802 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[April 1, 1894. 



Cruising in the Cy-Pres— 1893. 



(.Continued from Page $79.~) 



Wednesday July 12.— We were in no hurry to start, so took things 

 easily, and it was eight o'clock before we got under way. The breeze 

 wasligbt from N. W. and had been growing lighter for an hour before 

 we started, hut we thought we could stem the last of the flood tide, 

 and cross Quincy Bay before the turn, which would be about ten 

 o'clock, and then it would be a very easy matter to drop down on the 

 ebb to Hull, our next stopping place. We passed around the northern 

 end of Thompson's Island, about midway between Sunken Ledge 

 Beacon and Hangman's Island, where there is 10ft. of water at low 

 tide, our course being S. S E. by chart. The breeze gradually died 

 down till we could not tell whether there was any air stirring or not, 

 but as the water was as smooth as glass, we kept moving slowly along. 



The chart shows a very irregular depth of water over this course, 

 the figures for low water off Moon Island being 9ft. A short distance 

 further on there are three fathoms, then it shoals again to 9ft. and 

 quickly sinks to and 4 fathoms just before reaching Sunken 

 Ledge. We kept the lead going constantly all the way from Moon 

 Island to Sunken Ledge; partly because we had nothing else to do and 

 wanted to check our work by the chart, and partly by way of prac- 

 tice. We found the soundings exactly as they were marked on the 

 chart, allowing of course for the stage of water which was now about 

 full flood. 



Quincy Bay is a beautiful sheet of water, 214 miles long from Moon 

 Island to Nut Island on the S. E , and about 1% miles deep. It is well 

 protected from easterly winds by numerous islands and reefs, and the 



Island, keeping the island close to and on our port. We held this 

 course till we were past Sailor Island, the third of this little group, 

 where we turned south sharp round the end of it and at right angles 

 with our former course. We kept close to the edge of the island till 

 we came to two large piles, when we again turned to the east, pass- 

 ing between the piles. The channel from this point was more crooked 

 than before, but plainly marked by piles and brush, for the benefit of 

 steamboats that run up to Hingham several times a day; one of 

 which passedjus, going up, in this narrow channel. 



There was scarcely room for us, our boom just grazing the buoy or 

 mark on one side with not more than twenty' feet between us and the 

 steamer. This steamer and her mate caused us lots of trouble at 

 Hingham and for a few moments we afforded their passengers consid- 

 erable amusement. As we got up close to the docks we noticed that 

 one steamer was just getting ready to leave, and that the other was 

 lying in the channel just beyond waiting for her to get out of the way 

 that she might back round the end of the pier, so as to be ready to 

 start bow first when it should be time for here to leave. We kept well 

 over to the right, so as to be as much out of the way as possible, and 

 were just about to pass the first steamer when we ran aground on 

 what proved to be the edge of a deeply dredged channel. We took in 

 our sails at once and threw out a light kedge to prevent drifting on to 

 the dock should we suddenly work loose. 



While we were doing this the outgoing steamer left the dock, and, it 

 seemed to us purposely, ran close to us under a full head of steam, 

 her bigsidewheels churning the water into a froth. Her rapid motion 

 caused us to take a quick lurch toward her and brought our rail on 

 that side clos? to the water's edge. As she passed us in this helpless 



Hull Y. C. House. 



HULL — FROM OUR ANCHORAGE. 



shores are hilly and picturesque. There is an average depth of water 

 of 7ft. at low tide and a prettier place to sail of an afternoon would be 

 hard to find. 



The tide turned just as we passed between Hangman's Island and 

 Sunken Ledge Beacon, and we began to drift oft to the eastward of 

 our course, or in the direction of Nantasket Roads. We thought, the 

 ebb tide, would probably run pretty strong down both sides of Ped- 

 dock's Island, as the water wai from four to six fathoms deep all 

 around it, and that if we could squeeze past Nut Island we would find 

 the tide then setting us in the direction in which we wanted to go. We 

 therefore bore away to the south all we could and still clear the island, 

 but for some time it was very doubtful which would prevail, the wind 

 or the tide; and we were just debating whether it would not be best to 

 anchor where we were and wait for more wind, when the breeze began 

 to increase perceptibly and continued, from that on, to fan us gently 

 along. 



