Chap.lxxxi. je^ga.— cheering eecognition. 325 
year. A month later it would be entirely impassable 
for a European traveller encumbered with any 
amount of luggage. But the road was tolerably 
well frequented, and we were met by a long train of 
broad-shouldered square built Niipe females, each 
with a load of from six to eight enormous calabashes 
on her head, journeying to the Friday market of 
J ega. 
This is the important place, which, under the com- 
mand of 'Abd e' Salam, had made a long and success- 
ful resistance against the author of the reformatory 
movement of the Fiilbe, and which, on account of its 
mercantile importance, had attracted attention in 
Europe a good many years ago ; and although it has 
declined at present from its former importance, it was 
still of sufficient consequence to make me desirous of 
visiting it ; but the great quantity of rain which fell 
at this time by rendering the communication very dif- 
ficult for loaded camels, prevented me from executing 
my design. A little further on I met with one of 
those incidents which, although simple and unim- 
portant in their character, yet often serve to cheer 
the solitary traveller in foreign countries, more than 
the most brilliant reception. After having crossed a 
valley, we were ascending the last rocky passage 
before coming to Gando, when we met here a troop 
of men, and as soon as one of them saw me in the 
distance, he broke out into the cheering exclamation, 
Mdrhaba, marhaba, *Abd el Kerim." It was highly 
gratifying to me when returning after a long absence 
y 3 
