286 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 
Chap. LXl. 
great that I was obliged to send two of my people back 
to a considerable distance in order to procure a little 
grass for the horses. The head man of the village 
received us very inhospitably, refusing us quarters 
in such a peremptory manner, that it was only by 
force I could procure an open yard where to pitch 
my tent. However, he soon changed his behaviour 
entirely. It so happened that a thunder-storm, with 
the blackest clouds, which in the opinion of every 
one portended a heavy fall of rain, twice passed over 
our heads without bringing these famished people a 
single drop ; whereupon all of them assured the in- 
hospitable mayor that it was a divine punishment 
for his niggardly and unrighteous conduct towards 
me. Frightened, therefore, by such signs, he carried 
his hospitality so far as even to make me a present of 
a young heifer. But the first advances towards a 
friendly intercourse were made by an old woman, 
the mistress of the piece of ground where we had 
encamped, — she bringing me, as a token of good- 
will, a dish of well-cooked paste, which probably con- 
stituted her whole supper. 
Considering the parched character of the whole 
neighbourhood, I was surprised to find a few diim 
palms at the border of the channel, while the whole 
neighbourhood was almost destitute of trees. 
Tuesday, ^ short march of a little less than six miles, 
July 12th. m com p anv with the son of the old governor, 
brought us from here to Dore. The country through 
which we passed bore at the time the character of 
