100 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. LXXIII. 
and they are all able to read. Some of them can even 
write, although the Tdendn cannot now boast of men 
distinguished for great learning as they could in 
former times. 
All these people who come under the category of 
tolba, are distinguished by their fair complexion, 
and do not possess the muscular frame common 
among the free rm6shagh. Their fair complexion 
is the more conspicuous, as the men, with scarcely 
an exception, wear white shirts and white turbans. 
All of them took a great interest in me, and looked 
with extreme curiosity upon the few European ar- 
ticles which I had with me at the time. After some 
little delay the next morning we left the place, and 
at that time I little fancied that I was soon to visit 
this spot again. It is called Ernesse, or Niikkaba el 
kebira, the great (sandy) down. 
Having this time excellent guides with us who knew 
the difficult ground thoroughly, after leaving the 
sandy downs, we struck right across the swampy 
meadow grounds, so that we reached our encamp- 
ment on the other side of Amalelle in a much shorter 
time than on our out journey, while by continual 
windings we almost entirely avoided the swamps; 
but, without a good guide, no one can enter these low 
lands, which constitute a very remarkable feature in 
the character of the river. One of the Kel-n-No- 
kiinder, of the name of Ay6ba, whom I had occasion- 
ally seen in the town, and who was not less distin- 
guished by his loquacity than by his activity, here 
