ooT. n, im.] 
FOREST AND STREAM. 
S07 
quently been killed, and the mountains are so high that 
it would be a physical impossibility for them to surmount 
them when they are fat, which is always the case later in 
the season. How did they get there? How could they 
get away? 
At 4:30 o'clock in the afternoon of Tuesday, Sept. 15, I . 
left Baltimore on Weems Line steamer Westmoreland, 
and after a pleasant trip down the Chesapeake Bay and 
up the Eappahannock Eiver I arrived at the pretty little 
town of Tappahannock, Va., at 1 o'clock P. M. the next 
day and was met on the dock by Capt. A. F. Bagby. Ho 
is a sportsman and also is mine host of the Hotel Bagby, 
and a mighty good host is he. The hotel is pleasantly sit- 
uated and well kept. They get their drinking water from 
an artesian well 720£t. deep, from which the water flows 
under a natural pressure. This water suf ply business is 
an important item, for most of the country towns get 
their water from nearby wells too often infected from 
surface drainage, which results in more or less danger of 
typhoid and malarial fevers. Tappahannock was troubled 
some in this way until they used artesian water, and is 
now one of the healthiest of towns, 
Capt. Bagby is a sportsman and good fellow, and had 
most kindly made every possible arrangement for me, so 
that when he drove me out to the marsh (three and one- 
half miles distant) the next day we found boats and 
pushers ready, and as soon as the tide served he and I 
went at it and bagged fifty-one rail birds, which was 
doing pretty well, as the tide was not high enough to 
enable us to get to the best parts of the marsh. 
The weather was too hot and tides too low for the next 
three or four days, so he supplied a nice team of horses 
and on Tuesday, Sept. 23, he and I rode twenty miles 
across the country to the Matapany River, and he located 
me at the hospitable old colonial house of W. T. Henley, 
Esq. 
Mr. Henley owns a marsh of some twenty or thirty 
acres in extent, located directly opposite his place, and as 
the tide served about noon we gunned on it and bagged 
forty-four birds, and Capt. Bagby returned home that after- 
noon. I remained two days longer, but tides were too 
. low for much sport and I got only twenty rail birds there; 
we could not get at them on account of low tides. If the 
sportsman can happen along there just after a big easterly 
gale toward last of September or early in October he is 
sure of fine sport in rail bird shooting, for there are two 
marshes near Tappahannock of considerable extent and 
they are swarming with birds, and Capt, Bagby will 
always make arrangements for boats and pushers. And 
so ended my rail bird shooting for the season of 1896. 
ROBEET C. LOWRY. 
ACROSS THE OLYMPICS. 
Seattle, Wash., Sept. 30. — Editor Forest and Stream: 
Frank Reid, of Buffalo, N. Y., and Roland Hopper, of 
Orange, N. J., have in their possession two sets of mag- 
nificent bull elk horns, a tropby of their eventful trip over 
the Olympic Mountains from Hood Canal to the Pacific 
Ocean, a trip which has not been taken previously except 
by two parties — one the Government expedition in 1890, 
and the other a press exploring venture about the same 
time. The little party of which Reid and Hopper were 
members traveled more miles, endm-ed more hardships, 
and had more genuine pleasure and saw more grand 
sights than any other hunting party which has yet had its 
experiences in western Washington given to the public. 
The trip was planned about a year ago, while Frank Reid 
and a party of friends were camping at Clifton, which is 
the extreme head of Hood Canal. Reid had been anxious 
to visit the practically unexplored portions of the Olym- 
pics for some time and briefly outlined his plan, which 
included a trip over the Olympics, through the stamping 
ground of the elk, blue grouse and bear, to the head- 
waters of the Quinault River on the western slope, and 
then down the river to the lake of the same name. After 
a hunt and fish at the lake he proposed to secure the 
services of Indians and shoot the rapids of the lower 
Quinault River and land at the Quinault Indian reserva- 
tion on the Pacific Ocean, From there he suggested a 
trip either along the shore or by canoe to Cape Flattery, 
and then up the Sound to Seattle, making a trip of 265 
miles. He found kindred spirits in Roland I. Hopper, of 
Orange, N. J.; Fred Ctiurch, son of the famous painter, 
who lives on tne banks of the Hudson River; and Edward 
Munn, who was manager of the Princeton football team 
in 1895. Reid had been "holding down" a claim on the 
shore of Lake Cushman for two or three years, but his 
home is in Buffalo, N. Y, 
Every member of the party was living near Lake Cush- 
-man, tnat beautilul little body of water which lies in a 
deep valley at the eastern base of the Olympics, sur- 
rounded by forests of giant firs and within hand-shaking 
distance ot Mount Rose and Mount Ellinor, which tower 
5,000ft. above it. In preparing for the journey it was 
calculated that six weeks' provisions would be necessary. 
