CHAPTER IX 



Santa Cruz, Patagonia, and the Falkland Islands 



Santa Cruz — Expedition up the River — Indians — Immense Streams 

 of Basaltic Lava-— Fragments not transported by the River — Excava- 

 tion of the Valley— Condor, Habits of— Cordillera— Erratic Boul- 

 ders of great size— Indian Relics— Return to the Ship— Falkland 

 Islands— Wild Horses, Cattle, Rabbits— Wolf-like Fox— Fire made 

 of Bones — Manner of Hunting Wild Cattle— Geology— Streams of 

 Stones— Scenes of Violence — Penguin — Geese — Eggs of Doris — 

 Compound Animals. 



APRIL 13th, 1834,— The Beagle anchored within the 

 mouth of the Santa Cruz. This river is situated 

 about sixty miles south of Port St. Julian. During 

 the last voyage Captain Stokes proceeded thirty miles up it, 

 but then, from the want of provisions, was obliged to re- 

 turn. Excepting what was discovered at that time, scarcely 

 anything was known about this large river. Captain Fitz 

 Roy now determined to follow its course as far as time 

 would allow. On the 18th three whale-boats started, carry- 

 ing three weeks' provisions; and the party consisted of 

 twenty-five souls— a force which would have been sufficient 

 to have defied a host of Indians. With a strong flood-tide 

 and a fine day we made a good run, soon drank some of the 

 fresh water, and were at night nearly above the tidal in- 

 fluence. 



The river here assumed a size and appearance which, 

 even at the highest point we ultimately reached, was scarcely 

 diminished. It was generally from three to four hundred 

 yards broad, and in the middle about seventeen feet deep. 

 The rapidity of the current, which in its whole course runs 

 at the rate of from four to six knots an hour, is perhaps its 

 most remarkable feature. The water is of a fine blue colour, 

 but with a slight milky tinge, and not so transparent as at 

 first sight would have been expected. It flows over a bed of 



191 



