Chap. LXXIII. CAMP OF THE KE'L-N-NOKU'NDER. 99 
character, and presents a very different spectacle 
at various seasons of the year. During the highest 
state of the inundation, only the loftiest downs rise 
above the surface of the water like separate islands, 
and are only accessible by boats during the summer ; 
while the low swampy grounds, laid bare and fertilised 
by the retiring waters, afford excellent pastures 
to innumerable herds of cattle. Even at present, while 
the sun was setting, the whole tract through which 
we were proceeding along the downs was enveloped 
in dense clouds of dust, raised by the numerous herds 
of the Kel-n-Nokiinder, who were returning to their 
encampment. Here we were most joyfully received 
by the followers of the Sheikh, who had been waiting 
already several days for us, and I received especially 
a most cordial welcome from my young friend 
Mohammed ben Khottdr, the Sheikhas nephew, whom 
I esteemed greatly on account of his intelligent and 
chivalrous character. He informed me how anxious 
they had been on my account, owing to our continued 
delay. Having brought no tent with me, a large 
leathern one was pitched, and I was hospitably treated 
with milk and rice. 
The Kel-n-Nokiinder are a division of the nume- 
rous tribe of the Fdendn, and although in a political 
respect they do not enjoy the privileges of full liberty 
and nobility, yet, protected by the Kunta, and the 
Sheikh El Bakay in particular, they have succeeded 
in retaining possession of a considerable number of 
cattle. All of them are tolba, that is to say, students ; 
H 2 
