CHAPTER VIII 



Banda Oriental and Patagonia 



Excursion to Colonist del Sacramiento-^-Value of an Estancia— Cattle, 

 how counted — Singular Breed of Oxen — Perforated Pebbles — Shep- 

 herd Dogs — Horses broken-in, Gauchos riding — Character of In- 

 habitants^Rio Plata— Flocks of Butterflies^-Aeronaut Spiders — 

 Phosphorescence of the Sea— Port Desire— Guanaco— Port St. 

 Julian — Geology of Patagonia— Fossil gigantic Animal— Types of 

 Organization constant — Change in the Zoology of America — Causes 

 of Extinction. 



HAVING been delayed for nearly a fortnight in the 

 city, I was glad to escape ort board a packet bound 

 for Monte Video. A town in a state of blockade 

 must always be a disagreeable place of residence ; in this case 

 moreover there were constant apprehensions from robbers 

 within. The sentinels were the worst of all; for, from 

 their office and from having arms in their hands, they robbed 

 with a degree of authority which other men could not 

 imitate. 



Our passage was a very long and tedious one. The Plata 

 looks like a noble estuary on the map ; but is in truth a poor 

 affair. A wide expanse of muddy water has neither gran- 

 deur nor beauty. At one time of the day, the two shores, 

 both of which are extremely low, could just be distinguished 

 from the deck. On arriving at Monte Video I found that 

 the Beagle would not sail for some time, so I prepared for a 

 short excursion in this part of Banda Oriental. Everything 

 which I have said about the country near Maldonado is ap- 

 plicable to Monte Video; but the land, with the one excep- 

 tion of the Green Mount 450 feet high, from which it takes 

 its name, is far more level. Very little of the undulating 

 grassy plain is enclosed; but near the town there are a few 

 hedge-banks, covered with agaves, cacti, and fennel. 



November 14th. — We left Monte Video in the afternoon. 



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