We ran close to Nut Island (which is not an island at all, but a com- 

 ical little hill on the extreme end of Hough's Neck, which separates 

 Quincy Bay from Hingham Bay), keeping in the shallow water be- 

 tween it and Pig Rock Beacon, so as to avoid the tide, which was run- 

 ning to the westward strong: when we got well over into the stream 

 of Weymouth Fare River we turned N.E. and ran directly toward 

 Hull, which was in plain view a little over two miles away As the 

 wind continued very light we headed for the center of the high land, 

 wishing to be carried through Hull Gut by the swiftly rushing tide 

 (We found afterward that t his was the correct way to do, as the best 

 anchorage is well to the eastward of the two big spindles shown on 

 the chart.) The sail from Nut Island is very delightful as we had 

 enough breeze to make us slip nicely through the still water, and the 

 tide being with us. we glided by the islands and land marks very 

 rapidly. We were surprised and delighted at the extent and beauty 

 of Hingham Bay and en joved the. quiet blue water and green rolling 

 hills. F. was full of early history of this region and had many inter- 

 esting things to say about nearly every prominent landmark. 



We reached Hull at 1 P. M. and dropped our anchor off the club 

 house of the Hull Corinthian Y. C. As I was expecting letters here, 

 we went on shore immediately, taking our water jug and market bas- 

 ket with us. We pulled up to the landing of the club house, but a big 

 sign telling us in language more forcible than polite to keep off, stared 

 us in the face, and we were forced to row quite a distance to the land- 

 ing at the old town. We hauled our dinghy up on the float and took 

 a look around us. The landing is at the end of the main street, which 

 winds around between two hills that rise quickly up from the water's 

 edge. The western one is almost completely covered with rather plain 

 summer cottages. They are close together and those on the water 

 front have long stairs leading down to the beach, where there are a 

 few bath houses. The eastern hill has very few houses ' on it and the 

 top is used as a signal station, where a square white flag over one of 

 similar size of black was flying. 



We walked up the main street a short distance and found a fountain 

 of good, cool water, that we were told was pumped from Hingman, sev- 

 eral miles away. We left our jug at a little booth near the fountain, 

 which was presided over by a tiny girl not more than eight years of 

 age. The post office is a little further up the street, and on the left- 

 hand side. It is a little one-story cottage kept by a very old woman 

 who had some knick knacks for sale. When I asked her if she had 

 any letters for me, she handed me a pile to look over and see for my- 

 self, remarking as she did so that that was the last mail. I told her I 

 was expecting to get a letter here, and possibly it had come by an 

 earlier mad, whereupon she handed me another pile, very like the first, 

 but much dirtier, from frequent thumbing. I was disappointed at not 

 finding anything, and. leaving my address, asked her to forward what- 

 ever might come to Plymouth or Provincetown. 



The walk from the landing to the stores was long and hot. There 

 was no breeze at all between the hills, but the sun searched out every 

 nook and corner, and the perspiration rolled from us. The greedy 

 store is on the right hand side of the street and over on the northwest 

 side of th« point. We could stand in the door of the store and see 

 George's Island and the Narrows Light almost immediately in from of 

 us. After laying in a stock of bread, butter, eggs, cherries and ginger 

 ale we trudared back to the fountain, where we fil ed our jug and 

 bought a glass of birch beer of the little girl at the booth to pay her 

 for taking care of the jug for us. We found we had all we could 

 carrv. and were glad to get down to the landing where we could drop 

 our burdens. 



We noticed on getting on board again that the barometer had fallen 

 quite a little and about 4 o'clock we had quite a squall from the north- 

 ward, with dark, lowering clouds and occasional spiteful burs'S of 

 rain. The wind was so strong that we thought it best to take down 

 our awning, which shook and flapped in a very disagreeable manner, 

 and were therefore forced to seek shelter from the storm in the cabin. 

 We had a hot supper at 6 o'clock, and were about to turn in when we 

 heard st rains of sweet music issuing from the club house. As the 

 rain had ceased we came out on deck and listened to the music for 

 about, an hour. It was very good, indeed, and we were close enough 

 to hear all the more delicate passages, and to join in the applause. 

