402 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



|MAY 12, 1894. 



ON THE NORTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 



(Continued from Page S8S.) 

 The morning opened with the sun red as a rose, a 

 cloudless dome and a lake smooth as velvet. With this 

 condition of things elemental, fishing was not to be thought 

 of, and so we remained in camp. Ned, however, took his 

 turn for the big trout, but returned in less than an hour 

 without a single scale. I smiled as I questioned him about 

 having a rise, wondering if a miss demoralized him to the 

 same extent it did me. He had no rise, he stated, but 

 Peter, who had been wandering around where he was 

 casting, looked quite surprised when Ned answered in the 

 negative. That look satisfied me that Ned and I were 

 both playing at the same game of deceit and defense, so 

 intent were each of us to have the glory of capturing that 

 particular trout. It was an endeavor to create the im- 

 pression that the desired trout had vacated his quarters. 

 Rather foxy, but we both remained on the scent all the 

 same. 



It was not long before we became restless, and as the 

 sun-tipped pinnacles of the mountains confronting us 

 looked as if thev were in regions delightfully cool, we 

 concluded to make their ascent. Alpenstocks being 

 requisite, they were soon crudely made and then off we 

 started like explorers bold in the hot blazing sun as if for 

 the Matterhorn. We had hardly gone but a few hundred 

 yards before we were repenting of the hasty enterprise, 

 for it was along a tortuous path winding through thickets, 

 over fallen timber and by huge broken ledges and masses 

 of rock. Many of these detached blocks were riven and 

 split in all manner of forms and looked so gray and storm- 

 beaten as if they had lain here for untold ages. It was 

 over such disorganized masses we had to pick our way, 

 and so flint-like and sharp-edged we found them that 

 considerable care had to be exercised to prevent accident. 



Our ascent was necessarily slow and laborious, as we 

 frequently had to stop and rest in the grateful shade of 

 some towering pile or under the spreading branches of 

 some friendly tree. Unlimited numbers of the aged rocks 

 were delicately threaded and seamed by rich bands, while 

 others were deeply creviced from the interstices of which 

 sombre pines grow and bushes innumerable flourish. In 

 the dark shades, ferns, flowers and mosses abound to- 

 gether with trees of every variety, while down the hill- 

 Bides and over the rocks you occasionally see some ribbon 

 like brook purling along, seeking lake or river with which 

 to mingle. 



Ned, being of portly form, blowed like a porpoise and 

 perspired like a fountain as he clambered over these 

 confused heaps that looked as if they had been "split to 

 fragments in the mill of the centuries." 



After toiling until we were about breathless> we at 

 last reached the top, and thpn the grandeur, picturesque- 

 ness and beauty of the scene burst upon us with impres- 

 sive vividness. The lake so serenely quiet lay at our feet 

 like a vast and solid sea of quicksilver with the distant 

 islands in our immediate front gleaming akin to sapphired 

 gems. Here where the breeze is pure and fresh enough 

 to have come from the courts of Paradise, sunshine and 

 shadow are ever changing place and reveal each instant 

 along the mountain sides new wonders of soaring ridges, 

 jutting crags and rounded slopes, declining to pale depths 

 of winding ravines down whose shadowed sides crinkle 

 the narrow silvery hues like faint lightning on somber 

 clouds. Turn to the ragged shore line that curves around 

 the mountains' base, and there confront you grim and 

 tempest- worn cliffs that swim in a wonderful sea of color 

 as the sun and clouds play their frolicsome game of hide 

 and seek. Sweeping around, we face pinnacles of sullen 

 rock dim with ages of sun and storm, and then receding 

 valleyB and defiles are revealed in gorgeous splendor, and 

 here you see line upon line of misty-like bands that seem 

 to enrich some far away fairy land. Again let the vision 

 trace the wooded heights to the right and you realize the 

 sinuous course of Gravel River, and if your eyes are sharp 

 they will catch a glimpse of another silver-like rivulet 

 that is wandering through lovely groves to drop at last 

 with rippling lullaby into the bosom of the great lake. 

 Gaze where you will, nature is ever presenting some fresh 

 picture of indescribable beauty that for witchery of color 

 and mystery of shadow exist nowhere but in the moun- 

 tain region. 



* I feel with Ruskin, that "mountains are the beginning 

 and the end of all natural scenery; in them, and in the 

 forms of inferior landscape that lead to them, my affec- 

 tions are wholly bound up; and though I can look with 

 happy admiration at the lowland flowers, and woods and 

 open skies, the happiness is tranquil and cold, like that of 

 examining detached flowers in a conservatory or reading 

 a pleasant book." 



