July 21, 1894.] FOREST AND STREAM. gg 
ON THE NORTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR. 
{Continued from, Page 10.) 
The dawn came, and with it came the same thundering 
"northwester," which meant another day of inactivity 
The sun shone brightly, the blue sky was studded with, 
little clouds, and the distant shore stretched along the 
horizon like a streak of violet. Before us broke the waves 
of the sea, still agitated by the fierce wind, while in a 
grove near by, that was sheltered from the unruly blasts, 
some minstrels of lovely plumage were twittering and 
singing with wondrous and plaintive sweetness. 
"Sweet bird I thy bower is ever green, 
Thy sky is ever clear; 
Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, 
No winter in thy year." 
The day passed without any event occurring worth 
noticing, then another morning dawned with the same 
persistent northwester, which, like Banquo's ghost, was as 
dominant as if it would never down. After breakfast 
Ned, in desperation, again tried the outside battlement 
for a trout, but he soon came back without a fin and re- 
ported, "Too much sea, too much gale." 
During the waning hours of the afternoon the wind 
showed less fierceness, a favorable indication that the sea 
god was about to rule for gentle zephyrs and seas of 
serene gentleness, which would doubtless give us a votive 
offering, a dome of surpassing beauty in cirri and satin, 
purple and gold. 
About 4 o'clock Peter and Kenosh, who had been down 
at the fishing shanty in the little . bay near the point, put in 
a hasty appearance and hurriedly began building a fire. 
"What are you doing that for?" I asked. 
"To get supper," Peter answered, somewhat surprised. 
"Why it's only 4 o'clock, and we don't want supper 
now." 
At this they ceased feeding the flames and returned 
from whence they came. In about fifteen minutes after 
their departure they came back in a great hurry with a 
firm determination on their faces that boded no good, and 
again began to build a fire. 
Once more I hurried out, though Ned tried to persuade 
me to remain, and in a very emphatic manner told Peter 
not to prepare the meal until 6 o'clock. 
"The fishermen have all gone to their supper," he snap- 
pishly replied. 
"That makes no difference if they have; 6 o'clock is our 
supper hour, and we don't want it a moment sooner, and 
don't you forget it." 
"Then I'll be blanked if I get it." 
"Then I'll be blanked if we pay you or feed you." 
"I don't care a d — n," says the red-handed revolutionist, 
and then he discontinued his efforts at kindling the fire 
and stalked away in great anger, while I returned to the 
tent. 
After the lapse of a minute or two he presented himself 
at our tent with the flush of deep excitement still on him 
and nervously said: 
"I have tried all I could to please you." 
"Why don't you continue to do so?" I calmly came 
back. 
"I've done my best." 
"You are doing your best now to get up a quarrel." 
"I don't want to quarrel." 
"Why not respect our orders then?" 
"I always have." 
"But now you diregardthem." 
He made no reply to this, but sullenly walked away 
and sought the deep woods, there to pout and plan, In- 
dian-like. 
We concluded that rather than submit to the red- 
handed barbarian we would drive him out of camp and 
await the arrival of the tug and take passage on her to 
the Soo. It is strange, but we never employed a half- 
hreed the second time but what he was sure to revolt at 
some trifle or other. Ned said it was the result of kind 
treatment, and that the only way to succeed with them 
was to avoid all familiarity and rule with an autocratic 
power. Ned, however, never practiced what he preached, 
for he invariably demoralized every Indian that accom- 
panied him from pure kindness and excessive friendli- 
ness. I had cautioned him time and again about it, and 
its discontinuance was only made a necessity when the 
war songs were welling forth and the tomahawks sharp- 
ened. 
About the time to commence preparations for supper, 
Kenosh, who had accompanied Peter to the forest, put in 
an appearance, and on requesting him to prepare our 
meal he went briskly and pleasantly about it. Soon after 
the fire was built Peter returned looking somewhat crest- 
fallen, and seeing Kenosh employed as chef took his coat 
off and lent a willing hand in the preparation of the sup- 
per and that without our requesting it. The revolt was 
over, no more the drum provokes to arms, "the trumpets 
sleep while cheerful horns are blown." 
"Buried was the bloody hatchet; 
Buried was the dreadful war club; 
Buried was all warlike weapons; 
And the war-cry was forgotten, 
Then was peace among the nations." 
