Chap. XXVIII. ENTRANCE INTO KU'KAWA. 
243 
and that if I waited for them we should find no quar- 
ters prepared for us, I spurred on my nag, and soon 
reached the western suburb of Kukawa. 
Proceeding with some hesitation towards the white 
clay wall which encircles the town, and which from a 
little distance could scarcely be distinguished from the 
adjoining ground, I entered the gate, being gazed at by 
a number of people collected here, and who were still 
more surprised when I inquired for the residence of 
the sheikh. Then passing the little daily market (the 
dyrriya), which was crowded with people, I rode along 
the dendal, or promenade, straight up to the palace, 
which borders the promenade towards the east. It 
is flanked by a very indifferent mosque, built likewise 
of clay, with a tower at its N. W. corner, while houses 
of grandees inclose the place on the north and south 
sides. The only ornament of this place is a fine 
chedia or caoutchouc-tree in front of the house of ' Ali 
Ladan, on the south side ; but occasionally it becomes 
enlivened by interesting groups of Arabs and native 
courtiers in all the finery of their dress, and of their 
richly caparisoned horses. 
The sheikh, though he usually resides in his palace 
in the eastern town, was at present here ; and 
the slaves stared at me, without understanding, or 
caring to understand, what I wanted, until Diggama, 
the storekeeper, was called, who, knowing something 
of me as f Abd el Kerim, ordered a slave to conduct 
me to the vizier. Though I had heard some account 
of the sheikh living out of the western town, I was 
B 2 
