Chap. LXII. FI'lIYO, A SONGHAY VILLAGE. 309 
a very heavy thunder-storm broke out, accompanied 
by violent rain, which lasted till noon, and rendered 
us extremely uncomfortable. My friend El Walati, 
being of a weak and nervous temperament, was, 
as usual on such occasions, laid up with fever. In 
consequence of the state of the weather, it was not 
till past three o'clock in the afternoon that we at 
length set out on our watery march, and after a stretch 
of about ten miles, having passed a very extensive and 
deep water, reached the Songhay village of Filiyo, and 
with extreme difficulty obtained most indifferent and 
damp quarters in the dark. The whole village is 
built of clay, with elevated towerlike entrances not 
unlike the granaries in Champagore. It consists of 
several detached groups, which are separated by corn- 
fields, where the crops were standing moderately high. 
The inhabitants belong exclusively to the Songhay 
race, with the exception of a few Fulbe, who, however, 
have themselves almost changed their national cha- 
racter; and although the village is externally sub- 
jected to the Piillo governor of Gilgoji, or Jilgodi, 
nevertheless the people have a very independent de- 
meanour, and hold in detestation the conquering tribe 
of the Fulbe : even their carriage bears evident tes- 
timony to a certain feeling of liberty ; and there is no 
end of smoking. The women wear a profusion of 
ornaments, while all of them are, besides, distinguished 
by a copper ring round the wrist. 
Having arrived so late the preceding evening that 
the horses had even remained without food, I was 
x 3 
