Bulb, if kept out of the ground, in a cold and moist place, so that vitality is not weakened, 
and planted in January, will flower in thirty or forty days. The Hollanders informed us that 
the best way to force early flowers is to pot the bulbs as early as possible, sink the pots in the earth 
in the garden, so that the bulbs will be covered several inches, and there let them remain a couple 
©f weeks or more. Then remove to the green-house or room where they are to flower, giving 
warmth, air and moisture pretty freely. 
Support for Hyacinths, — When in flower, the tall Hyacinths need some 
support for the flower stem, and various contrivances of wire, &c,, have been 
devised, but we have seen nothing so simple and effective as we show in the 
engraving. It is made of hard wood and fastened to the neck of the glass by 
a string. Any one, in a few minutes, with a sharp knife, can make this sup- 
port, A brass or other wire can also be attached to the glass very readily. 
Bulbs in the Garden. — Nothing makes a prettier bed in the garden than 
Hyacinths and Tulips. For a ribbon bed composed of three or more colors, 
we know of nothing that excels the Tulip. 
Care of Bulbs after Flowering. — When Bulbs have been flowered in 
water, they should, as soon as the flowers begin to fade, be removed and 
planted in earth, where they will get a little nourishment for the future good 
of the Bulb. Even then the Bulb is much weakened, and it is useless to try 
to flower Bulbs in water twice, though they will answer for the garden. 
All Bulbs with annual roots, which includes pretty much all but the Lilies, 
can be taken up, as soon as the leaves become ripe and brown, and be stowed 
away without the least injury to the flowers of the next season, because the 
roots will die if the Bulbs are allowed to remain in the ground. After taking 
them up, allow them to dry in the shade for a few days. Then remove the 
tops, roots and rough skin, and put them away in paper bags, properly labelled, 
in a cool place in the house until planting time in the Autumn. Look at them 
occasionally during the summer to see that they are receiving no injury. If 
HYACINTH SUPPORT the bcds are needed for other plants, so as to have a continuous show of 
flowers, the plants can be set when young between the rows of Bulbs, and before the space is 
needed by the new crop the Bulbs will have ripened their leaves, and will receive no injury from 
the new occupants, and the old Bulbs can remain in the ground. They may, however, be removed 
as soon as flowering is over and replanted in some corner of the garden, there to remain until 
ripe, or until time for planting in the beds again in Autumn. Hyacinths gradually deteriorate in 
this country, but Tulips and almost all other Bulbs retain their good character and increase in number. 
HYACINTHS. 
The Hyacinth is the most beautiful and fragrant and popular of the Bulbous flowers, and 
seems particularly designed for house culture. It is cultivated in every Northern country m the 
world, where it does more than any other flower to make winter cheerful. A very small pot 
will answer for the Hyacinth, but some prefer to plant three or four in a large pot, and this 
makes a very pretty ornament. Fill the pot with sandy, porous soil. Make a space in the 
soil for the bulb, so that it will be about half below the earth, then press the bulb down so that it 
will just show its upper surface above the soil, then water, giving all the earth will hold. The 
pots can now be set away in a cool, dark cellar for several weeks, where they will make roots, but 
the top will advance but little. By removing a few at a time into a warm, light room, something 
of a succession can be kept up. When we speak of a warm room for bulbs we do not mean 75 
or 80 degrees, but less than 70, if possible. 
When placed in glasses for winter flowering the base of the bulb should just touch the water; 
it will soon evaporate so that the water is a little below the base of the bulb, and this is as it should 
be. Set them away in a cool place, as recommended for Hyacinths in pots. As soon as 
flower buds appear, sprinkling the leaves and buds is of benefit, and give plenty of light and 
air, and as moist an atmosphere as possible. No Hyacinth can do itself justice if flowered in a 
room ranging from seventy-five to eighty degrees, and dry as well as hot. 
A good plan is to keep a stand containing the stock of Hyacinths in a parlor or hall, which 
is kept most of the time at a low temperature. From this room they can be taken as needed 
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