed the 

 waves as they beat against the iron-bound shore. 

 In a brief time the fog began to rise and fade away, 

 and then the blue above appeared in its regal beauty, 

 while the bright sun once more poured its golden 

 libations o'er the woods and waters. The hills gleam out 

 as clear cut as crystal against the sky; the valleys charm- 

 ingly recede in hazy softness, while the gentle wind once 

 more sways the sable plumes of fir and balsam and plays 

 with the tall pine tops. 



A steamer's whistle is now heard and then a small 

 tug comes in view and heads for the fishing station. It 

 is evidently the missing tug which has had a hard night 

 of it wandering aimlessly around in the heavy fog. 



About noon the boys returned with the boat, bringing 

 us a big package of letters and papers which they had 

 received from the long-looked-for tug. 



The afternoon developed into one of infinite loveliness, 

 which we enjoyed in reading our delayed mail and in 

 luxurious idleness. Myriads of flies drawn from their 

 secluded retreats by the warmth of the sun's bright rays 

 were drying their tiny wings and warming their round 

 bodies as they soared and flashed in the golden glow. 

 Some were in sombre colors, others bore aureate hues on 

 their gossamer drapery, while many there were as black 

 as night, or painted with "olives dark as the midnight 

 tree" and as coarse-robed as of "beetle stamp." What 

 a strange fascination there was about them as they 

 swarmed around our tents with their bulging eyes and 

 their slender shapes. It was but a brief time, however, 

 before our admiration and observation were turned to 

 denunciation, for the piratical species which had collected 

 in great clouds on every side of us began their vam- 

 pirish tricks of painful boring and cruel blood sucking, 

 and then there was a scamper and a hasty anointing | 

 with the powerful repellent. This held them at bay , 

 until it was thoroughly dried and then another attack 1 

 and another anointing, and so on till bedtime, when the 

 protective mosquito bar completely baffled them, 



The next morning at 6 o'clock we left Bachewauaung 

 Bay with a balmy air blowing mild and glad through the 

 bending trees and o'er the rippling lake. It was really 

 one of those elemental conditions, surprisingly delicious, 

 an earthly joy that one is prepared to demand in Pa,ra- 

 dise. We sailed along as if 



"in a magic dream, 

 By shadowy wood and crystal stream, 

 By mountain peak and forest dell, 

 Where fawns and fairies love to dwell." 



Rounding the lighthouse point we skirt along a low- 

 cliff ed shore that is wooded to the very edge for at least 

 two miles, and then are at charming Pancake Bay, with 

 a stretch of eight miles to the opposite shore. We made 

 the crossing in about an hour and a half to the tinkling 

 cadence of the snowy spray as it fell and raced from the 

 bow in fan-shaped ripples. Now we reach a rugged shore 

 that assumes the picturesque, and which changes as unex- 

 pectedly as the pictures presented by a revolving kaleido- 

 scope. Rounded forms of granite, gneiss and other 

 igneous rockt>, massive and grand, generously line the 

 coast. It is an impressive and bold, formation that runs 

 ragged and serrated, with gravelly beaches here and 

 there, and then again, a small islet or two of aged and 

 well-worn granite in a variety of tints, comes into view 

 with a grace of irresistible attractiveness. Scarred cliffs 

 of a dreary and interminable gray look sternly down upon 

 us, while, as if to brighten the scene, clusters of birch and 

 balsam, cedar and pine, give vividness and relief to the 

 weather-stained and lichen-covered rocks that almost con- 

 tinually form the shore. 



Reaching Maimase, we are amid the most impressive 

 scenery, which continues till we come to the harbor at the 

 point where a fishing station has recently been located, 

 and which very materially detracts from the magnificence 

 of the islands so attractively clustered here. Unsightly 

 shanties and rude store houses now stand where formerly 

 lovely groves were in regal mantle of living green. 



The breeze is now fast giving way to the burning orb, 

 the sails scarcely fill, and the tinkle from the bow is a 

 mere whisper. Overhead the silvery skies are beautiful 

 with tiny snow-banks that float and mingle with a grace 

 of motion that is poetry itself, while the gentle air from 

 the deep woods is laden with balm on its wings that intoxi- 

 cates with the very essence of health. 