Each man was allotted a 40ib. pack in addition to his 
firearms and ammunition, which all hunters will recog- 
nize as no small burden in itself. Only four rifles were 
taken along — one .SOoal. new Savage rifle, two .45-90 
Winchesters aud one .38 55 Marlin. The camping outfit 
and provisions were put on three small but strong and 
sure-footed cay uses. The combined weight of the loads 
carried by the cayuses was about 5001b8. , and great care 
was taken to see that these bm-dens were securely fas- 
tened to the beasts, because the shifting of a pack on a 
narrow, mountainous trail not only means hard work, but 
possibly the loss of both animal and luggage as well. On 
the evening of July 24 everything was ready for the start, 
and the next morning witnessed the assembling of a 
picturesque party at the west side of Lake Cushman, where 
the Government trail, made in 1890 by Lieut. O'Neil's 
party, has its beginning. Each one of the party wore 
the toughest looking wide-brimmed sombrero ever seen, 
coarse shoes with hobnails, and a paii" of overalls and 
undershirt, In fact, each one had aimed to cut the 
weight of his outfit to the minimum and still keep it 
serviceable. To a person who has never plodded through 
a Waahington forest or clambered up a mountain side in 
pursuit of a deer it is hard to convey an adequate idea of 
the wear and tear on clothes and footwear. If a person 
not acquainted with the Olympics becomes lost, even 
though a short distance from nis friends, he will of ttimes 
find his clothes in shreds when at last he hears aresponse 
to his "whoo-hoo." 
At the end of the second day out from Lake Cushman 
the Uttle party found itself at the head of the Skokomish 
River, twenty-five miles from home. Many people speak 
of this place as the "First Divide," and although the Lake 
Cushman boys looked upon it as a comparatively easy 
part of the journey, a man unaccustomed to such jaunts 
would involuntarily remark, ' 'Deliver me from any harder 
work with this pack on my back." 
The rain came down in torrents now and there was a 
great hustling to make camp and get a fire started. The 
camp having been made and the coftee-pot set to boiling 
and the bacon to frying, all gathered around and calcu- 
lated which would get the lion's share. Out camping in 
the Olympics a man unconsciously arrives at that stage 
when he figures on the size of each piece of bacon and 
amount of coffee left in the pot after the first round. 
They talked that evening of the trip up the Skokomish 
and congratulated themselves that they still had three 
horses, because it was a wonder that one of the beasts 
had not been killed while it was rolling down the moun- 
tain side. It is truly wonderful how near a man or beast 
will come to death on a mountain journey, and yet escape 
with a few bruises and scratches. If one of those three 
cayuses could talk, its story of a roll down the mountain 
would be interesting. What caused the outbreak is still 
a mystery, but without the slightest warning this animal 
commenced plunging, and a moment later cleared a 4ft. 
log at the side of the trail and went rolling down the 
steep decline to the river below, carrying with it a pack 
weighing 150lb3. Fifty feet below the trail a friendly log 
that was propped slightly above the ground stopped the 
cayuse in its mad flight, and the startled hunters had the 
"pleasure" of gazing down upon a conglomerate mix-up 
of a big pack and a small animal, whose four feet were 
pawing the air in a wild manner. With some misgivings 
the hunters worked their way down to the scene of disaster 
and cut the pack loose to effect a rescue. 
Along the river at stated points may be found the 
places where Lieut. O'Neil camped, Each camp has a 
number, and even to this day the ranchers who live in the 
Lake Cushman country speak of them as Camp No. 3 or 
4 or 5. The last-mentioned would afford a writer mate- 
rial for a clever story. At this point the restless waters 
juDop and tumble over ragged rocks that form the bot- 
tom of a caiion. From bank to bank it is fully 100ft., 
and from top to bottom. 80ft. A log not more than 3ft. in 
diameter spans this chasm, making a convenient foot- 
walk for any one who desires to cross. Sometimes hunt- 
ers walk boldly out on the rough surface and after 
reaching the middle suddenly think of home and mother, 
and make the remainder of tne journey on their stomachs, 
while the waters roar below them in vain efforts to in- 
duce a fall. Tradition has it that Lieut. O'Neil used to 
drill his men on that log in order to cure them of any dis- 
position to look right or left. Did this party walk the 
log? Oh, no; they had horses to get across, so all went up 
stream to a ford and crossed in safety. Roland Hopper 
tried to walk the log two or three years ago with a heavy 
pack. When he was part way across the pack shifted, 
and for a moment it was a life and death balance act 
with him. Finally he effected a compromise by embrac- 
ing the log. Hopper says he is glad he was not one of 
O'Neil's soldiers. 
