214 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 
Chap. LIX. 
at this part almost three miles in breadth, affording 
the richest ground for cultivation, but at present 
plunged in a state of the utmost insecurity. Even 
then it was full of cattle, at least its southerly part ; 
but they had to be carefully watched by the natives 
from above the slope, for the whole of the country 
on the other side, the hilly chains and cones of which 
are clearly seen, is in the hands of the A'zena, that 
is to say, those native inhabitants of Kebbi who, 
since the death of the more energetic 'Atiku, are suc- 
cessfully struggling for their religious and political 
independence. On the very brink of the slope a 
market was held, where we bought some necessaries 
before entering the town ; and I willingly lingered a 
few moments, as the whole presented a very novel 
sight, increased by a picturesque spur or promontory 
which juts out into the valley a few miles to the 
west, and is a remarkable feature in the landscape. 
We then entered the town, which is rather thickly 
inhabited, but is far from presenting that cheerful 
aspect which is peculiar to most of the towns in these 
regions, as it is almost bare of trees. I myself was 
quartered in an excellent hut, belonging to a newly- 
married couple, and possessing all the comforts of 
which these simple dwellings are capable, — the floor 
and walls of the hut being neatly polished, and the 
background or "nanne" being newly sprinkled with 
snow-white sand ; but the whole of the courtyard was 
extremely narrow, and scarcely afforded space for 
my horses and camels. 
