Nov. 10, 1894.] 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
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thickness sufficient to get out the model without having to piece out 
anywhere. 
First mark out with a lead pencil the deck line on the block, using 
the drawing for a pattern, draw a line straight through the center 
from end to end, carry this line down each end and straight along the 
bottom of the block. Now cut away the sides to the deck line— a good 
way if the block is a large one is to take it to some mill where there is 
a band saw and have it sawed out. Now mark on the side the profile 
or keel line, and sheer line of the deck, and cut away to it, being care- 
ful to cut only a little at a time and follow up the cutting by marking 
the center line under the bottom of the boat so that when you have 
finished that part of it you have a line running down the stem and 
straight along what will be the center of the keel up the center of the 
stern post and along under the center of the overhang- When you 
have cut away the sneer of the deck line mark the center line over 
again, and divide this line off by lines running across the block at the 
points where the templates are to be used, and make corresponding 
lines across the bottom of the keel. v. : r ' - C-« 
Having gone this far you are ready to commence to shape your boat, 
and this part of the work will require a great deal of care arid patience. 
Don't try to hurry, but cut into the block carefully, trying your tem- 
plates often to see that you are not cutting away too much, always 
being sure that the straight piece on the top of your template lies on 
the line on the deck at right angles to the center line, and the bottom 
end is on the corresponding line on the keel. When you have finished 
one side, turn the block and work the same on the other side, and if 
you have used proper care in adjusting the templates, both sides will 
be alike, and your boat true. Now sandpaper it down to remove the 
unevenness caused by your tools, using coarse (No. 2) paper first, and 
finish with fine (No. V&) paper. 
The boat is now ready to be hollowed out. To do this conveniently 
a cradle should be made for it to lie in, so that it will be held firmly 
while using the gouge or chisel. This can be made by taking two 
short pieces of board and cutting them out so that they will fit under 
the Doat, one at either end, and connecting the two by strips nailed 
from one to the other. 
Draw a line from % to from the outside all around the boat on 
the top or deck, cut straight down from this line for about i^in., and 
as you go further down in the boat, work out toward the outside until 
as thin as desirable until near the bottom, where it should be left 
thicker. The thickness of the sides depends somewhat upon the size 
of the model, from J^in. on a small model to J^in. on one of 35 to 40in. 
in length. 
Next get out the deck beams, cutting all before setting any m, so as 
to have them of the same curve or rise of deck. They should be about 
J4in. in thickness by J^in. deep, and curve to rise about J^in at mid- 
ship. Use the first one made as a pattern for the rest. Cut them to 
length for the position they are to go in, and mortise them into the 
sides so that the upper side is flush with the upper edge of the boat, 
and the ends J4in. inside of outer line. Now fasten two straight 
pieces or beams in between the deck beams at the place where the 
hatch opening is to be, to form the sides of the hatch, being careful to 
leave the opening large enough to insert the hand, as you will need to 
hold a small weight under some of the beams while nailing on the 
deck. 
For the deck use either pine or light mahogany }£in. thick and cut 
%\n. larger than the boat, and when nailed on, round off the edge with 
sandpaper. This forms a sort of bead, and will act as a fender. 
When the deck is on, cut out the rail, preferably of oak, from % to 
}4in. in thickness, according to size of boat, and about twice as high 
at the bow as at the stern— a gradual taper down. Cut out two or 
three places from the under side of the rails close together at the 
lowest part of the deck, for scuppers, about lin. long and half the 
height of the rail. Bevel the rail where needed to conform to section 
of the boat, and nail on with wire nails. It is well to drill holes in 
the rail for the nails, to insure their going straight and to avoid split- 
ting. 
THE BREAD-AND-BUTTER PLAN. 
The bread-and-butter plan is an improvement over the block method 
for models of larger size and is used to advantage in smaller ones as 
well. In this plan the water lines are laid down a distance apart equal 
to the thickness of the material to be used. It is desirable to have all 
the pieces out of the same wood to avoid breaking of the joints by ex- 
pansion and contraction of different woods, so the larger the boat the 
thicker must be the plank from which it is made in order to be able to 
get ail that is wanted from one plank. Large models sometimes re- 
quire a plank 2in. thick and 16ft. long, and even then it is necessary 
to make some of the smaller sections from the pieces taken out from 
the center of the upper ones. 