Another dawn came and the sun arose in brilliant form 
and chased away the shadows of the night. A light 
breeze, that tantalized the. boatmen, making them think 
of toil at the oars, rippled the water, while overhead the 
Bky was lovely in sapphire blue with banks of snowy 
clouds. 
All being anxious for departure, the matutinal meal 
was soon served, the camp hastily dismantled, the boat 
loaded, and again we are aboard sailing over gentle seas 
that brightly sparkled, and in soft cadence murmured: 
"And the raibow hangs on the poising wave, 
And sweet is the color of cove and cave, 
And sweet shall your welcome be." 
It was an earnest study the boatmen made of the 
elements, for they dreaded the "cedar breeze," the oars — 
but happily, the wind not only held, but as the sun 
ascended it began to strengthen, and soon we were tossing 
a silvery curd from the bow that flashed in the glowing 
aun and then caressingly lost itself in our wake. 
Peter, who was at the helm, felt as if he were in utter 
disgrace from the shameful part he had played in the 
revolt, but he was very humble and penitent, and also 
exceedingly polite; decidedly patronizing, I should say, to 
put it in a more favorable light. He, however, after a 
long silence, opened up the subject with Ned by saying 
that he was very sorry for the occurrence and would 
make an apology if he thought he were in error, intimat- 
ing that if he were not I must be. Ned tumbled to his 
judicial chair and gave him an opinion on the subject that 
would have done honor to any jurist, and also at the same 
time lectured him in plain Saxon, that I opine he will 
long treasure for his own especial guidance hereafter. It 
covered him not only in deep confusion, but made him so 
contrite that he turned to and made a very humble apology 
for his defiant conduct. He further stated that in order 
to have a distinct understanding with anglers hereafter, 
he would have a set of rules that they would have to 
adhere to or else he would decline going with them. 
Ned, who was always quick to give a quid pro quo, 
said he (Peter) could have what constitution and by-laws 
he desired, but that he would nave a simple and unmis- 
takable rule, and that was to employ no boatmen who 
would not implicitly obey his orders, and they would be 
reasonable, too. 
This knocked out the wily half-breed as completely as 
if he had been struck by lightning, for he had all along 
been endeavoring to have us engage him for our next 
trip. He had overlooked this fact in his haste to be 
autocratic and had met with a resistance entirely unex- 
pected. This was the last echo of the rebellion at 
Mamaise Point. 
Ned suggested, as we neared Raissaines, that we land 
and make a visit to a new copper mine that had recently 
been opened at this fishing station, the oldest on the lake, 
having been in the Raissaine family for over forty-five 
years, descending from father to son. We were some- 
what disappointed in not seeing the mines, for on land- 
ing were told they were about five miles inland, too far 
for us to tramp; but were further informed that a 
diamond drill only a half mile back was in operation 
endeavoring to trace the vein of this mine. This being 
a novelty to us we paid it a visit and were well pleased 
with the trip, as we received a fund of valuable informa- 
tion from the engineer in charge of the works. 
He had gone with the drill some forty-five feet through 
solid rock and the various strata were plainly outlined in 
the inch core taken therefrom. The owners of the mine 
were very confident of its developing richly, but as I had 
seen so many abandoned mines on both shores of this 
lake, that at first were rich in promise, was exceedingly 
doubtful of the success of this venture. 
Before we left Ned advised putting our rods together 
and trying for trout along some rocks just before we 
entered Pancake Bay. It used to be a capital place for 
sport, but I presumed that it had, like other|choice spots, 
been depleted by the rapacity of the red-handed pot- 
hunter. As our larder was just then minus this deli- 
cious fish I thought the suggestion a good one and at 
once complied with it. Our rods ready for the combat 
we embark for the promised land, and after going about 
two miles reach it and commence the work of tempting 
the tinted beauties, with Ned in the stern, I in the bow 
and the boatman at the oars, the sails having been 
lowered. It was evidently a lovely place for complete 
concealment of a fontinalis or for romantic retreat of 
some nymph of the deep: 
"ITor here are the blissful downs and dales, 
And merrily, merrily carol the gales, 
And the spangle dances in bight and bay." 
Great blocks of massive stones covered the bottom in 
the wildest confusion, while crevices and chasms were as 
irregular as the rocks themselves. Here a gateway for a 
golden haired Naiad; there a cozy cover for a vermilion 
dyed beauty, and yonder a channel for a little rivulet 
that babbles and sparkles as it drops over mosses and 
lichens that cover the stony battlements and arches of 
the "grim-visaged" cliffs. 
