FROM LONDON TO NEW YORK. 217 



the distance. The afternoon was dark and lowering, 

 and just before entering Conway we had a very strik- 

 ing view. A turn in the road suddenly brought us to 

 where we looked through a black frame-work of heath- 

 ery hills, and beheld Snowdon and his chiefs appar- 

 ently with the full rigors of winter upon them. It was 

 so satisfying that I lost at once my desire to tramp up 

 them. I barely had time to turn from the mountains 

 to get a view of Conway Castle, one of the largest and 

 most impressive ruins I saw. The train cuts close to 

 the great round tower, and plunges through the wall of 

 gray, shelving stone into the bluff beyond, giving the 

 traveller only time to glance and marvel. 



About the only glimpse I got of the Welsh charac- 

 ter was on this route. At one of the stations, Aber- 

 gele, I think, a fresh, blooming young woman got into 

 our compartment, occupied by myself and two commer- 

 cial travellers (bag-men, or, as we say, " drummers "), 

 and before she could take her seat was complimented 

 by one of them on her good looks. Feeling in a meas- 

 ure responsible for the honor and good breeding of the 

 compartment, I could hardly conceal my embarrass- 

 ment ; but the young Abergeless herself did not seem 

 to take it amiss, and when presently the jolly bag-man, 

 addressed his conversation to her, replied beseemingly 

 and good-naturedly. As she arose to leave the car at 

 her destination, a few stations beyond, he said, " he 

 thought it a pity that such a sweet, pretty girl should 

 leave us so soon," and seizing her hand the audacious 



