THE VOYAGE OF THE BEAGLE 



315 



smoke were curling upwards. Although the inhabitants were 

 so assiduous in setting fire to every part of the wood, yet 

 I did not see a single fire which they had succeeded in mak- 

 ing extensive. We dined with our friend the commandant, 

 and did not reach Castro till after dark. The next morning 

 we started very early. After having ridden for some time, 

 we obtained from the brow of a steep hill an extensive view 

 (and it is a rare thing on this road) of the great forest. 

 Over the horizon of trees, the volcano of Corcovado, and 

 the great flat-topped one to the north, stood out in proud 

 pre-eminence: scarcely another peak in the long range 

 showed its snowy summit. I hope it will be long before I 

 forget this farewell view of the magnificent Cordillera front- 

 ing Chiloe. At night we bivouacked under a cloudless sky, 

 and the next morning reached S. Carlos. We arrived on the 

 right day, for before evening heavy rain commenced. 



February 4th. — Sailed from Chiloe. During the last week 

 I made several short excursions. One was to examine a 

 great bed of now-existing shells, elevated 350 feet above 

 the level of the sea: from among these shells, large forest- 

 trees were growing. Another ride was to P. Huechucucuy. 

 I had with me a guide who knew the country far too well ; 

 for he would pertinaciously tell me endless Indian names for 

 every little point, rivulet, and creek. In the same manner as 

 in Tierra del Fuego, the Indian language appears singularly 

 well adapted for attaching names to the most trivial fea- 

 tures of the land. I believe every one was glad to say fare- 

 well to Chiloe; yet if we could forget the gloom and cease- 

 less rain of winter, Chiloe might pass for a charming island. 

 There is also something very attractive in the simplicity and 

 humble politeness of the poor inhabitants. 



We steered northward along shore, but owing to thick 

 weather did not reach Valdivia till the night of the 8th.^ The 

 next morning the boat proceeded to the town, which is dis- 

 tant about ten miles. We followed the course of the river, 

 occasionally passing a few hovels, and patches of ground 

 cleared out of the otherwise unbroken forest ; and sometimes 

 meeting a canoe with an Indian family. The town is situ- 

 ated on the low banks of the stream, and is so completely 

 buried in a wood of apple-trees that the streets are merely 



