160 
TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Chap. LXXV. 
Morocco. But, while in former times they were the 
ruling race, at present they drag on a rather miserable 
existence, the protection of the Kunta beiug scarcely 
sufficient to defend them against the daily contribu- 
tions levied upon them by the overbeariug rulers 
of the desert. A short time previously the chief Sa- 
daktu had driven away almost all their cattle. 
While awaiting the camels, I sat down on a cliff 
overhanging the steep bank, which here was about 
twenty-five feet in height, and enjoyed the splendid 
view over that great watery highroad of West- Cen- 
tral Africa. The waves of the river were raised by 
a strong wind, and offered considerable resistance to 
some light boats endeavouring to reach the opposite 
shore. My companions soon observed the interest 
which I took in the scene, and my amiable friend, the 
Sheikh's nephew, joined me here to enjoy the pleasant 
prospect. He was glad to find that, since we were 
fairly proceeding on our journey, my mind had be- 
come far easier and more cheerful. He often spoke 
with me about my happy return to my native coun- 
try ; and I expressed to him the wish that he might 
accompany me, and witness for himself some of the 
achievements of Europeans. He had been to this 
place several times before, and had alwa3^s taken 
great interest in the difference in the nature of the 
river, which, from spreading out over flat swampy 
shores with numerous backwaters, with a few ex- 
ceptions, here becomes compressed between high 
banks ; and he again repeated to me his account of 
