Chap. XXXII. MARKET OF UJE'. 
371 
see a single individual in the market who by his dress 
did not bear testimony to his Mohammedan profession. 
Making several times the round of the market, I 
greatly excited the astonishment of the native traders, 
who had never seen a European. I then started with 
Billama on an excursion to Alawo, the burial place of 
the great Bornu king Edrfs Alaw6ma, although the 
weather was extremely sultry, and the sun almost 
insupportable. The whole country is densely inha- 
bited ; and my companion, who had formerly been go- 
vernor of the district, was everywhere kindly saluted 
by the inhabitants, particularly the women, who would 
kneel down by the roadside to pay him their respects. 
However, I was prevented from seeing the sepulchre 
itself by an immense morass extending in front of 
the town of Alawo, and the turning of which would 
have demanded a great circuit. Numberless flocks of 
waterfowl enlivened it, while rank herbage and dense 
forest bordered it all round. 
We therefore thought it better to return, particu- 
larly as a storm was evidently gathering ; but we first 
went to an encampment of Shuwa, where we found a 
numerous family engaged, under the shade of a wide- 
spreading ngabbore, in all the various occupations 
of household work; but we were very inhospitably 
received when we begged for something to drink. 
I shall often have occasion to mention the inhospi- 
tality of these people, whom I was sometimes inclined 
to take for Jews by descent, rather than real Arabs. 
Passing then the village Palamari, and keeping along 
B B 2 
