Chap. LIII. THE FIRST ENCAMPMENT. 
13 
influence of the climate of Kiikawa. We did not set 
out, however, before the sun had begun to impart 
to the atmosphere a more genial character, when 
we proceeded on our journey westward. The coun- 
try which I traversed, passing by the frequented well 
of Besher, although already known to me from pre- 
vious travels, now presented a very different aspect 
from what it had done on my first journey from 
Kan6 to Kiikawa, — those bleak and dreary hollows of 
black argillaceous soil being now changed into the 
richest corn-fields, and waving with a luxuriant crop 
of masakuwa, while the fields of small millet {Pen- 
nisetum) stood in stubble. 
We encamped near the well Siiwa-biiwa, or, as it 
was called by others, Kabubiya, on the gentle slope of 
the rising ground towards the north, from whence the 
busy scene round the well, of cattle, asses, goats, and 
sheep being watered in regular succession, presented 
an interesting and animated spectacle, more especially, 
coming after and contrasted with the dull life of the 
capital. The well measured fifteen fathoms in depth ; 
and the inhabitants were so on the alert for gain that 
they thought it right to sell us the precious element 
for watering our camels. My whole party were in 
the best spirits, cheerful and full of expectation of the 
novelties, both in human life and nature, that were to 
be disclosed in the unknown regions in the far west. 
In order to protect ourselves from the cold, which 
had so much affected us the preceding night, we set 
fire to the whole of a large decayed tree, which, with 
