60 
Homer N. Chase & Co., Geneva, New York 
PLANTING, continued 
holds the tree upright, let the other fill rich, mellow earth carefully in among the roots, stamping 
each shovelful firmly in so that all the roots will come in direct contact with the soil and no air reach 
them. When the roots are all covered, a pail of water should be thrown in to settle the earth around 
them. When the hole is entirely filled, the soil should be as firm as the surrounding surface. 
Remove all label wires from the trees, that they may not cut the branches; keep a record or map 
of the names and varieties planted. If the trees are tall or much exposed to winds, tie to a stake in 
such a manner as to prevent chafing. 
As soon as planted, a mulching of 3 or 4 inches of coarse manure should be placed about the 
tree to keep the ground moist. In orchards, instead of a mulch, cow-peas or the Canadian ficld-pca 
may be used for this purpose with e.xcellent results. In plowed land, they can be sown broadcast 
and either cut and cured for fodder, or in midsummer cut with a disc-harrow, and then plowed under 
the following spring. If trees are planted in sod land, these peas can be worked around the tree 
and in midsummer trampled down or cut and allowed to remain on the ground. 
When stock is planted in the fall, earth should be banked up about it so that the water will run 
ofT instead of settling about the roots where it might freeze and kill them. Early the following spring 
this dirt should be leveled down and the tree mulched or peas sown, as stated above. 
AFTER-CULTURE 
The general directions are to keep the soil loose and moist by frequent cultivation. We do not 
approve of raising grain or field corn, or seeding with permanent grasses, in an orchard, but sugar 
corn and vegetables may be grown if the ground is well fertilized and plenty of potash used. 
FERTILIZERS 
Wood-ashes are unquestionably the best fertilizer for all kinds of fruit trees but nursery stock 
of all kinds will be benefited by the liberal use of any well-rotted manure. 
PRUNING 
This, as a rule, should be done in March, or earlier, before the sap begins to flow. It is well 
to remember that pruning fruit trees is largely a matter of common sense, and that the object is to 
form a well-shaped tree, to allow the sun and air to get at the fruit, and to check a too rapid growth 
of wood, thereby throwing the sap into the fruit buds. If the tree is growing tall and rampant, cut it 
back; if all the limbs grow inward, thin them out in such a manner that the remaining branches will 
make an outward growth, that the sun and air may be let in. 
Grapes. Permit the vines to grow the first season without pruning. In November or December 
following, cut back the growth, allowing but three or four buds to remain. The ne.xt spring allow 
but two of the strongest buds to throw out shoots. These, in the fall, will be from 5 to 7 feet long, 
and should be fastened to the lower part of the trellis. When growth commences, pinch the buds so 
that the shoots will be from 10 to 12 inches apart. 
Currants and Gooseberries. The vigor of the plants may be kept up for many years by cutting 
out all wood that shows signs of failing and by annually cutting back or thinning out the young shoots. 
Raspberries and Blackberries. If the reader will bear in mind the following points, it will 
aid him much in the intelligent pruning of raspberries and blackberries. 
The canes are produced one season, bear fruit the next, and then die. After the canes have pro- 
duced one crop of fruit they are of no more use, and .should be removed. The roots continually furnish 
new suckers or canes, which, in their turn, bear one crop of fruit and then die. The point to be borne 
in mind is to do away entirely with the wood which has already produced its fruit, and to train the 
coming fruit-bearing wood in such a manner as to be self-supporting, and produce the most fruit. 
Roses. Tender varieties and climbers need but little cutting back, except to make the bush of 
good shape, but hardy varieties must be severely pruned each year. Do not be afhaid to cut thI'.m 
WELL BACK. 
Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, etc. These require but little pruning after the first year, except 
to remove a branch here and there which may spoil their appearance, and to keep them in symmetrical 
shape. 