I expected every moment to see a flash of silver and a 
sudden commotion of the waters_as the lures dropped, but 
the pleasing vision did not realize till I had about aban- 
doned all hope. It then came just as we were about to 
round into the bay, but not from any collossal dweller in 
the granite gorges of the deep, but from an adolescent 
habitue, who had not been fully taught the lessons of 
duplicity of the ambitious angler. It was a gratification, 
however, to even receive a response from one of this size, 
for though a disappointment in weight, its ravishing 
beauty fully balanced the account. Its avoirdupois was 
in ounces and barely escaped being a pounder by a few 
fractions. But oh! he was a pink of perfection, le beau 
ideal, looking as if he had come 
"From that sapphire fount, the crisped brook, 
Rolling In orient pearl and sands of gold," 
from whence he took his iridescent hues. I admit that I 
am and always have been deeply enthused with the love- 
liness of a Lake Superior Salvelinus fontinalis, for of all 
the fish that cleave the deep he is undoubtedly without a 
peer in both symmetry and tinting. The crimson of the 
clouds, the pink of the sea shell and the blush of the rose 
are no rarer than the enameled dyes which so enchant- 
ingly envelop this idol of the icy lake. Tintorete, Vero- 
nese and Turner, great color artists as they were, never 
possessed the talent of transferring to canvas the celestial 
colors of this matchless beauty, nor has any other artist 
of our day ever given us a faithful picture of this finny 
Adonis. As well try to imitate the ocean or the Alps, 
a cloud or a tree. You can feast your eyes upou the 
brook beauty with an infinite delight, but what purports 
to be his artistic fac simile will never create one thrill of 
admiring emotion from either angler or naturalist. 
It was suggested to have this "dandy of the gleaming 
stars" as the dish de resistance for our lunch. It was a 
very rapid step from the lake to the frying pan, but the 
handsome dude made it all the same; for with, this victim 
as a tempting offering we immediately ceased casting and 
went ashore for the feast. 
The boatmen had a hard time in finding a place to serve 
the meal, as the shore was one complete mass of broken 
rocks and glistening boulders. A horizontal plane was 
out of the question, and whether the table was placed 
on an angle of forty-five I am not mathematician enough 
to state; but I do know that we had to keep constant vigil 
on the dishes to prevent them sliding off and going to 
pieces on the flinty rocks. As Ned was on the highest 
plane he left the principal work to me, and as I was in 
danger of either being scalded with hot tea or having the 
edibles in my lap, I never relaxed vigilance on. the china. 
I of course ate at a great disadvantage, Ned getting two 
bites to my one, and as a consequence he arose from the 
table perfectly satisfied and smiling, while I, having what 
is called a "twenty minutes for refreshments" with the 
realization of less than ten, was au contraire. I was, how- 
ever, duly impressed with this moral: Always take the 
elevated side of the table. 
After the boatmen had satisfied their rapacious maws 
and had everything aboard, we pushed off, and throwing 
our sails to the breeze, which had perceptibly increased, it 
filled them as if it meant business, and once more the 
winged fabric cleaved through the restless seas. 
We rounded into the radiant bay in fine form, and 
when the emerald of the mosses, th« green of the ferns 
and the yellow of the tall primroses, that ran wantonly 
along the picturesque shore, had faded from view, we 
began to catch the wind in a very spirited manner that 
about doubled our headway, and made a bright mass of 
white water fairly hum as it rose and toppled and raced 
along the seas in beaded foam. 
The day had charmingly developed and was now rejoic- 
ing in a bright sun that was beautifying everything upon 
which its ardent rays fell. The savage walls of ravine, 
crag and chasm were in a blaze of silver and haze of 
purple pale; the bending foliage on the receding hills 
blushed in many delicate hues; the waves ran in crests of 
sparkling foam, while overhead the fleeces precious with 
"the gold of heaven" indolently floated as if their mission 
were only to enhance the splendor of the sky. 
