70 CALIFORNIA NURSERY COMPANY 
Suggestions for Planting and Pruning 
Iff 
Ornamentals 
In our climate the best time for planting both evergreen and deciduous trees is after the heavy frosts have subsided 
and sufficient rain has fallen to wret the ground thoroughly. The proper conditions generally obtain during January, 
February and March. Palms move best in late spring and early summer. The foregoing applies particularly to plants 
that have to be dug from the open ground; those grown in pots, and also plants established in boxes, can be planted at any 
time if they receive proper care and attention. 
The holes should always be made much larger than merely enough to contain the ball or roots, and then filled in again, 
putting the best soil nearest the roots. The burlap must never be removed from balled plants; it soon rots and cannot 
possibly do any harm. To remove it is to risk breaking the ball, which usually means the loss of the plant. When plant 
comes boxed, remove only the bottom at first. After it is In the hole and standing just as it is going to remain, the sides 
can be taken oft and the dirt filled in. If the weather is hot, it is a good plan to let the top of evergreens stay tied up for a 
few days, which greatly reduces evaporation and helps the tree to get established. Keep the tops well sprayed. In planting 
deciduous trees and shrubs which are shipped with bare roots, be certain that the dirt is packed and rammed just as tightly 
as possible around the roots; only on the very surface should the soil be loose. Never put manure in among the roots when 
planting. It can be spread on top of the ground around the plant, where it will act as a mulch. XJsed In this way, it is an 
advantage; putting it in around the roots generally kills the plant. 
Deciduous trees should be pruned in proportion to the amount of roots lost in transplanting. The natural shape should 
be preserved as much as possible. Where a clean trunk is wanted, the lower limbs should be shortened in, but not 
cut off close. Leave part of these branches so that the new growth may shade the trunk. They can be removed gradually 
as the tree attains growth. In very hot districts the bare part of the trimk should be shaded on the southwest side by plac- 
ing a board in the proper position or wrapping it with biu-lap. Whitewashing the trunk in addition to this is very bene- 
ficial. The idea of this is to prevent injury by sunburn, which is usually an invitation to borers to enter the tree. 
Most trees should be firmly staked when planted, as this will prevent heavy winds from loosening them and insures 
a straight growth. This is a very important precaution with both deciduous and evergreen trees and is too often neglected. 
In fastening the tree to the stake, take pains to do it so the tree will not be chafed or choked by the rope. 
Proper painting, while of the very greatest importance, is really only a good start in the right direction. Trees may 
live if neglected, but they will come very far from attaining perfection. Never let them get dry the first summer. When 
you water the ground around them, see that it is thoroughly soaked. This is vastly better than giving them a little water 
continually. The tops will appreciate almost daily spraying during the driest weather. Keep the ground around your 
plants and trees thoroughly loose and preferably mulched as well. Good stock properly planted and cared for will more than 
repay all expenditure of time and money. 
Fruit Trees 
We ship to sections of such diversified climatic conditions that specific directions for general use are not advisable. 
There are, however, practices to be followed in any and all sections which we will outline briefly. 
PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
The ground should be plowed at least twice, and the second plowing should be as deep as can be done, using a subsoil plow. The ground 
should be well drained so that no stagnant water remains about the roots. 
HEELINQ IN 
On receipt of the trees, open a ditch in loose soil, unpack the trees, being careful to shake out all packing material, put in the trench 
side by side and cover the roots with fine earth, being careful that it is well filtered among the roots to keep them moist. Never heel in 
in bundles. 
PLANTma 
The holes should be dug at least eight inches to one foot larger iu every direction than required by the roots when spread out in their 
natural position. The top soil should be broken down from the edge, and raised to a cone in the center of the hole to set the tree on, and 
the roots then brought to their natural position. While one man is holding the tree, let the other shovel in the top soil, which should be 
made quite fine, carefully between the roots until covered, then tramp firmly as the filling up progresses; when nearly all filled in, place 
two inches of fine, loose soil on the top. 
The tree when planted may in light soil stand from two to three inches deeper than it stood in the Nurserj'. but in heavy clay, or 
wet ground, it is advisable to have it stand at the same height as it was before transplanting. 
PRUNING 
The tops should be shortened in more or less, depending on size, variety and condition of the trees. In commercial orchards one-year- 
old trees are cut down from IS inches to 2 feet above ground, and all side limbs are cut to one or two buds; two-year-old trees with formed 
tops should be shortened in from G inches to 1 foot of main stem. 
No summer pruning should be done the first year; strong-growing side Hmb.s on lower part of the tree can be shortened in from 6 
inches to 1 foot from stem, so that the leaves left will shade the tree. 
SHADING 
On acooimt of our long, hot, dry summers, it is well to shade the sunny aide of the tree to prevent sun-^oald. This will keep the 
borers out, as they never attack a tree except at a point of injury. The sliading can be done with a board or shook, or else with a piece 
of burlap wound loosely about the trunk. Whitewash is also a good protection, aa it reflects the heat. 
ATTER CULTURE 
The success of the newely planted trees depends on the care received the first three months after planting. The ground should be kept 
clean, loose and cultivated after each rain. Should the ground be dry and the trees not start well, scoop out a basin around each tree, 
pour in two or three buckets of water, and soon us dry fill in the isoil again, breaking it up fine to hold moisture. 
