54 



CHARLES DARWIN 



between the character of the Spaniard and that of the Dutch 

 boer is shown, by the former never asking his guest a single 

 question beyond the strictest rule of politeness, whilst the 

 honest Dutchman demands where he has been, where he is 

 going, what is his business, and even how many brothers, 

 sisters, or children he may happen to have. 



Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's, one of the largest 

 herds of cattle was driven in towards the house, and three 

 beasts were picked out to be slaughtered for the supply of 

 the establishment. These half-wild cattle are very active; 

 and knowing full well the fatal lazo, they led the horses a 

 long and laborious chase. After witnessing the rude wealth 

 displayed in the number of cattle, men, and horses, Don 

 Juan's miserable house was quite curious. The floor con- 

 sisted of hardened mud, and the windows were without 

 glass ; the sitting-room boasted only of a few of the roughest 

 chairs and stools, with a couple of tables. The supper, al- 

 though several strangers were present, consisted of two huge 

 piles, one of roast beef, the other of boiled, with some pieces 

 of pumpkin : besides this latter there was no other vegetable, 

 and not even a morsel of bread. For drinking, a large 

 earthenware jug of water served the whole party. Yet this 

 man was the owner of several square miles of land, of which 

 nearly every acre would produce corn, and, with a little trou- 

 ble, all the common vegetables. The evening was spent in 

 smoking, with a little impromptu singing, accompanied by 

 the guitar. The signoritas all sat together in one corner 

 of the room, and did not sup with the men. 



So many works have been written about these countries, 

 that it is almost superfluous to describe either the lazo or 

 the bolas. The lazo consists of a very strong, but thin, well- 

 plaited rope, made of raw hide. One end is attached to the 

 broad surcingle, which fastens together the complicated gear 

 of the recado, or saddle used in the Pampas; the other is 

 terminated by a small ring of iron or brass, by which a noose 

 can be formed. The Gaucho, when he is going to use the 

 lazo, keeps a small coil in his bridle-hand, and in the other 

 holds the running noose, which is made very large, gener- 

 ally having a diameter of about eight feet. This he whirls 

 round his head, and by the dexterous movement of his wrist 