It was six miles across the bay and four to Bachewau- 
aung Lighthouse, where we proposed to camp for the 
evening. Ned, however, was anxious to make Maple 
Bay, but as the shore there was shallow the present 
course of the wind would give us a sea of heavy breakers 
in which to land. This, of course, not being desirable, 
we concluded to turn into the lovely bay and there re- 
main for the night and leave the next morning, provided 
we had a favorable breeze. Having made the crossing of 
the unpoetically named bay — Pancake — we began to skim 
along the shore with a speed that promised soon to land 
us at our destination. The sea was now rising with its 
snowy plumes in grand style, 
"And the crest 
Of mounting wave is rimmed with gold 1" 
Since leaving in the early morning we had had the ex- 
tremes of sailing weather. Pirst, we had the circling 
ripples of the catspaw, and now we are plunging over 
liquid cliffs that bade fair to madden into tempests. Here 
beauty is so rapidly merged into terror that it requires 
the inclusion of several conditions to preserve it. As we 
have stated in substance beforo, you may be in ecstaciesof 
delight over some admiring scene in gentle seas, and ere 
you have passed an hour you may be looking heavenward 
with a prayer upon your lips. Such is the great lake, and 
those who voyage upon it in frail crafts must be prepared 
to accept it with a good grace either in its savage fury or 
its unfurled calm. 
We made harbor about 2 o'clock and in a twinkle 
almost our boatmen had our tents erected on a plateau 
overlooking the bay. We had hardly settled in our quar- 
ters before a party of anglers from a steam yacht en route 
for Aguawa called upon us and exchanged the usual 
courtesies. They stated that they intended fishing on the 
morrow in Harmony River that empties into this bay, and 
then they would depart for the Aguawa and fish its big 
pools, which are fully ten miles from its mouth. They 
had been there before, they stated, and had met with un- 
exampled success, and expected it again. They were ad- 
mirably equipped for the trip and each of them sported a 
splendid outing suit that made us green with envy. After 
our being in camp for a month the "spick and span" of 
our suits had faded, and with our sun-browed complex- 
ion and somewhat unkempt locks must have looked some- 
thing like the "raggedy man." Ned said it was a clear 
case of gilt edge versus ragged edge. Poverty-stricken as 
we looked we offered them the loving cup, but they were 
not just then inclined to dally with the ruby wine or the 
fiery bourbon, and so after a fraternal chat, in which the 
accustomed romances of the rod and reel were exchanged 
they bade us an ardent adieu. 
No sooner had their footsteps ceased to echo before our 
enthusiastic angler, the fine old gentleman from Ken- 
tucky, turned in with his mackinac and landed. We 
were delighted to see him and gave him a very cordial 
welcome. He stated that he had been wind-bound in 
Pancake Bay, and that on seeing us dash by with the 
radiant foam tossing frOm our prow he suggested to his 
boatmen to up sail and follow in our wake. They were 
not, however, in accord with his wishes at all, but in- 
sisted on waiting until the wind lulled with the declining 
sun. He was somewhat indignant at their refusal, but 
had to comply, as they held the trumps. 
With the setting of the fiery orb, which went down in 
waving flame of scarlet, interwoven with bands of orange 
and edges of gold and violet, the air became quite cool, 
necessitating a rousing Are for comfort. Around this we 
all gathered with our camp chairs and whiled the hours 
away in delightful converse. Our Kentucky friend stated 
that the first four days of the trip he did not catch a single 
trout, so completely had the market-hunting half-breeds 
and Indians with their gill nets and set lines cleaned the 
coast of the trout. He had his best sport along the shore 
near the mouth of Gravel River. Here he caught some 
magnificent trout, several being 4-pounders. On his 
return he had very indifferent success, and was satisfied 
that the entire coast line, for fully 150 miles or more, be- 
ginning at Gros Cap, had been about stripped of its trout, 
and so limited the sport now that he had. determined to 
hereafter abandon the North Shore as a piscatorial resort. 
He expressed a desire to try next season the magnificent 
pools on the famed Nipigon. 
The North Shore trouting is rapidly on the wane and 
evidently has seen its best days, its ruin being hastened 
by the market purveyors, and the lax administration of 
the law by the Canadian Minister of Fisheries. All along 
the entire shore the statute is a dead letter, for as I have 
before observed, there is no concealment about its viola- 
tion. A season or two more and a Salvelinus fontinalis 
will be as much a rarity here as that extinct bird, the 
dodo. 
That evening the lighthous keeper told me, in an ad- 
miring way, that his boy had realized as much as $10 a 
day in netting trout in the bay early in the season. This 
I simply give as an example to illustrate the depletion 
that is constantly going on here in and out of season, It 
is really high time that attention is called for the protec- 
tion of the trout on this coast, and those high in authority 
should at once move in the matter ere it be too late. 
There is something supremely beautiful and exalting in 
the faithful administration of a protective game law, and 
it assuredly should be something more than a mere cob- 