After a long rest, which the toilsome trip demanded, 

 Ned discarded the poetic and turned to the practical by 

 making a raid on some blueberry bushes which are quite 

 numerous here. After having gratified his appetite, with 

 the succulent berries, and again drank in the wild and 

 solemn beauty of the mountains, expressed himself ready 

 for the alpine descent which would be accomplished in 

 lesB time than the ascent and with less expenditure of 

 vitality. Without a moment's delay we started with a 

 rush down the sloping terraces, then along a narrow ledge 

 and anon sliding over some smooth faced rocks to meet 

 and breast our way through tangled thickets, where un- 

 ceremoniously we affrighted some lovely woodland war- 

 blers and sent a red squirrel scurrying as if his very life de- 

 pended on his swiftness. The rocky impediments- which 

 were the very ideal of nature's savagery required more 

 care and exertion to surmount, but when once over them 

 it was again onward with a rapid pace. One moment 

 we were hanging by tough-rooted bushes and then again 

 swinging arounds some saplings over a ragged ledge, and 

 as it to add variety, creeping or crawling over, as occa- 

 sion demanded, some fallen pine, or coasting on the smooth 

 surface of a rocky decline. 



Ned declared that my rheumatic knee must have been 

 restored to its normal condition, for I was dashing along 

 like a trained athlete. After numerous slips, a few 

 bruises and a serious tearing of garments, we reached our 

 quarters quite heated and well spent, and -just as the bovs 

 were ready to serve our dinner. J 



Our mountain trip had given us an excellent appetite 

 and when we were through with the meal the table 

 looked as if ^a terrific cyclone had ^struck it. It was 



simply a case'like"unto that of Esau, who at that'moment 

 would have sold his birthright for a beefsteak. 



About six o'clock, the weather showing a radical 

 change, we took to boat with evident intent of slaughter 

 in the house of S. fontinalis. We succeeded in the 

 murder of one of the royal scions of that famous house 

 and then beat a hasty retreat to camp to avoid a threat- 

 ened rainstorm which showed signs of immediate realiza- 

 tion. Our intrepid oarsmen, however, landed us safe in 

 harbor, barely escaping a hurricane blast at our heels. 



So hot and breathless had been the day that I was 

 satisfied we were to have a first-class storm without any 

 of the incidentals being omitted; one in which "the 

 heaven is all spray, and the sea all cloud, and that you can 

 see no further in any direction than you can see through 

 a cataract." 



Hardly had supper been disposed of before the advancing 

 hosts of Jove were heard. They came with low mutterings 

 and direful moans. The sky responded with a scowl and 

 its silver-edged fleeces took fright and raced to unknown 

 regions. The sea also answered, for its white teeth glit- 

 tered in an unmistakable language. Lightning, sharp and 

 vivid, painted itself upon the murky clouds and then the 

 deep toned thunder rumbled across the darkened sky. 

 The fierce and appalling batallions were all abroad and all 

 bent upon dire destruction. Like the notes of a chromatic 

 scale that run upward the storm king was advancing his 

 entire army. The heavens hearing the summons took on 

 a more sombre shade, the wind perceptibly increased, the 

 lightning flashed more rapidly and brilliantly, and the 

 thunder, 



"Enlarging, deepening, mingling; peal on peal 

 CruBh'd horrible, convulsing heaven and earth." 

 The battle is fiercely on, the whirlwinds gather addi- 

 tional force, the woods are torn, the sea leaps in fury and 

 bathes the rugged cliffs in white foam; lightning and 

 thunder are incessant, one glaring in lance-like names, 

 the other growling like a horde of savage and enraged 

 beasts. It is appalling in its intensity, making all cower 

 before it, and realize that 



"God moves in a mysterious way 

 His wonders to perform; 

 He plants his footsteps in the sea 

 And rides upon the storm." 



Our half-breeds now rush out from, their tent, and as 

 they pass our quarters ask for aid in securing the boat 

 which is being battered by violent waves in such a de- 

 structive manner as to soon reduce it to splinters. We 

 spring to the rescue and drag the boat high and dry. 



"This is one of 'em," said Ned, as we retreated to the 

 tent. 



