180 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. XXVI. 
or by frankness, though in other respects he was an 
excellent lad. 
I obtained, however, all that I wanted, the go- 
vernor assigning me immediately a man who should 
accompany me to Ghaladima 'Omar, the governor 
of Bundi, and I was glad that he did not grumble 
at my present, which consisted only of a small 
phial of rose oil and a quarter of a pound of cloves. 
The best and most usual present for the governors 
on this road, who are justly entitled to some gift, 
as no tolls are to be paid, is a subeta, or white 
shawl with reel or yellow border, such as are brought 
from Egypt, which may be accompanied with some 
spices. The old man also sent me, after a little 
while, when I had returned to my quarters, a dish 
which at least was not richer than my present, con- 
sisting in a very unpalatable paste of Negro corn, 
with a nasty sauce of miya, or molukhiya. Hausa 
with its delicacies was behind us ; and I was unable 
to procure, either for hospitality's sake or for money, 
a dish of " fura," which I had become very fond of. 
The heat was very great, though a light fresh breeze 
from the east made it supportable ; and my new guide 
seemed by no means so anxious to go on as I was, 
so that I was obliged to search for him a long while. 
Having at length laid hold of him we started, passing 
through an undulating country without cultivation, 
and covered only with brushwood, and with the 
dreadfully monotonous kawo or Asclepias, when after 
three miles it became a little varied by underwood, 