After four days of almost incessant rain camp was 
broken and the party made its way over a rough country to 
the headwaters of the Duckabush, This point is called 
the second and sometimes the main divide. It is the 
point that separates the rivers which flow into Hood 
Canal from those that make their way down the steep 
western slope to the Pacific Ocean. On a clear day a 
magnificent panorama stretches itself in aU directions be- 
fore the eyes of the adventurous hunter. Within a 
quarter of a mile is the Duckabush glacier, a sight in it- 
self worth traveling miles, and from its base creeps the 
stream that finally loses itself in the salt waters of Hood 
Canal. At the left hand, far away, can be seen Gray's Har- 
bor, while down below stretches the beautiful country of 
the Quinault Indians. To the northwest towers Mount 
Olympus, its jagged head 8,000ft. above the level of the 
sea. In the northeast another mighty sentinel. Mount 
Constance, blocks the way, raising itself into the clouds 
as if to rival Mount Olympus. Close at hand lies Lake 
Marmot, whose waters are cold as ice; and in all direc- 
tions peaks, some large, some small, rise up like barriers 
against the inquisitive hunter. 
The main divide is about 5,500ft, above the sea's level, 
but from it more of the rugged beauty of the Olympics 
can be seen than at any other point. When the party 
pitched camp near Lake Marmot and commenced the con- 
struction of a cabin, they were compelled to dig down 
into deep snow banks. Before the end of a week, how- 
ever, much of this had disappeared, and the vaUeys be- 
came transformed as if by magic into gardens of paradise. 
As the hot rays of the sim beat upon the snow and drove 
it back foot by foot, rich, luxuriant grass made its ap- 
pearance and grew like mushrooms. The valleys glowed 
with a carpeting of wild flowers. There would be im- 
mense patches of red here, blue there, white somewhere 
else, and yellow further on. Fir trees had disappeared, 
and in their place could be found Alaska cedar and shrubs. 
During the turee weeks that the party camped in this 
country of flowers, valleys, glaciers, mountain peaks and 
big game, the weather was hot and there was no call for 
heavy clothing. The moonlight nights were wonderful 
to behold, and Reid became sort of moonstruck until one 
evening he saw a shadow stealing steadily across its sur- 
face. He looked and looked, and rubbed his eyes and 
rubbed them harder. A horrible idea entered his mind. 
He could not bear to think of it, but yelled to his com- 
panions to come and look at the most wonderful sight the 
neavens had yet shown them. Some one remembered 
that there was to be an eclipse of the moon Aug. 23 and 
mentioned that fact, which gave Reid instant relief. 
It was four days from the time camp was first made 
that Reid and Hopper were able to take their first hunt 
for elk. A heavy fog had hovered over the mountains, 
making it out of question for an extended trip over the 
"hogbacks," down steep snow slides, or through deep and 
narrow ravines. Probably this enforced delay made them 
all the more eager and determined when they did shoulder 
their rifles and take to the woods. They had not gone far 
from camp when they discovered signs of big game. 
They tramped nearly all day with the alluring track be- 
fore them, but not a horn was seen. Finally they stopped 
on a ridge and were discussing the best direction in which 
to turn their steps, when they caught sight of some mov- 
ing objects coming down a steep slide. 
"Sure as you're born, we've got 'em at last," whispered 
Heid in smothered excitemeut. 
"There is elk dead certain," replied Hopper, "and they 
will work right along down the cut at tne base of this 
ridge. We've got 'em at last." 
The elk, unconscious of danger, came down the snowy 
road, sliding and jumping, the herd being led by a mag- 
nificent young bull. The declivity was so sharp that 
when they would take a step forward their bodies would 
swing around, but this did not seem to worry them in the 
least, and they trooped along. The hunters watched 
them for several minutes before taking to cover and com- 
mencing the arduous journey to a position of vantage. It 
is impossible to detail nere all the difficulties encountered 
in working to and around the herd. At last it was ac- 
complished and the hunters were within 100yds, of forty 
fine specimens of the Olympic kings. Some were 
stretched out on the snow resting, whfle others were 
standing peacefully or browsing. Hopper unslung his 
kodak and moving up a little nearer took, a snap shot at 
the herd. This interesting piece of work accomplished, 
each man picked out a young bull and moved up. A twig 
snapped and the sound, slight though it was, reached the 
ears of two cows that were slightly separated from the 
main herd and nearer the hunters. The cows jumped to 
their feet, and instantly the whole herd was aroused. The 
hunters lost no time, but moved rapidly into the open. 
