NURSERY IN CALIFORNIA— ESTABLISHED 1865 
49 
Cherokee Roses 
Rose growing is a specialty with us. One of the influences that originally determined the loca- 
tion of our nursery at Niles was the fact that soil and climate were most perfectly adapted to the 
growth of splendid plants of this beautiful and favorite flower. To these natural advantages we add 
many years of experience and experiment, so that we honestly believe that no better roses than ours 
are grown anywhere. 
Our assortment is constantly changing. Unbss a variety has some marked point in its favor, 
it is dropped. New varieties are constantly being t ested, and if found valuable are propagated and 
offered for sale. 
Every rosebush we sell ia grown entirely in the open ground and almost all are budded. In 
spite of the pretended objections offered by disseminators of weak plants on their own roots, there is 
absolutely no doubt that the budded plants are f ir superior. (There are a very few unimportant 
exceptions and these we grow from cuttings, anyway.) The only possible objection is that the 
budded may send up suckers but as we use the right kind of stocks and carefully disbud them, this 
is very unlikely to occur. A further preventive is to plant them so that the point where they have 
been budded shall be three or four inches below the surface. 
The abbreviations following the variety refer first to the family the rose belongfs to. To illustrate 
(H. P. HYBRID PERPETUAL.) Then the name of the originator when known. After this the year the 
variety was introduced. For example: LOS ANGELES, HOWARD and SMITH, 1915. 
PLANTING AND PRUNING 
Roses will grow and bloom if planted with only 
ordinary care, but far better results will be 
obtained with a little extra attention to details. 
The ground should be thoroughly spaded and, 
unless very rich, should have some well-rotted 
manure worked in. Fresh manure is likely to kill 
the plants unless placed on the surface as a 
mulch after planting is completed. If soil is light 
and sandy, it is well to work in a good proportion 
of heavy soil. The bushes are partially pruned 
before leaving the nursery. Climbers and very 
strong varieties may be planted as they are, but 
weak growers should be pruned back even 
further. Examine the roots carefully; if calluses 
have formed at the tips, let them remain as they 
are. Where the ends show no calluses, cut off the 
tips so that the fresh wood will come into close 
contact with the soil. Straighten out all roots 
and as the dirt is filled in see to it that it is well 
packed around them; this keeps out the air and 
encourages a prompt growth of rootlets. Be 
sure that the rose is planted enough lower than it 
grew so that the point where it is budded shall 
be three or four inches beneath the surface. If 
the plants are at all dry, soak them overnight in 
a bucket of water before planting. 
Tree roses are to be handled in about the same 
way. They are pruned back pretty well before 
shipment. It is absolutely necessary to stake 
them when planted and to keep them staked there- 
after, as the stems never attain sufficient strength 
to support the heavy top during severe winds. 
Further pruning varies with different classes 
of roses, but all should be cut back at least once 
a year before new growth has started. Weak 
growers require the most pruning, strong growers 
the least. In all cases the short, crooked growth 
should be removed entirely and the strongest 
shoots cut back moderately, leaving enough to 
form a basis for new growth. When pruning 
standards it is necessary to give attention to the 
form of the head, so that it may remain symmet- 
rical and globular. 
MILDEW AND APHIS 
When the leaves show a whitish mould, they 
are attacked by mildew, which is a fungus disease 
developing rapidly under certain climatic condi- 
tions. It is far worse in some sections than 
others, and certain varieties are particularly sub- 
ject to it. The remedy is powdered sulphur ap- 
plied promptly as soon as the disease appears. 
This should be done in the morning while the dew 
is still on the plants. Put the powdered sulphur 
in a piece of burlap and sift it as evenly as pos- 
sible all over the foliage. 
Aphis or Green Flies are the little sucking 
insects that attack the new soft wood. They are 
usually kept in check where the plants are 
sprinkled daily with a strong stream of water. 
If this cannot be done, remove as many as pos- 
sible when they first appear and sprinkle the 
plants well with tobacco water in which a little 
whale-oil soap has been dissolved. They multiply 
with wonderful rapidity, so it may be necessary 
to repeat the treatment two or three times. 
DESCRIPTIONS 
Varieties are first divided into classes. The 
characteristics of each class are fully explained 
below and the abbreviations are used in designat- 
ing the class of each variety. 
After the names of varieties we give name of 
