THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE 



roared again through the rigging: it was an ominous, sub- 

 lime scene. During a few minutes there was a bright rain- 

 bow, and it was curious to observe the effect of the spray, 

 which being carried along the surface of the water, changed 

 the ordinary semicircle into a circle — a band of prismatic 

 colours being continued, from both feet of the common arch 

 across the bay, close to the vessel's side : thus forming a dis- 

 torted, but very nearly entire ring. 



We stayed here three days. The weather continued bad : 

 but this did not much signify, for the surface of the land 

 in all these islands is all but impassable. The coast is so 

 very rugged that to attempt to walk in that direction re- 

 quires continued scrambling up and down Over the sharp 

 rocks of mica-slate; and as for the woods, our faces, hands, 

 and shin-bones all bore witness to the maltreatment we 

 received, in merely attempting to penetrate their forbidden 

 recesses. 



December i8th.—We stood out to sea. On the 20th we 

 bade farewell to the south, and with a fair wind turned the 

 ship's head northward. From Cape Tres Montes we sailed 

 pleasantly along the lofty weather-beaten coast, which is 

 remarkable for the bold outline of its hills, and the thick 

 covering of forest even on the almost precipitous flanks. The 

 next day a harbour was discovered, which on this dangerous 

 coast might be of great service to a distressed vessel. It 

 can easily be recognized by a hill 1600 feet high, which is 

 even more perfectly conical than the famous sugar-loaf at 

 Rio de Janeiro. The next day, after anchoring, I succeeded 

 in reaching the summit of this hill. It was a laborious under- 

 taking, for the sides were so steep that in some parts it was 

 necessary to use the trees as ladders. There were also several 

 extensive brakes of the Fuchsia, covered with its beautiful 

 drooping flowers, but very difficult to crawl through. In 

 these wild countries it gives much delight to gain the summit 

 of any mountain. There is an indefinite expectation of seeing 

 something very strange, which, however often it may be 

 balked, never failed with me to recur on each successive 

 attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph and 

 pride which a grand view from a height communicates to the 

 mind. In these little frequented countries there is also joined 



