Chap. XXV. 
INTERIOR OF KANO'. 
103 
most animated and exciting scene. As far as the 
market-place I had already proceeded on foot ; but 
Bawu, as soon as he saw me, had hurried me back 
to my lodgings, as having not yet been formally re- 
ceived by the governor. But no one on foot can get 
a correct idea of an African town, confined as he is on 
every side by the fences and walls, while on horse- 
back he obtains an insight into all the courtyards, 
becomes an eye-witness of scenes of private life, and 
often with one glance surveys a whole town. 
Passing through the market-place, which had only 
begun to collect its crowds, and crossing the narrow 
neck of land which divides the characteristic pool 
" Jakara," we entered the quarters of the ruling race, 
the Fulbe or Fellani, where conical huts of thatch- 
work, and the gonda-tree, are prevalent, and where 
most beautiful and lively pictures of nature meet the 
eye on all sides. Thus we proceeded, first to the 
house of the gado (the Lord of the Treasury), who 
had already called several times at my house, and 
acted as the mediator between me and the governor. 
His house was a most interesting specimen of the 
domestic arrangements of the Fulbe, who, however 
civilized they may have become, do not disown their 
original character as " berroroji," or nomadic cattle- 
breeders. His courtyard, though in the middle of 
the town, looked like a farm-yard, and could not be 
conscientiously commended for its cleanliness. Hav- 
ing with difficulty found a small spot to sit down 
upon without much danger of soiling our clothes, we 
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