The half-breeds look ominously at the half -filled sails, 

 shake their heads and sigh, and inwardly count the pros- 

 pective hours of toil; still we move lazily by rocks and 

 reefs, by points and promontories, by lovely coves and 

 retreating bays, by ragged cliffs and towering mountains., 

 until the old sails are lifeless. 



Then the boys take to the oars, and again we move with 

 an increased speed that gave us hope of reaching our des- 

 tination a few hours before sunset. 



Ned, tired of idling, concluded to try the silver spoon 

 for the capture of a Mackinac trout, and so overboard 

 went the deceitful lure that span with the revolving regu- 

 larity of clock-work. He patiently waited for a strike, 

 and when within about a mile of the twin sisters, or split 

 rock as some call it, an aroused Mackinac dropped on the 

 bright lure like a" panther on his prey, and then the 

 braided twine was gathered in, hand over hand, with an 

 astonishing swiftness, and when the proper time to boat 

 him came he was swung with a surprising swiftness to 

 the bottom of the craft that must have about deprived 

 him of his remaining senses. 

 "He will do for the pot," says the troller. 

 "Ay, for the pot-hunter, too," I responded. 

 "Thanks." 



And then in deep silence and with a sardonic grin at 

 my malicious reference, he again had the silver spoon 

 whirling in the water, but he received no response, and 

 was fain to wind up when we were about to land. The 

 fish he had taken was a "shore Mackinac" and weighed 

 about 41bs. and was quite an acquisition to the larder and 

 would assuredly prove appetizing as a supper dish, for we 

 were both like hungry wolves, having had nothing but a 

 cold collation since morning. 



It was about 5 o'clock when we entered the channel that 

 divides the two islands, and in the course of an hour had 

 the camp in apple-pie order; and then supper was duly 

 served and hugely enjoyed, for there is nothing like a keen 

 appetite to give relish to the smoking viands. 

 Dry den felicitously covers the case when he said: 



"No poignant sauce she knew, nor costly treat; 

 Her hunger gave a relish to the meat." 



Satisfied that we were on good trouting grounds, we 

 concluded not to cross to the main shore for fishing till 

 the next morning. We had had unexampled sport there 

 the previous season and presumed it would be repeated 

 again; but Ned thought not, and pointing to some of the 

 implements for gill-netting and a few tepee poles which 

 had been left behind by some vandals said, "Were it not 

 for these evidences of the barbarians' recent visit we 

 would have had faith in it, but surmised they had netted 

 and fished out about every trout in the neighborhood." 

 This somewhat destroyed my confidence, and wishing to 

 disprove Ned's unfavorable prediction at once got my rod 

 and flies ready for action and went to the choicest places 

 around the islands and commenced casting, hoping to 

 lure and hang a trout or two. I worked incessantly for 

 nearly an hour, but not a rise did I receive, and then I 

 began to feel a convert to his belief. I hoped, however, 

 that the main shore would develop on the morrow a tribe 

 of the jeweled beauties eager to spring upon the flutter- 

 ing fly. 



The twilight hours were indicative of stormy weather, 

 and shortly after retiring Old Jove let loose his hosts and 

 rain fell in torrents, accompanied with vivid lightning 

 and heavy p»als of deep-toned thunder. To add to our 

 misery the gale brought down the tent, and the boys being 

 aroused by our resonant yells, came to our relief and 

 raised and strengthened the canvas with additional cord. 

 This little event, though somewhat disagreeable, was 

 heartily laughed over by all parties. Silence one more 

 reigning in camp we were soon in peaceful slumber, amid 

 the racket of the elemental battle that moaned ever and 

 anon like a frenzied beast. Alex. Starbuck. 



[to be continued.] 



The Forest and Stream is put to press each week on Tues- 

 day, Corresjioridence intended for publication should reach 

 us at the latest by Monday, and as tfiiwh earlier as practicably 