 We were greatly annoyed by the swells from the passing steamers, 

 which ran quite' close *to us, and we decided if we ever came here 

 again that we would anchor off the landing at the foot of the main 

 street, where we would be more out of their way, and closer to our 

 base of supplies. We turned in about 9:30 and slept soundly and 

 quietly. There were occasional showers during the night, but none of 

 much violence. , 



Thursday, July IS — We were up at daybreak, and while taking our 

 morning wash on deck were treated to a most gorgeous sunrise, as 

 old Sol crept up behind the hill at whose foot we were anchored. We 

 made an early start, Hingham being our objective point, as we wanted 

 to take advantage of the younsr flood tide. The channel is crooked, and 

 we knew we would be liable to eet aeround. W e passed along close 

 to the west side of Bumpkin Island keeping a sharp lookout for the 

 red buoy midway between it and Crow Point, so that we should not 

 run on to Crow Point flats, where there is but one or two feet of water 

 at low tide. The wind was light but steady, just exactly right for an 

 exploring expedition, and it would take us anywhere we wanted to go; 

 while we were not obliged to tend sheets, but had all our time to de- 

 vote to navigating our craft iu the narrow channel. 



Crow Point, or Downer's Landing, is a high headland covered with 

 cottages. There is a large hotel near the docks with a covered walk 

 out to the pier. The steamers from Boston to Hingham stop here, 

 both coming and going. There are boat and bath houses, and the 

 place seemed to us a very attractive one. We ran close to the docks 

 and straight on past them to the black buoy near Ragged Island, 

 where we turned eastward and ran between the buoy and Chandler's 



condition, her big swells completely drenched us, and it took all of F.'fl 

 strength to keep the dinghy from coming bodily on board of us: for it 

 had drifted round broadside to us as soon as we h«d struck the 

 ground Just ahead of us there lay a tug and three or four mud scows 

 all hard aground. A dredge was at work close into the docks, deepen- 

 ing and widening the channel. As soon as the stage of water would 

 admit, the tug took a loaded scow out toward the open water to dump 

 it. and the crew of the dredge hauled one of the empty ones along- 

 side and began filling it with the black, odoriferous mud from the 

 bottom. 



In about half an hour from the time we went aground the tide had 

 risen sufficiently to float us. The wind and the tide both being fair, 

 we got the foresail on her and ran down past the end of the docks, 

 anchoring in 8ft. of water. After watching the dredge for a few min- 

 utes, we went on shore and inquired what time the next steamer 

 would leave, as we did not relish the idea of being aeain caught in the 

 narrow channel just as sh« was about to leave her dock. We wan- 

 dered about till half-past 9, when we returned to the yacht and got up 

 our mainsail. We set the jib in stops, and were just about to break 

 out pur anchor when we noticed that the crew of the dredge were 

 hauling another scow across the channel, and had a rope stretched 

 right in our course. 



We waited till thev had things fixed to their satisfaction and then 

 weighed anchor, breaking out the jib as it came up out of the water. 

 The breeze bad freshened somewhat, and we found we could just lay 

 our course clear of the ends of the dock and down the channel to the 

 first buoy or stake. We tacked back and forth, keeping in the channel 

 most of the time, and following the same course we bad come by, 

 although there was plenty of water for us anywhere, it being nearly 

 high water. We had a delighful sail back to Hull, the breeze freshen- 

 ing as we got further out into the more open water. We felt that we 

 had explored waters not commonly sailed in by the yachtsmen along 

 the coast, and this feeling of discovery, added to the charm of the 

 perfect day, made it, on the whole, one of the most delightful trips we 

 bad undertaken. On reaching Hull we dropped our anchor abreast of 

 the landing at the foot of the street— spread our awning and ate our 

 lunch. 



The weather had been fine all the morning, and as far as we could 

 see there was every indication that it would continue so, but the 



had of a change in the atmosphere was the rather sudden drop of one- 

 tenth of an inch in the barometer. There are two large beacons or 

 spindles off Hull that mark two rocks, the best anchorage for small 

 boats is to the eastward of these, as the tide runs less swiftly there 

 and the swells from the passing steamers are not so annoying. 



Friday. July 1U- — We arose with the sun and hurried our breakfast, 

 as we wanted to get out through Hull Gut before the tide began to 

 flow. The breeze was very light from northeast and we knew that if 

 we waited until the tide got to flowing that we could not beat out at 

 all. We weighed anchor at 5:45 and expected to find it slack water in 

 the Gut, but were surprised to find the flood tide already running 

 and to see how swift the current was. The tide 'ables gave 5-40 as 

 the time for low water and we were not more than ten minutes late, 

 if we were that much. 



