324 
COTTON 
shafts, though there may be as many as six when 
twills and sateen are made, while fancy looms and 
Jacquard looms possess a great many more — 
sometimes as many as twenty-five or thirty. 
The harness in connection with the hand loom 
is controlled by the action of the weaver's foot on 
the treddles. The shuttle is propelled by hand, 
and the stroke of the handle or batten, usually 
hung from an elevated stand, is also made by 
hand. 
OPERATION IN WEAVING 
In plain weaving all threads are drawn through 
the harness shafts. In the middle of each harness 
is a small eye, through which each individual 
thread is drawn, the thread passing through the 
harness shafts alternately. On the front harness 
shaft you will find one of these and another on the 
back. This enables one-half of the threads to be 
raised in one pick of filling. This pick simply 
lays in the filling thread, which is accomplished by 
the shuttle passing between; the first harness is 
lowered while the second harness is raised, and 
another pick of filling is inserted. This operation 
goes on, one thread at a time, until the desired 
length of cloth is woven. 
By raising the warp threads in the fabric diagon- 
ally, we have still a higher step in weaving. This 
is known as drill or twill weaving. In drill weav- 
ing three harnesses are used usually, and in twill 
four or more. 
The making of sateen is another step in advance; 
here five or six, or even eight, harnesses are gener- 
ally used, sometimes as many as twelve or four- 
teen. You are familiar with the lustrous appear- 
