398 
DAYS ON THE NIPIGON. 
[Concluded from page S77.] 
When morning came we feasted upon trout, but they 
did not taste as good as before, so we decided at the 
breakfast table that a change of fish should be had. An 
inspection would be made of those dorsal fins sticking out 
of the water, and if they were not trout some should be 
caught, so each of us was left to his own device. 
Knowing that whitefish were taken with gill nets, I 
never for a moment thought they would bite upon any 
sort of bait. Taking one of the boats, we started out, 
and while my fly was skipping over the top of the water 
not 50ft. from shore I got a strike that sent my reel 
whizzing, and when I landed my fish you may imagine 
my surprise to find it a Coregonu's clupeiformis of about 
21bs. weight. "We crossed the river and fished up the 
west shore, where I took two wall-jyed pike of 5 and 
5£lbs. each, and that ended my catch. I afterward 
learned that any one who catches a whitefish won't have 
any luck that day — so that the rule in my case held good. 
My patience being exhausted, we returned to camp, where 
I saw the Judge sitting on a big rock and toed in the 
rapids up to his knees. The Judge was holding his sides 
and laughing fit to kill, while .Fred would cast into the 
stream, bring up the white sides of a fish, and at times 
would land one, and when I examined into the cause of 
this fun it was to discover that Fred was snooding white- 
fish, and he and the Judge had a bet of catching or not 
catching sufficient whitefish for Pupper, so the poor fellow 
worked with all bis might and won the bet. Whitefish 
caught and planked on the Ashing grounds are far differ- 
ent fish from those frozen or purchased at market, and 
one who has not taken them right from the water and 
cooked them at once cannot realize the delicious morsel 
that they are. "Wall-eyed pike furnished another change 
in that they were boiled, and tasted very well. 
Fred seemed to be charmed as well as chained to the 
rapids near the falls, for there he stayed and fished, and 
when he hooked one he would sound the tocsin by yell- 
ing until even the Indians were excited and would go 
rushing to where he was. He made up his mind that the 
Judge should not throw him down and sit upon him by 
catching two 51bs. trout at once without his making an 
effort to redeem himself, so he came down with a big 
trout in his hand and called for the scales. But, alas, 
they would not lie; it only weighed 4ilbs. He was dis- 
appointed, but not discouraged. Back he went again to 
his favorite place, and again that whoop was heard, 
louder and deeper than ever, and this time his face was 
like the glowing sun, but the best the scales would do was 
4f lbs. , and there the Bcore remained and still remains. 
Taking one canoe and two Indians, we made a half 
day's trip up into the lake proper, and saw the Indian in 
his, tepee, his squaw, papoose, and last and by far the 
greatest part, his dogs. The Indian that we saw had 
three or four papooses and twenty dogs. 
"While we were gone the other two Indians rested in 
camp and set a snare for a fox and caught a nice large 
one with a fine brush, but we threw it away, not caring 
to bring it home. 
In the waters of the rapids below the falls the white 
Bucker {Gatostomus teres) could be seen in schools, and it 
was great sport to amuse ourselves with a dip-net trying 
to catch one, but they are like a flash, and before your 
net would touch the water they would be out of sight. 
By . sitting still you could see each kind passing in review 
before you. 
This would be a good place to camp were it not for the 
fact that every night that we camped here it would rain, 
thunder and storm at about the same hour every evening. 
No record was kept of the number of fish nor the weight 
of fish caught, as we only wanted what we could eat, but 
as the time came near to going home our pond was full 
of fish and our wants supplied, so we took some half 
dozen to eat in case we should not kill any more and put 
the rest back to grow until we came again. As our time 
was about up and we had forty miles to go down stream, 
we struck camp end started down the river under full 
sail of Indian paddles, without any accidents. 
Coming down stream we camped on the east shore of 
the narrows on the high ground, where we again tried 
our luck, hut with little success. Our last night out was 
at Camp Alexandria, where we fished Frazier's Creek 
and learned of Bass Lake. 
The creek I called Frazier's is also known as Black 
"Waters and Black Creek, and rises in Bass Lake some- 
where up in the unknown woods, and empties into the 
Nipigon River above Alexandria Camp and below Cam- 
eron's Pool. It was the scene of our first trout catch in 
this country. 
