152 
TRAVELS m AFRICA. 
Chap. LXXV. 
smaller branch dries up to sucli an extent, that a 
person may enter the place without wetting his feet ; 
but this happens at a season when their tormentors 
the Tawarek leave the banks of the river and retire 
inland, so that they suffer but little from them. This 
year the high state of the inundation had inspired 
them with so much confidence, that they had refused 
their boats to the tabu, or the army of their great 
liege lord himself. The river had risen to such an 
elevation, that it had reached their very huts, which, 
separated into three distinct groups, are situated on a 
slightly rising ground. 
The inhabitants, even in the present reduced state 
of the country, raise a good deal of rice and tobacco, 
though the cultivation ought to be much more ex- 
tensive, if we consider the wide expanse of the lovi 
swampy ground which is reached by the inunda- 
tion. The river, indeed, is at such a distance, that 
it is not seen at all, being hidden behind the sandy 
downs which form its inner bank. But it is re- 
markable that the nutritious grass, the byrgu, which 
I have so repeatedly mentioned, was almost wanting 
here, and the cattle of the village were obliged to 
be driven to a great distance, so that, notwithstand- 
ing the richness of the pasture-grounds in general, I 
was in want of milk. 
We remained here the following day, and after a 
very cold morning, which seemed rather remarkable 
in the month of May, I took a walk up the gradually 
rising downs, which partly consisted of sand and 
