Chap. XXVI. ENDURANCE OF THE TRAVELLER. 161 
European seemed to have changed places : and in 
order to contribute something to our repast, I went to 
the market and bought a couple of young onions. 
Eeally it is incredible what a European traveller in 
these countries has to endure ; for while he must 
bear infinitely more fatigue, anxiety, and mental 
exertion than any native traveller, he is deprived of 
even the little comfort which the country affords — 
has no one to cook his supper, and to take care of 
him when he falls sick, or to shampoo him ; 
" And, ah ! no wife or mother's care 
For him the milk or corn prepare." 
Leaving my companion to indulge in the " kief" of 
the Osmanli, of which he possessed a great deal, I 
preferred roving about. I observed that during the 
rainy season a great deal of water must collect here, 
which probably explains the luxurious vegetation 
and the splendid foliage of the trees hereabouts ; and 
I was confirmed in my observation by my companion, 
who had travelled through this district during the 
rainy season, and was strongly impressed with the 
difficulties arising from the water, which covers a 
great part of the surface. 
Having allowed our people, who by this time had 
come up, to have a considerable start in advance of 
us, we followed at length, entering underwood, from 
which we did not emerge till we arrived near Gerki. 
According to instructions received from us, our people 
had already chosen the camping-ground on the north- 
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