On our way down, between Split Rock and the narrows, 
the Indians pointed out to us what they said was the fig- 
ure of a loon cut in the face of the solid rocky mountain 
about 150ft. above the level of the ground, between it and 
the river, and about 50ft. down from the rocky, uneven sur- 
face of the mountain top. To us it looked like the picture 
of a bear, a tiger, and other different shapes, as the imag- 
ination created them. They said it had been cut in the 
rock by their ancestors many hundred years ago, when 
the water was at that line in this canon. We of course 
accepted their version and doffed our hats with due rev- 
erence, whereupon they were satisfied. 
"We left our camp at the narrows after the early morn- 
ing fishing and made the portage at the foot of Lake Jes- 
sie, where we got an early dinner; and then we all three 
left m charge of the young chief, bound for the small 
creek. We struck the creek at our old point (described in 
another part of this letter), and began fishing, with Fred 
as UBual m advance getting a big trout. Each one makes 
his own selection of pool and begins casting. I g 0 up 
Fred goes down, and the Judge seeks his cool, shady re- 
treat overlooking the largest pool. As my catch is all 
small trout, I throw them back and wade down, casting 
far in advance, and with the rod draw the fly from side to 
side, but I get no good trout. I Boon reach the Judge's 
pool and see him take out a 3£lb. trout, and as he slyly 
slips it on the stringer I catch a glimpse of a second large 
one. When I reach a good position I send a fly to the 
further end of the pool, just below where the Judge sits 
and slowly reel up my slack line and draw it up the cur- 
rent. I get a strike that makes my blood boil with ex- 
citement, and as I try to strike my foot slips and down I 
go up to my middle. When I recover my fish is gone. 
The Judge happens to cast his eye in my direction, and 
seeing my misfortune greets me with loud yells and 
laughter, and when I get on my feet again he composes 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
himself and goes to smoking. I repeat the same cast over 
and over again, but get nothing but a hook caught in 
some underbrush in the pool. I had to disrobe and ewim 
in and loosen it. This disgusted me with the Judge's 
pool, and I went down stream to Fred. There he stood, 
knee deep in that ice-cold water, actually playing with 
the trout. They would catch his bait and swim back and 
forward from one side of the creek to the other until one 
or the other got tired, then the trout would let go and 
swim away. I got into trouble by using a smaller bait, 
and got some trout that weighed 2, 2i and 2flbs. 
Fred and I concluded that the water below where we 
■ stood was good and deep, and we started down together, 
each taking opposite sideB of the creek. I do not say 
bank, for the reason that the banks are covered with 
heavy underbrush, which hangs over into the water, com- 
pletely hiding the banks and the shore. The water some- 
times was up to our armpits and the rocks on the bottom 
were slippery, and the current so strong that often a 
splash was heard and "Oochl" would come like a grunt, 
and either Fred or I would be down and up again, soak- 
ing wet all over. Then at times a trout would catch our 
hook and the reel spin, which would distress us further. 
We had caught sufficient to supply our camp, and we got 
very particular as to the size and color of our fish, and 
rather than kill we experimented. 
A change of bait was made, and a small-sized bass 
spoon hook was tried, and it gave us an abundance of fun. 
We reached one pool where the water was deep, dark 
and shaded by some monster forest trees, and into it a 
rapid current ran, creating a white streak. Into this we 
both made a cast, and although I could not see my line 
nor spoon, I could see Fred's and he could see mine, and 
there was following his Bpoon a trout that seemed to be 
lyd. long, and he could say the same of mine; but there 
was not a Btrike nor a catch. Those trout would follow 
spoons all over the pool and come within 15 or 20ft. of us 
before they would disappear, and would repeat it as often 
and as long as we cared to play. We left them all in the 
pool, and when some other fishermen go up there they 
can repeat our experiment in the same place. 
We came on down the creek repeating these delightful 
experiments until we heard a '•Halloo!" in the woods to 
our left, and ascertained for the first time the hour of the 
day, and that the Judge and the young chief had gone to 
camp and sent the Indians out after us. To say that we 
were glad to be found but faintly expresses our feeling, 
as we began to feel weak and were hungry, and turning 
over our catch to the Indians we started for Camp Alex- 
ander, where we sat down to a good meal. 