To begin this plan, cut your drawing out at the deck line and use as 
a pattern to mark out on the wood. As the drawing is usually made 
for only one-half of the boat, after marking one side draw a straight 
line on the board from end to end of the line you have made for one 
side, then turn the pattern over and mark the other side, a straight 
line should be drawn across the plan at midship and this line marked 
on each section when marked off, as well as the line running fore and 
aft to guide in putting the sections together; these two lines we will 
call the guide lines. 
Now cut your drawing down to the next section or waterline and 
lay it on the part you have already marked out, being careful to bring 
the guide lines over each other, and make a light or dotted line to the 
pattern, and removing it draw a heavy line from lin. to lf£in. inside 
of the dotted line, increasing the distance from the dotted line at the 
ends to iy 2 or 3in This line marks the piece to be sawed out from the 
inside of the upper section, leaving sufficient overlap to glue to the 
next one below. 
Now move the pattern along the plank and mark out the next section, 
after which cut the drawing down to the third section line to get the 
inside line for section as before; repeat this process until you have all 
the sections marked out. The bottom sections, two or perhaps three 
of them, if the model is for a keel boat, will be solid, not sawed out in 
the center. 
You can now take your plank to the mill and have your sections 
sawed out to the lines you have made, and they are ready to be glued 
together. In gluing care must be taken to bring the guide lines to- 
gether exactly over each other; you will facilitate this by squaring 
the lines down the edges of the sections after they are sawed out. 
When it is all glued together the whole will have something the form 
of the boat made of a series of steps both inside and outside, and :you 
will find the labor of shaping it is very much less than it would be 
from the block, and you have a better and stronger boat; as it is less 
liable to check or split open. The writer has now four models that 
were made in this manner five or six years ago, and there is not a 
check or split in them, and it is impossible to tell at this time where 
the joints in them are. The instructions for shaping and hollowing 
out given for the block method should be followed in this plan, but in 
addition yon have the waterlines on which the sections are sawed to 
guide you in your work as you work off the corners until you fair the 
boat down to the sawed lines. 
Care should be taken where the section is convex in form not to 
take off too much between the lines before trying the templates, or 
you will be apt to destroy the symmetry of the boat. 
The instructions for deck beams and deck also apply to this plan. 
We now come to the built up plan, which is the one at present most 
in favor with the advanced model yachtsman. 
As the instructions for a built model are somewhat lengthy and will 
require considerable space, we will leave it for another number. 
[to be continued next week.] 
Steel Shipbuilding in Washington. 
Everett, Wash., Oct. 24.— The first whaleback steamer built on the 
Pacific coast was launched to-day at the yards of the American Steel 
Barge Company, in this city, in the presence of 15,000 people. 
This new rival for the Pacific carrying traffic, christened the City of 
Everett, is 361ft. long, 42ft. beam, 26ft. deep, with a carrying capacity 
of 4,800 tons, and will cost completed $5300,000. 
The launching and celebration in the city were successes, augmented 
by warm, bright weather. Among the guests were Governor McGraw 
and staff, officials of the Great Northern, Northern Pacific and Everett 
& Monte Cristo Railway companies, and mayors and councilmen from 
neighboring cities. 
The parade in celebration of the event was a grand pageant of the 
industrial resources of this the youngest city in the State, and repre 
sented manufacturing enterprises employing an aggregate of $55,000,- 
000 capital. It also marks an epoch in city building, when it is realized 
that four years ago a dense forest existed where now stands a vig- 
orous city having imposing buildings, fifteen miles of paved streets, 
eighteen miles of water mains, eight miles of electric street railway, 
a port of customs entry, shipping facilities over five railroads and lines 
of ocean steamships, and the most extensive manufacturing industries 
in the Pacific Northwest. Cayuga. 
Crusader and Toxteth. 
A fine race was sailed on Oct. 13 between the keel schooner Toxteth 
and the centerboard schooner Crusader, both of Chicago. A gale was 
blowing on Lake Michigan and both yachts were reefed down when 
they started at 3:15 P.M., the course being from the Van Buren street 
gap around the Waterworks Crib and the Four-Mile Crib and back; a 
dead beat, a run and a beat in. Toxteth crossed in the lead and held 
her own over two legs of the course. The sea was very bad and 
Crusader finally gave up, as she was far astern and making water. 
The times were: 
Start. 1st crib. 2d crib. Finish. 
Toxteth 3 16 40 3 51 00 4 14 30 5 03 40 
Crusader 3 15 00 3 52 00 4 15 30 Withdrew. 