"Ay, a dozen in one.'* 



The storm was now raging in boundless firry, the 

 heavens being one somber curtain aflame with sheeted 

 lightning; the sea one mass of creaming foam "which 

 hangs in ropes and wreaths from wave to wave" while as 

 it beat against the flinty shore vied with the detonations 

 of thunder for supremacy. The forests swayed and 

 groaned and twisted, and trees fell with a crash as if the 

 work of a. sulphurous bolt. Up among the loose disjointed 

 cliffs where "the thunder winged with red lightning and 

 impetuous rage" the storm Was infinitely appalling. Night 

 coming on apace, the dark drapery fell and the storm in- 

 creased in intensity, until finally nothing was heard but 

 the warring elements, and nothing seen but the lightning's 

 vivid glare. It was a fearful flight of storm, grand and 

 sublime beyond expression. To complete the elemental 

 battle, gushing torrents fell as if with deluge intent, and 

 long into the midnight hours Jove held possession, 

 affrighting all. Sleep came not during the terrible uproar, 

 for the very vibrations of the awful thunder were felt in 

 the earth's pulsations, and the lightning was so magneti- 

 cally sharp as to be seen with closed eyes. Ab I heard 

 the angry waters storming the massive intronchments 

 around our quarters, the wonder that the stanchest boats 

 are wrecked on this turbulent lake ceases to exist. Ah, 

 how often since have I thought of that ill-fated steamer, 

 the Western Reserve, the stormy night she left the "Soo" 

 and went down with the loss of all aboard, save one, who 

 alone was left to tell the sad tale of disaster. Evidently 

 nothing can long resist these terrible terhpests and if a 

 harbor is far distant to reach it is a contest for life. Many 

 a time in oUr little coaster have we earnestly struggled 

 for our haven from the gales which came racing after us 

 with such power and velocity as to send the waters whirl- 

 ing and "flying in rags and fragments from wave to 

 wave." I shudder to think of it 4 



The storm finally abating we dropped asleep, but when 

 dawn opened our eyes, the tempest of the night was our 

 only theme and it was an absorbing one. Ned and the 

 half-breeds were positive that the lightning had struck 

 near by during the night, for the very earth, they said, 

 trembled as if from an earthquake. I was also deeply in- 

 clined to the belief, for I never in all my experience on 

 the lake, encountered such a tempest of fire as prevailed 

 till the midnight hour. 



As a consequence of the heavy rain and a change in the 

 temperature, there was a dense fog over land and lake, 

 and to add to the unpropitiousness of the situation a 

 southeast wind was blowing in no gentle manner. I was 

 positive I would tempt no trout that morning, with such 

 adverse weather. 



Ned, thinking of making a victim of that particular 

 trout that had his home under the ledges of the outer 

 intrenchments of our quarters, sailed out for a trial of his 

 skill. He returned, however, in a short time, with his 

 hopes blasted and the statement of "nary a rise." 



After breakfast, despite the heavy fog, we tried the 

 little bay again, in expectation of capturing a few "beau- 

 ties of the gleaming stars," but we returned in a couple of 

 hours with the undesirable record of a mere cipher; a 

 "goose eggg" as the knights of the diamond have it. 



Alex. Stabbuck. 



[TO BE CONTINUED.] 



A NEW-SUBSCRIBER OFFER. 



A bona fide new subscriber sending us 85 will receive for that sum 

 the Forest and Stream one year (price $4) and a set of Zimmerman's 

 famous "Ducking Scenes" (price $5)— a f 9 value for $5. 

 This offer is to new subscribers only. It does not apply to renewals 

 For $3 a bona fide new subscriber for six months will receive the 

 Forest and Stream during ithat time and a copy of Dr. Van Fleet's 

 handsome work, "Bird Portraits for the Young" (the price of whiob 

 is 18) 



A SATIETY OF BASS. 



Ltrcrus and I started one morning the latter part of 

 July with State Line, Wis., for our destination, and Lake 

 Vieux Desert, five miles distant to the east from the sta.- 

 tion, our point of location. 



On this lake Levi Thomas had lived for forty years, 

 having carved his way into the wilderness when a young 

 trapper, subsequently marrying a squaw, by which act he 

 became a fixture in the country, the tribal laws binding 

 him to it, as is the case with all squawmen. A low order 

 of morals led and he abandoned civilization to cast his lot 

 with the Indians, who at that time were the only inhab- 

 itants of this tegion. As the years rolled by a group of 

 young half-breeds began to grow lip around him. He 

 erected quite a pretentious log cabin on the shores of 

 "Vieux Desert, cleared off and fenced in two or three acres 

 of land for a garden , and settled down to a life of indo- 

 lent ease varied only by the pursuits of his calling, which 

 he continued until the fur animals became so scarce as to 

 make it unprofitable as a business enterprise. About this 

 time adventurous sportsmen, loggers and cruisers, began 

 to go into the wilderness, lured by the prospect of sport 

 and wealth, as well as by the wonderful attractiveness of 

 the countless lakes that dot this region. With an eye for 

 the "almighty dollar" he erected another commodious log 

 cabin a short distance from his home for the use of those 

 whom business or pleasure called his way. To this spot 

 we were induced to wend our way, as it appeared from 

 all the information we could gain to be the only gateway 

 to the enchanting chain of lakes that extend west and 

 south, west of State Line Station for a distance of seventy- 

 five or a hundred miles, and it was this chain of lakes, or 

 a portion of them at least, that we wished to visit. 



