Chap. XXXVI. AN ARAB TRAVELLER. 
489 
able to provide in Kan6 for the furtherance of my 
plans. The family of the Ardo had formerly been 
settled in Ghammawa, in the south-western province 
of B6rnu, but, when the Fiilbe were driven back 
from that country, emigrated and settled here. But 
this man still bears the title u Ardo Ghammawa " 
— " the mayor of (the Fiilbe community of) Gham- 
mawa." 
Having been told that the governor had returned 
to his palace, we mounted on horseback about ten 
o'clock, and, preceded by the Ardo Ghammawa, re- 
turned the long way to the lamorde or palace ; but 
after waiting on the damp ground, exposed to the 
sun for more than an hour, we were told that we 
could not see him, and were obliged to return with 
our present. I was greatly vexed, and felt, in con- 
sequence, my fever increasing, especially as another 
very heavy storm broke out in the afternoon, when the 
air became quite chilly. However, I was somewhat 
cheered by making acquaintance in the afternoon with 
an Arab from Mokha, of the name of Mohammed ben 
A'hmed, who styled himself sherif, most probably 
rather pleonastically ; but, apart from such preten- 
sion, he was an amiable and most interesting man, 
who had travelled for many years over the whole 
eastern coast of the continent between Mombasa and 
Sof&la. He was the first to satisfy my curiosity 
with a description of the celebrated Lake Nyassa as 
an eye-witness. Fie had even visited Bombay and 
Madras. 
