34 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. XXIII. 
of red silk ornamented with enormous tassels. He 
was mounted on a splendid charger, the head and 
neck of which was most fancifully ornamented with 
a profusion of tassels, bells, and little leather pockets 
containing charms, while from under the saddle a 
shabrack peeped out, consisting of little triangular 
patches in all the colours of the rainbow. 
This little African dandy received me with a pro- 
fusion of the finest compliments, pronounced with 
the most refined and sweet accent of which the 
Hausa language is capable. When he was gone, my 
old friend Elaiji informed me that he had prevented 
the " consul of the Arabs " from exacting a present 
from me, and begged me to acknowledge his service 
by a cup of coffee, which of course I granted him 
with all my heart. Poor old Elaiji ! He died in the 
year 1854, in the forest between Gazawa andKatsena, 
where from the weakness of age he lost his way when 
left alone. He has left on my memory an image 
which I shall always recall with pleasure. He was 
certainly the most honourable and religious man 
among the Kel-owi. 
The market in our encampment, which continued 
till nightfall, reached its highest pitch at sunset, when 
the people of the town brought ready-made " tiiwo," 
each dish, with rather a small allowance, selling for 
three kurdi, or not quite the fourth part of a farthing. 
I, however, was happy in not being thrown upon 
this three-kurdi supper ; and while I indulged in my 
own home-made dish, Gajere entertained me with the 
