TBANSPLANTINi^ DIEEGTIONS, 
Ist. THE PREPARATION OF THE SOIL.— For Fruit Trees (excepting the Quince) the 
soil should be dry, either naturally or made so by thorough drainage, as they will not live or thrive 
on a soil constantly saturated with stagnant moisture. To ensure good trees, land should be in 
as good condition as for a crop of wheat, corn or potatoes. 
2d. THE PREPARATION OF THE TREES.— In regard to this important question, there 
are more fatal errors committed than in any other. As a general thing, trees are planted in the 
ground precisely as they are sent from the Nursery. In removing trees, no matter how carefully 
it may be done, a portion of the roots are broken or destroyed, and consequently the balance that 
existed in the structure of the tree is deranged. This must be restored by a proper pruning, 
adapted to the size, form and condition of the tree, as follows : 
STANDARD ORCHARD TREES. — These as sent from the Nursery, vary from five to seven 
feet in height, with naked stems or trunks, and a number of branches at the top, forming a head. 
These branches should be cut back to within three or four buds of their base. This lessens the 
demand upon the roots, and enables the remaining buds to push with vigor. In the case of older 
trees of extra size, the pruning must be in proportion ; as a general thing, it will be safe to shorten 
the previous year's shoots to three or four buds at their base, and where the branches are very 
numerous some may be cut out entirely. 
3d. PLANTING. — Dig holes, in the first place, large enough to admit the roots of the tree 
to spread out in their natural position. Then having the tree pruned as above directed, let one 
person hold it in an upright position, and the other shovel in the earth, carefully putting the finest 
and best from the surface in among the roots, filling every space and bringing the roots in contact 
with the soil. When the earth is nearly filled in, a pail of water may be thrown on to settle and 
wash in the earth around the roots ; then fill in the remainder, and tread gently with the foot. The 
use of water is seldom necessary, except in dry. weather, early in the fall, or late in the spring. 
Guard against planting too deep; the trees, after the ground settles, should stand in this respect as 
they did in the Nursery. Trees on dwarf stocks should stand so that all Iht stock be under the 
ground, and no more. In very dry, gravelly ground, the holes should be dug twice the usual size 
and depth, and filled in with good loamy soil. 
4th. STAKING. — If trees are tall and much exposed to winds, a stake should be planted 
with the tree, to which it should be tied in such a manner as to avoid chafing. A piece of matting 
or cloth may be put between the tree and the stake. 
Stti. MULCHING.— When the tree is planted, throw around it as far as the roots extend, and 
a foot beyond, five to six inches deep of rough manure or litter. This is particiilarly necessary in 
dry ground, and is highly advantageous everywhere, both in spring and fall planting. It prevents 
the ground from baking or cracking, and maintains an equal temperature about the roots. 
6th. AFTER CULTURE. — Here is where the majority of planters fail. By far the best way 
is to allow no grass or grain to be grown among the trees, until they have attained bearins; size. 
There is no objection to cultivating the ground with a crop of vegetables or melons. Where from 
circumstances it is necessary to plant in a field of grass or grain, the ground should be spaded 
about each tree for a distance of at least four feet and then heavily mulched. There is nothing 
that shows the effects of good cultivation more, or pays better for it, than fruit trees. 