Arriving at State Line we were met by Clark, a son of 

 Thomas, about seventeen years old, who was destined to 

 play a prominent part in the drama to be enacted during 

 the next week or ten days. He bundled us and our traps 

 into a big broad-wheeled lumber wagon drawn by a team 

 of Canadian ponies and we started on our five miles ride 

 through the woods to Vieux Desert. The experience was 

 a very novel one to us, for, spurred on by the lash which 

 was used unsparingly, the tough little ponies went helter 

 skelter over the roughest road I was ever on. We 

 bounced over fallen logs, into water holes, up hill and 

 down hill through the open woods, until I felt sore all 

 over. We arrived at our destination without broken 

 bones, but with badly demoralised anatomies. The sur- 

 roundings were very rough and unlike any previous 

 experience I had ever known, but we were well cared fot 

 and found our host's family very desirous of making our 

 stay with them pleasant. We had two sleeping rooms 

 off a large living room* each with a comfortable bed pn> 

 tected from mostiuitoes by canopies. With good bedSj 

 good food and plenty of room to move abou\ m what 

 more could we who were out on a roughing trip want? 



The Wisconsin Eiver rises in Lake Vieux Desert and it 

 is said to be the home of large muskallonge, but during 

 our visit the latter had closed up their house and gone to 

 a summer resort, at least, we could not find them at 

 home after repeated efforts to gain admittance to their 

 sanctum. Vieux DeBert is quite a large body of water, 

 nearly round, with an occasional deep bay or inlet, and 

 from six to eight miles in diameter, but it is very shal- 

 low and filled with weeds. These grow to within a few 

 inches of the surface, tarely appearing above it, and 

 form a mass of vegetable growth berieathj making it 

 almost impossible to pull a spoon through ii. 



Thursday, the 28th, I started out alone to try the mus- 

 kallonge. After working faithfully for several hours I 

 found myself at the most distant part of the lake from 

 the cabin, when I was startled by a violent clap of thun- 

 der, and in a few minutes a torrent of rain was descend- 

 ing upon me. Before I could reach shelter my clothing 

 was saturated and I was compelled to row seven mileB 

 through the downpour to the cabin. Clark started a roar- 

 ing fire in the big stove, and I spent the afternoon drying 

 Out. 



Friday we started on a hunting and fishing trip 1 , embark-' 

 ing in a boat. Clark rowed us across Vieux Desert to itis 

 furthest extremity. Here we found a blind trail leading 

 through the woods, which We followed for about a mile, 

 when we came to a beautiful little body of watef called 

 Bass Lake. It is about two and a half or three miles lofl^ 

 and from three-quarters to a mile wide, nestled in the 

 heart of the dense pine woods. Clark went to a clump of 

 bushes near the trail, where he had another boat con- 

 cealed; dragging it out, we entered and were soon on our 

 way to the hlad Of the lake, where Clark said the best 

 fishing was to be had. As it was yet early in the day we 

 anticipated sport, and our expectations were fully realized, 

 for business began at once. Within an hour Lucitis ana 

 I had taken 25 beauties, weighing from 2+ to 3flbs., and 

 then we ceased for the morning and explored the lake 

 until lunch time. Oh! but this is a wild spot round this 

 lake. There is no indication that the foot of man ever 

 rested upon its beautiful forest-bound shores, and Clark 

 tells me that but one angler previous to our visit had ever 

 cast line in its waters to hie knowledge. During the after- 

 noon we killed 42 bass, making 69 for the day, and, becom- 

 ing weary of the sport about 4 o'clock, started for home, 

 which we reached in time for supper. I was so charmed 

 with this lake that I decided to visit it again, so on the 

 way home I arranged with Clark for a tent and provisions 

 for two days, with the determination to return the next 

 day. 



We spent two more days here and had rare sport with 

 the bass. We caught them as fast as we could land and 

 return them to the water, for on this trip we kept only 

 what we could eat. It was impossible to keep supplied 

 with minnows in this kind of fishing, so we resorted to the 

 use of small spoons, which answered the purpose of bait 

 just as well, and were far more convenient. We caught 

 no small bass; they would run from 2} to 3£lbs. ; would 

 average about 31bs. We caught a great many more on 

 Saturday than we did the day before, but kept no account 

 of the number. I do not think the bass of these northern 

 lakes are as gamy as those taken in New York State or 

 the lakes of Maine; but they give the angler all the sport 

 he can reasonably ask for, and as for numbers, the East- 

 ern waters are not "in it." A very natural desire to rush 

 them when they strike, so that he may get numbers, 

 takes possession of the angler; so they do not have the 

 chance for their lives they otherwise would. 



I found Clark a very capable guide despite his age, and 

 after further talk with him and consultation with his 

 father, decided to take the trip of our outing, to the chain 