We stood across the current on starboard tack and succeeded in 

 just clearing the point of Peddock's Island, although for a few 

 minutes it seemed as though we would have to go about and cross 

 the current again. We held on the starboard tack till well over to 

 Fort Warren (George's Island), when we went about and laid our 

 course to just clear the black buoy off Point Allerton, The breeze 

 was a little fresher as we got out from among the islands and the 

 seas were quite large, evidently the result of the squall we had had 

 the day before. The Cy-pres slid up and down the big rollers in a 

 very exhilarating manner, as the brisk breeze, drove us swiftly along. 

 We had studied the chart a good deal and thought we could find our 

 way into Cohasset without any trouble, but on hearing the entrance 

 to the channel we could not tell which buoys were inside and which 

 were outside of the rocks. We could see the breakers in several 

 places and did not dare to go in very close, fearing in the old sea then 

 running that we might strike. We therefore ran on by all the buoys 

 till very near to Minot's Ledge Light, when we went about and ran 

 back, picking up the buoys in turn and following the sailing direc- 

 tions as laid down in Stebbin's guide book. Shag Rock is a small 

 rocky islet plainly visible at all stages of water and the Glades House 

 is the only large building in sight on the left hand side of the harbor. 

 Keep the Glades House well open from Shag Rock till you pick up 

 the Bla f -k Buoy on Jack Rock, then port your tiller and run across 

 toward White Head. As we ran in before the wind we spoke to a 

 fisherman in a dory and he told us to pick up a white keg buoy near 

 White Head, which is the prominent kind on the right hand side of 

 the entrance as you go in. We found the mooring without any diffi- 

 culty and slipping the bridle over the hitts were at rest once more. 



I was anxious to hear from my family, so jumped into the dinghy 

 without changing my clothes and rowed ashore. I had on an old soft 

 felt hat, a flannel shirt, white cotton duck trousers (not very clean) 

 and "sneakers".on my feet. The shore along which I rowed was very 

 pretty, and wooded down to the water's edge. Numerous summer 

 cottages occupied the point of White Head, the grounds extending 

 back toward the village I was surprised to find a picturesque htt»e 

 harbor up at the village, completely landlocked, but unfortunately 

 dry at low tide. This little basin was full of sailing craft of all sizes, 

 from 15 to 30ft. long, all of the shallow centerboard type. There was 

 a little yawl of about 25ft. 1 w.l. that particularly pleased me, and I 

 spent some minutes rowing around her and admiring her beautiful 

 proportions. After landing I had a long walk up to the Post Office, 

 through a delightfully shady street. The fact that I was a stranger in 

 a strange country was impressed very forcibly upon me. I thought 

 to drop a postal card to my wife, but found on putting my hand in my 

 pocket that I had no purse, and furthermore I had no knife, no 

 trinkets, no finger ring.no scarf-pin, not even a scarf or a handker- 

 chief to exchange for a postal card, and was forced to turn away and 

 retrace my steps, not knowing a soul that would be wilting to lend me 

 even one cent. 



The exercise of pulling the dinghy to the village was a pleasure, but I 

 found it quite a different matter to pull back. The tide was running 

 up the channel like a mill race, and the old sea heaving in, helped on 

 by the breeze, made it very hard work. It was a good mile or more 

 from the dock to the yacht, and when I reached her I was nearly 

 played out, my hands were swollen and I was shaky in the legs. We 

 were anxious to get out of this open harbor or cove before night, so I 

 could not stop to rest, but got under way at once. 



We had to beat out against a sharp chop and swift tide and found it 

 very tedious doing so. Twice the breeze left us almost entirely, and 

 we thrashed and tumbled about amazingly till we turned back to 

 pick up the moorin again, when, just as we were ready to do so, we 

 got a puff and decided to try it once more. We finally managed to 

 creep out between the buoys we had passed when going in. and found 

 more wind as we stood off shore. We seemed to ride the waves much 

 better on the starboard tack so held on in a northwesterly direction 

 till we could clear Minot's Ledge on port tack. This made us sail over 

 two miles further than necessary, but, as we held a good wind off 

 shore, we thought that we gained by it in the long run. 



