6 
LaJcevieiv Seed Farm. Rochester, N. Y. 
MA]Vra.EL WUKZET^S. 
Carter's Imp roved Or.»iij4e 
Olobe.— The best ot the Globe Man- 
gels; will grow in all soils ; rich, nutri- 
tious, and will keep very late. Per oz., 
10 cents ; pound, 60 cents. 
Carters' Mammoth Liong- Ked. 
— Is very large size and good qualii v ; 
grow^n extensively. Per oz. , 10 cents ; 
pound. 60 cents. 
Golden Tankard. — ^In shape inter 
mediate between the Long and Globe 
varieties ; co^or yellow ; nutritious and 
fine flavor. The type does not seem to 
be well established, as it does not grow 
uniform. Per oz., 10 cents ; pound, 60 carter's orange globe 
cents. MANGEL. 
BROCCOLI. 
Broccoli produces heads like the cauliflower, but is more 
hardy. Cultivation same as cauliflower, except that the plants 
should not be g own or set too early, as it does the best in the 
cool weather of autumn. The cape varieties are best suited to 
our climate. Sow the seed in the open ground, about the middle 
of May, and transplant from the 1st to the 10th of July 
Early Purple Cape.— The most reliable to head and the 
best for our climate. Per packet, 10 cents ; oz., 40 cents. 
CABBAGE. 
Cabbages are one of my specialties, both as a market crop 
and for growing the seed. I raise no stump seed; only the best 
heads and of the best type are used for seed. My Winningstadt 
Fottler's Brunswick and Excelsior Flat Dutch are of the very 
best strains, obtained by years of careful selection. There are 
none better and few as good. The Excelsior Flat Dutch is a 
strong growing cabbage, and must have a strong soil to make 
h^rd heads. Many growers make the mistake of trying to grow 
a large cabbage on poor s oil. If your soil is light or sandv try 
the Winningstadt. New land is preferable, and ic is not safe to 
follow cabbage with cabbage, otherwise " club root" will appear. 
I have found a clover sod one of the best fertilizers for cabbage. 
The most important thing next after plenty of manure is the 
frequent stirring of the soil. It cannot be stirred too often. For 
this latitude. 4-3 degrees, I flnd that the best time to sow the seed 
of the late cabbage for a fall and winter crop is from the 10th to 
the 25th of May, and set the plants from the 25th of June to the 
4th of July. Different sowings should be made so as to have the 
plants rea ly when the ground is in a suitable condition for 
setting. The early small growing varieties may be set 18 to 20 
inches apart in the row. The later varieties should be set 2J to 3 
feet apart. The seed can be sown broadcast, but I prefer to sow 
in rows 10 inches apart An ouace of seed will produce about 
3,000 plants, but it is a safe rule to sow an ounce for every 2,000 
plants wanted. 
I have been very successful with the late varieties by plant- 
ing them about the first of Juae in hills where they are to grow. 
Make the hills, a mere hoeful of earth, and then with the thumb 
and tinger put three to five seeds in the hill. When large enough 
to transplant, the surplus plants are very handy to replace any 
hills that may have been destroyed by the black fly or cut w orm. 
Late plants are quite liable to be destroyed by the cabbage fly as 
soon as they appear abov > the ground. To prevent this, dust 
them over lightly, just as they are coming up, with fine air- 
.•slacked lime or soot. Do not delav this even for a day, for the 
aelay may be fatal to the crop. It is best applied when the dew 
is on. For the green cabbage worm, so de tructive in some local- 
ities, I have found Pyrethrum, or Persian Insect Powder a perfect 
remedy. It is not poisonous and may be used with perfect 
safety. Sprinkle it on the worms with a small dredging box. I 
liave used it quite extensively and always with success. 
