THE CHASE NURSERIES, GENEVA, NEW YORK 
75 
PLANTING, continued 
one holds the tree upright, let the other fill rich, mellow earth carefully in among the roots, 
stamping each shovelful firmly in so that all the roots will come in direct contact with the soil 
and no air reach them. When the roots are all covered, a pail of water should be thrown in to 
settle the earth around them. When the hole is entirely filled, the soil should be as firm as the 
surrounding surface. 
Remove all label wires from the trees, that they may not cut the branches; keep a record or 
map of the names and varieties planted. If the trees are tall or much exposed to winds, tie to a 
stake in such a manner as to prevent chafing. 
Important. — As soon as planted, a mulching of 3 or 4 inches of coarse manure, straw, or 
dead leaves, should be placed about the tree to keep the ground moist. In orchards, instead of 
a mulch, cowpeas or the Canadian field-pea may be used for this purpose with excellent 
results. In plowed land, they can be sown broadcast and either cut and cured for fodder, or in 
midsummer cut with a disc-harrow, and then plowed under the following spring. If trees are 
planted in sod land, these peas can be worked around the tree and in midsummer trampled 
down or cut and allowed to remain on the ground. 
When stock is planted in the fall, earth should be banked up about it so that the water will 
run off instead of settling about the roots where it might freeze and kill them. Early the following 
spring this dirt should be leveled down and the tree mulched or peas sown, as stated above. 
AFTER-CULTURE 
The general directions are to keep the soil loose and moist by frequent cultivation. We do 
not approve of raising grain or field corn, or seeding with permanent grasses, in an orchard, but 
sugar corn and vegetables may be grown if the ground is well fertilized and plenty of potash used. 
FERTILIZERS 
Wood-ashes are unquestionably the best fertilizer for all kinds of fruit trees but nursery 
stock of all kinds will be benefited by the liberal use of any well-rotted manure. 
PRUNING 
This, as a rule, should be done in March, or earlier, before the sap begins to flow. It is well 
to remember that pruning fruit trees is largely a matter of common sense, and that the object is 
to form a well-shaped tree, to allow the sun and air to get at the fruit, and to check a too 
rapid growth of wood, thereby throwing the sap into the fruit buds. If the tree is growing tall and 
rampant, cut it back; if all the limbs grow inward, thin them out in such a manner that the re- 
maining branches will make an outward growth, that the sun and air may be let in. 
Grapes. Permit the vines to grow the first season without pruning. In November or Decem- 
ber following, cut back the growth, allowing but three or four buds to remain. The next spring 
allow but two of the strongest buds to throw out shoots. These, in the fall, will be from 5 to 7 feet 
long, and should be fastened to the lower part of the trellis. When growth commences, pinch the 
buds so that the shoots will be from 10 to 12 inches apart. 
Currants and Gooseberries. The vigor of the plants may be kept up for many years by 
cutting out all wood that shows signs of failing, and by annually cutting back or thinning out 
the young shoots. 
Raspberries and Blackberries. If the reader will bear in mind the following points, it will 
aid him much in the intelligent pruning of Raspberries and Blackberries. 
The canes are produced one season, bear fruit the next, and then die. After the canes have 
produced one crop of fruit, they are of no more use, and should be removed. The roots contin- 
ually furnish new suckers or canes, which, in their turn, bear one crop of fruit and then die. The 
point to be borne in mind is to do away entirely with the wood which has already produced its 
fruit, and to train the coming fruit-bearing wood in such a manner as to be self-supporting, and 
produce the most fruit. 
Roses. Tender varieties and climbers need but little cutting back, except to make the bush 
of good shape, but hardy varieties must be severely pruned each year. Do not be afraid to cut 
them well back, as the blooms are produced on the new wood. 
Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, etc. These require but little pruning after the first year, except 
to remove a branch here and there which may spoil their appearance, and to keep them in sym- 
metrical shape. 
