NORWAY SPRUCB 
[Picea BxcGlsaj 
Of all the large list of varieties of this class of conifers, the Norway Spruce is perhaps 
the most popular, best known and most widely planted. It makes a large, fine looking 
tree is the most rapid grower, thriires in a great variety of soils, is hardy everywhere, 
and stands close planting and severe pruning, and for this reason is used more than any 
other tree for wind-breaks and shelter-belts. Hedges 25 years old are kept down to a 
height of six feet, whereas the natural growth would be about 50 feet. It is naturally of 
a pvramidal symmetrical growth, branching to the ground. As single specimens or 
grouped on the lawn they are unapproachable, but are especially valuable for hedging. 
The Great Evergreen for Wind-breaks and Shelter-belts, 
This evergreen each year receives more attention by planters. Its strong, vigorous 
nature, coupled with singular beauty in form and foliage, gives a very plain clue to its 
popularity. For landscape purposes, it is probably the most generally used of all the 
spruces, and many things may be said for it in this connection. But it is as a means of 
etfectual protection against high winds that the spruce has become most generally known, 
due to the compact form of its growth. The boughs arrange themselves on the central 
trunk and do not die out at the bottom as the tree grows. Planted at the proper distance, 
a few years finds the branches interlacing so thoroughly that the hedge becomes as 
impenetrable a barrier to the wind as any stone wall could be. 
The Fruit Garden and Orchard, to be an annual success, must have protection 
from both the cold winds of winter and the hot, dry winds of summer. The root system of all 
fruit stock with few exceptions is "surface feeding." That is, tlie large part of the roots re- 
main in the top soil instead of penetrating deep tap-roots like the oak and many other native 
trees. For this reason, the tree or plant is more quickly affected by temporary conditions iu 
the top soil, and to make the home garden produce annual crops with a minimum of failures, 
the soil condition must be maintained in as normal degree as possible. Garden vegetables 
are also surface feeders, and ae these are nearly always combined with the fruit garden, a pro- 
vision made for the success of one will have an equai effect on the success of the other. Early 
vegetables like early fruits have need of a tempered atmosphere, and ttirive best during the 
first weeks if protecfed from the wind. 
The Farm Yard. TUat wind protection tor live stock is an absolute necessity is 
demonstrated concluBively by the actual experience of thousands of farmt:rs iu Minnesota and 
the Dfikotas alone. Experts in stock-raising all agree that nothing is more dicascrous 
to horses, cattle, sheep and s^ ine than to allow them to run for exercise in yardw that are 
expooed to chilling winds. Milch cows increase from 15 to 25 per cent, in their daily milking 
when protected from cold draughts, while it has been repeatedly proven that hogs can be 
fattened with far less teed if the pens are sheltered. Distemper, a much dreaded disease with 
both horses and sheep, is due largely to exposure in yards and runways. Poultry must have 
outdoor exercise in the winter, and this, when given in cold and windy yards, is not only the 
cause of the fatal roup, but is also injurious to laying hens. 
What Causes Drought? In other words, what makes the soil become dry ? The 
answer usually given this question is "evaporation." This states only half the case. Evap- 
oration, when more than normal, is caused by one thing alone, and that is wind. It is under- 
stood that both excessive heat and freezing produce a certain amount of evaporation, but 
without wind the loss of moisture from the soil would be very slight. The more exposed the 
location, the quicker does the wind sap the moisture. 
HOW to Mailt. Be careful to keep evemreen roots wet wliuo liaiuUmg. Komeml)er the sap is 
resinous, and that when once dry It cry-stallizes aud causes the death ot the tree. Plant trees three or I'oiu: 
inches deeper than In nursery , • , , » * i , » „ 
Distance. Plant 20 feet apart, or if very quick results are desired, plant 10 feet apart, and at tlie 
end of four or live years thin out every other tree. This Rives a .solid hedge from two to fi>ur years earlier 
than tlif) lon<'er di-ituiiee, hut before they boKin to Interlaee to any great extent, the thiiiiiing sliould he 
oommeueed or they will lieconie too crowded and die If it is desired to keep the hedge trimmed low ^say 
I5to2()feetlliketheonoshownontheothersido, they may be left closer together. 
Cultivation. The first thing to do before planting, is to make a good deep furrow on the line to he 
nlanted Set trees In the center of tliis and leave surface ot .soil ditching toward the tree from both sides. 
Tliis will carry all surplus rain fall direct to the roots of the hedge II no plow is handy, plant each tree 
ill a "di.sli" slanting toward tree from all directions. Keep the. grass and weeds pulled out. It is a good 
thin" to use the ground for corn, potatoes, pumpkins, etc , but do not sow grass crops around the hedge ai 
thev''will eventually kill it. Clover is espeeially disastrous. It the ground is not used for any crop it should 
be plowed in the spring, again in .Tnly and finally in October. Repeat this for at least four or live years, 
each winter niuleliing trees heavily with coarse barn nianure. 
pruiiiiiir Do not forget to trim off the ends ot the branches before planting. There should be no 
•Towth in the branches the fir.st year, as the entire force of the plant should be throwninto the root system. 
Tf a lied"e not higher than 15 or 20 feet is desired, the top liranch or "leader" should be cut out annually 
when trees have'reached that lieight. Where a high belt is the object, let the "leader" go unrestiained, 
but if the lower branches shoidd show signs of dying wlien the tree is from 15 to 25 years old, check the up- 
ward growth for several years until they regain their vigor. „ ..v * t ■,, to 
Airalti we Repeat— DO NOT plant seedling spruce pulled from the forest. Yon will waste 
vears of time. The Nursery-grown Spruce has a well established root system which tha seedling has not, 
and although the tlrst cost is more, time aud money are saved. 