When we came to look around we found others en- 
camped there, and learned that we had the pleasure of 
meeting those eminent and successful fishermen, Dr. L, 
M. Yale, of New York, and the Hon. T. M. Stetson, Con- 
gressman from New Bedford, Mass. As this was their 
first day out and they had no trout we shared with them. 
The Judge had struck an acquaintance with them be- 
fore we reached camp and had secured their confidence, 
but when I had put in an appearance they seemed to 
doubt whether it was safe to camp there. When I went 
up theriver I had put on a pair of white canvas trousers 
and a brown felt hat, and as I had gotten wet heels over 
head, and had crawled up the muddy banks at several 
places and had sat down on rotten logs, the nice white 
color was all gone, and I do not blame these gentlemen 
for their thoughts. But before they could say anything 
Fred came limping down to where we were. One sole of 
his shoe had come loose and he gently wrapped a white 
handkerchief around it. It was white once, but after 
traveling down the creek and through the woods and on 
the trail, it had become any other color, and he was wet 
all over. One knee was all torn out and the back portions 
were all gone, and his face was unshaven and sunburned. 
I did not wonder at these eminent gentlemen wanting us 
to move on down stream beyond the reach of their camp. 
But after a display of badges, signs, etc., they became sat- 
isfied of our respectability and invited us to eat "kill dog" 
for supper. 
Coming down the creek we were fortunate enough to 
catch two lake trout (Sahno namaycush), but did not get 
any in the main river at any point. Qn our way down, at 
Pine Portage, we met Mr. L. M. Williams and his son, 
from Cleveland, 0. , who were just ascending the river to 
enjoy the good fiBhing that we had left. We also met 
several times a gentleman from Windsor, Ont., whose 
name has entirely slipped my memory, and I am sorry, for 
he was a jovial, good-hearted fisherman. 
This being our last night out we got to bed early and 
enjoyed a sound rest, and in the morning, after a trout 
breakfast, went down the river and enjoyed the scenery 
and everything else until we got into Lake Helen, where 
we saw the heavy, dark clouds gather in the north and 
west, and the wind blew at a rapid rate. Our Indians 
soon had a sail rigged up, and as the wind caught us we 
went spinning through the water; but our speed was slow 
compared to the rainstorm that was chasing us. Down it 
came until we were Boaking wet. In a short time the sun 
came out and the warm air made us feel cheerful, and it 
did not take us long to get into good shape again. When 
we reached the landing near the station we left the In- 
dians in charge and sought the comforts of the Taylor 
Hotel, glad to be back and sorry that our trip was so 
short. 
Out of the trout brought to the hotel I selected twenty- 
five from the largest down to one of lib. weight, and hav- 
ing used a preservative in which I placed them for thirty- 
six hours, I wrapped each one in new muslin and boxed 
them up and brought them home. I am sorry to relate, 
however, that for some unaccountable reason my fish did 
not reach here in a condition fit to eat, yet they were not 
decayed. I had the pleasure of showing them to a large 
number of gentlemen who are expert fishermen, and who 
have caught plenty of trout, and who acknowledged this 
to be the largest display of large brook trout they had 
ever seen, and I can also say that I am interviewed every 
week and sometimes every day by those who wish to 
make the trip. 
When you go to the Nipigon Bee Mr. McKirdy and give 
him a $5 bill for a license to fish on the Nipigon for each 
member of your party; this will save arrest, fine and im- 
prisonment. 
Get a canoe for each two men of your party and two 
Indians, and leave them to do the work and labor for you. 
You fish, eat and sleep and they will do the rest. 
The head guide costs $2 per day and the others $1.50 per 
day. The tents and fly cost 75 cents per day, canoes 50 
cents per day, camp outfit, consisting of cups, plates, 
[Mat 16, 1898. 
knives, forks, spoons, cooking utenBils, etc., costs 50* 
cents per day. The bill of provisions that we got* 
amounted to $36.58 for three men and five Indians for' 
seven days, and the camp equipage bill was $16.75 for the| 
same time. 