We rounded the breakwater at Scituate at 1:30, running over the 

 bar in a breaking sea. The harbor is small and well protected by an 

 artificial breakwater that runs in a S E direction from the old octag- 

 onal tower on the point. The channel is curved and narrow. After 

 rounding the end of the breakwater it follows back nearly parallel 

 with it and then turns in an easy curve off to the left and toward two 

 spindles or beacons— one of which is on either hand. The deepest 

 spot or pool is about two-thirds of the distance from the tower to the 

 beacons, and in it there is about 7ft. of water at low tide, and room 

 enough for ttiree or four boats to swing at their anchors. As we 

 rounded the end of the breakwater we noticed a good-sized schooner 

 at anchor and concluded that she was iu the pool, so ran down near 



SCITUATE MAIN STREET— LOW TIDE. 



barometer had dropped a tenth by noon. We took things pretty 

 easily after dinner; F. was below writing up the log, I was on deck 

 reeving a new pair of jib sheets and doing other little odd jobs, of 

 which there are so many on a yacht, when my attention was called to 

 a rushing sound to the eastward. Looking up from my work I saw a 

 white streak coming rapidly toward us, and in a moment we were 

 struck by a hard squall which slatted and banged our awning about 

 at such a terrific r«te that I called F. out on deck to help me furl it. 

 Near us lay a large catboat that had been out in the morning. The 

 owner had gone ashore without, furling the sail, leaving it down in a 

 heap on the cockpit floor. The wind caught this loose canvas and 

 threw the gaff up, then bl«w the whole sail overboard, where it 

 thrashed and whipped about in a frantic manner for some time before 

 the owner came out and secured it. 



There were several small boats out sailing and some of them had a 

 hard time of it. We were very sorry for two poor fellows who were 

 out in a skiff, over near Paddock's Island and heading toward us 

 They luffed up in the squall when it first struck, and finding that it 

 was "full of business," turned a reef in their single sail. They tried to 

 beat under this reduced rig, but could not make any headway at all 

 against the wind and ebb tide. After struggling against fate for afew 

 minutes they took down sail, mast and all, and began to row. By 

 this time the wind had kicked up quite a little chop m the channel, and 

 every sea flew clear over them. Ic was a long hard pull anda wet one, 

 but by persevering they finally got over to the club house landing. It 

 took fully an hour to accomplish in that wind what they could have 

 done in ten minutes with ease under ordinary circumstances. 



All the boats in sight turned in from one to three reefs, and even 

 then they had all they could stagger under. We were so close to the 

 landing that we lay in perfectly still water and enjoyed the fun. 

 Numbers of boats started out from the club house with parties on 

 board, but all wore oilskins or waterproofs of some kind. The wind 

 died down about 6 o'clock, and by sunset it was perfectly calm. There 

 was not a cloud in the sky of any kind, and the only indication we had 



her and dropped our anchor. We got into the dinghy immediately 

 and sounded all around, and found that we were just on the edge of 

 the pool, so got out our kedge and warped into a better position. 



About an hour before low tide we were astonished to see a fleet of 

 dories pull out past us into the shallow water just outside, the bar. On 

 inquiring what they were after we learned that they were "mossers' 

 and were raking moss of the edible kind. They had each a long- 

 handled rake and some of them had a long fork, They go out as far 

 as they can at low tide and work back with the incoming tide, pulling 

 the moss off from the rocky bottom as they go along. In two hours 

 they can gather about one barrelful, worth $3.50 when bleached and 

 dried. The women and children do their share of the work, washing 

 the moss, turning it over and over to dry and bleach, and gathering it 

 up in piles at night or before a shower, and covering it with canvas. 

 The gathering of this moss is the j>rineipal occupation of the sea- 

 faring folk during the summer months, and is, on the whole, a very 

 profitable one. We counted twenty dories in the fleet and all were 

 painted or decorated in some peculiar manner, so that they could be 

 easily recognized by any one at all familiar with them. 



We had not been in the harbor very long when a small schooner 

 about 27ft. long came down from the village and dropped anchor near 

 us. She was a dilapidated-looking craft, with dirty and torn sails and 

 a smashed taff rail. Her crew was made up of a man and his two 

 Bons. The father proved to be an old soldier, and was very talkai ive; 

 we invited him on board and he amused us for an hour telling about 

 his army experience and his adventures on the water. He purchased 

 the little schooner without knowing a single thing about sailing, and 

 his description of the various scrapes he got into was very funny. 

 After eating our lunch we went up to the village, a very quaint, old- 

 fashioned town, the principal street winding along the water. Hand- 

 some old residences are mixed in with fish houses and coal yards. 1 

 took several pictures of the town from the water and a few of the 

 surroundings of the harbor, 



[to be continued.] 



