488 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. XXXYI. 
and not quite at my ease, and therefore could not 
much enjoy a dish of an extremely good pudding of 
bairi or sorghum, with excellent clear butter, and a 
large bowl of milk ; but nevertheless, although a 
storm, accompanied with much rain, broke out in 
the evening and rendered the air rather humid, I 
remained the whole night where I was, instead of 
retiring into the well-protected though rather sultry 
hut. 
Saturday, ^ n tne morn i n g I selected my presents 
June 21st. f or the governor, the principal part of which 
consisted of a very handsome red cloth bernus, which 
we had found among the things left by the late Mr. 
Richardson ; but when we were ready to go we re- 
ceived the information that Lowel was in his fields, and 
that we could not see him. Meanwhile I received a 
visit from an Arab from the far distant west, with whom 
I had made acquaintance in Kukawa, and who had 
given me some very valuable information. It was El 
Mukhtar, of the tribe of the Idesan in Bdghena, who 
had previously paid a visit to A'damawa, and was well 
acquainted with the country. It is always very 
pleasant for a traveller to meet another roving spirit 
somewhere again, particularly in a country like Central 
Africa. Having acknowledged his visit by the gift 
of a knife and a little frankincense, I presented our 
host, the Ardo Ghammawa, with a fine " riga giwa" 
(an " elephant- shirt ") — that is to say, one of those 
enormous wide black shirts made only in Nupe, and 
which was one of the few articles which I had been. 