Now as to the going up the river without the aid of thel 
Indians, let me say this: If you are not afraid of work in I 
rowing and paddling the canoe, and carrying the goods I 
over the seven or eight portages, there is nothing for the. I 
ordinary fisherman to fear. A map of the country can be I 
purchased from William McKirdy at Nipigon, or at most ! 
of the stations along the Canadian Pacific R. R , and they I 
will show every place to go. The canoes are 18 to 20 ft. I 
long by 4ft. wide, and will stand all the hard wear than 
will be required of them, and if you want to take your I 
own tents along it will save that much of cost. But if I 
you want to do nothing but fish then take the Indians! 
along. 
One of the ruleB of the Nipigon is to burn the brush! 
after you leave your camp, so that when others come they! 
will have a clean camp ground. 
The water of the Nipigon is ice cold, as I have saidl 
before, but I think it must come from "Greenland's ioyl 
mountains" or the North Pole, and the only time weM 
could stand a bath in the river was shortly after the noon I 
hour, when the sun was the hojbtest, and even then it j 
would shrivel us up until we would be an inch or two* 
shorter, then have to hurry out and rush to the log fire J 
to warm up. There are places where not a handful of I 
sand, mud or clay can be seen or found; the shores area 
rocks piled upon rocks, and in some places as regular as 1 
if piled by human hands. In Lake Nipigon in particular J 
I recall one place that I looked over the bow of the canoe J 
and could see the regular piles of rocks for 500 or 600ft. I 
extending from the bank above the water down in its* 
depths until lost to my vision. I can hardly venture toil 
guess at the depth of the lake, but we were told it was! 
tremendous. 
The old chief that we had with us was a medicine man, | 
and had his rabbit-skin blanket along, with which he! 
performed wonderful cures. The young chief got a bad J 
cold going north, and the old chief wrapped him up in iti 
and performed his pow-wow over him; but when he gotj 
real bad, so that we feared a delay on account of it, Fred] 
fixed up a concoction that he drank, and the next dayj 
was all right; but to the Indian the blanket did the] 
work. 
When we got to Port Arthur on our way home, it was our' 
good fortune to meet, at the Northern Hotel, Gen. John 
McNulta, of Chicago, on his way to the Nipigon ; and we had 
the pleasure of inspecting his instruments, by which km 
would ascertain the coldness of the water, measure the 
depths of the river and lake, and also of seeing a reel 
which he invented. The General is one of the most 
eminent, widely known and successful fishermen of 
the present age, and I have no doubt he ha 1 a grand timei 
among the whales that we left in the Nipigon River. 
I am of the opinion, and strongly so, that men may 
talk all they want to about different kinds of bait for 
taking trout, or in fact any other kind of fish, but when 
it comes to taking the big ones there is no bait like the 
live minnow, as this will always coax a fish to strike, 
when no other kind of bait will do so. I have no doubt) 
that many of the large trout taken both in the Nipigon 
and elsewhere have been caught with a live minnow; nob, 
that many have not been taken on the artificial fly, but it 
stands to reason that the small minnows can always be 
had, while flies, bugs, etc., cannot, and they seem to 
be the natural food for the larger fish of all kinds and 
everywhere, so I conclude they are the most successful. 
I have asked my two companions to assist in the con- 
tribution of this article, but they have left it to me, and I 
have endeavored to give you a true outline of our trip on 
the Nipigon. I can assure the readers of Forest and 
Stream that when they make the trip they will find that 
half of the wonders and glories of the Nipigon Cafion are 
not half told, and would not be exhausted after many 
and repeated trips. 
The Judge tells me repeatedly that the "life and 
strength he gained on that trip are not yet half exhausted 
and that he will repeat the trip again." Fred says the 
same, and I can but add that I got rid of la grippe, which 
worried and harassed me all last summer, and I hav^ 
been free from it ever since. So ends the best and most 
glorious trip ever taken to the fisherman's paradise, 
J. W. Hague. 
A Net Teaser. 
This device is of British origin; we copy it from Land 
and Water. It is for use only in waters where nettiDg is 
forbidden and is to be discouraged. Specifications : Any 
old barrel, any old iron done into hooks and crooks, and 
a load of stone quantum suff. to fill the barrel. Set in a 
cool place under water and it will do the rest. 
Game Laws in Brief. 
Thk Game Laws in Brief, current edition, sold everywhere, has 1 
new game and flab laws for more than thirty of the States. It cover b ( 
the entire country, is carefully prepared, and gives all that shooters | 
and anglers reouire. See advertisement. 