With this forty elk sprang up in alarm and made off up 
the mountain, but not before two sharp, ringing reports 
were heard in the crisp mountain air, and the two young 
bulls had been won. 
No time was lost bringing horses from camp to pack in 
the prizes of the chase. More pictures were taken, and 
this developed the fact that the curtain string had been 
broken when Hopper snapped at the herd. 
One day after this Raid and Munn were out in the 
mountains when they came upon a large black bear 
asleep at the base of a tree. Reid stopped short and 
threw a shell into the chamber of his rifle. As he did so 
the bear awoke with a grunt and made off only to fall 
dead with a bullet in his head. The same day Munn 
kiUed a fine specimen of the fisher. This ended the hunt- 
ing. Of fishing there was none to be had. Lake Marmot 
furnished an abundance of fine frogs' legs, but so far as 
the party discovered there was not a fish in the lake. 
On the morning of Aug. 25 camp was broken and, ac- 
cording to previous arrangements, Munn started back for 
Lake Cushman with the horses and the greater part of 
the outfit. Church, Reid and Hopper each took a pack of 
601bs. and started for the Pacific Ocean, intending to fol- 
low the O'Neil trail, which has a course along the bank of 
the Quinault River. On the downward journey the first 
object of interest is the Lindsley glacier, which is about 
6,000ft. above the level of the sea. It is a huge mass of 
ice, easily discerned from a long distance, and rivals in - 
grandeur many of the already famous glaciers. It gives 
rise to a small stream of water, which after flowing a 
short distance is known as the Quinault. The water 
is white and, although it flows with great rapidity, 
it is not diflficult to cross owing to its narrow- 
ness. The hunters soon discovered that the O'Neil trail 
was overgrown, and that in many cases the blazings 
made on the trunks of trees had disappeared, and could 
be found again only by the closest scrutiny. Indeed it 
would have been a difficult matter to f oUow the trail at 
ail had it not been for the knowledge of Church, who 
acted as guide for Lieut. O'Neil. The party worked along 
for a considerable distance through dense thickets and 
over large windfalls. Such slow progress was made that 
it became a matter of policy as well as expediency to re- 
sort to another method of reaching the lowlands. The 
forest was literally covered with elJi trails, and it was to 
this kind of a road that they trusted their footsteps. A 
great difficulty lay in keeping on a straight course, be- 
cause at frequent intervals cross tracks would lead out 
into new feeding grounds. On many an occasion, when 
the trail appeared to be clearly defined and certain of an 
extended course, it would suddenly stop in the midst of 
some dense thicket or against a windfall. Any hunter 
who has attempted to make his way over a moderately 
rough trail with a 40lb. pack on his shoulders, cartridge 
belt around hia waist and a rifle in his hand will recog- 
nize the actual hardships endured by these hunters. At 
night they slept by a small camp-fire, rolled up in blank- 
ets, and, after the trials of the day, were not troubled by 
sleep-disturbing dreams. Their sleeping bags are ordi- 
nary blankets folded lengthwise, then sewed at one end 
and up the open side. Ac night they erept in, pulled the 
upper edges close around tneir necks, rolled over and 
thus found themselves as snug as if they were in a 
weather bed. 
On the second day the fishing began to be good. In 
fact, they did not have tackle strong enough to hold the 
trout that were eager to grab the fly which struck the 
rifle or eddy. It was an easy matter to step out into the 
Tiv«r and in five minutes kill enough trout for a meal. It 
took five days to reach Lake Quinault, a beautiful little 
body of water about five miles long. The journey could 
have been made in a much shorter time, but the pleasure 
of spending a half day upon the banks of the beautiful 
stream could not be passed. There were signs of bear, 
elk and cougar everywnere, but the actual game did not 
put in its appearance. 
It was surprising how many fine farms, with good im- 
provements, are located around Lake Quinault. The 
farmers were invariably hospitable, and dia everything in 
their power to give the visitors from the other side of the 
mountam a good time. Many pictures were taken, and 
it was with regret that the little party got ready for its 
exciting trip through the rapids of the lower Quinault 
River. Before going one morning was spent in watching 
the Indiana catch salmon, It is claimed that the Quinault 
salmon are superior to every other variety known except 
those taken in one part of Scotland. The Quinault salmon 
do not exceed 71bs. in weight. They are called blue- 
backs. Their flesh is very red and of a very fine grain, 
oily and rich. 
The trip through the rapids of the Quinault is certain 
to become famous within a few years. There are fifty 
shoots and in many cases life is in danger. Our hunters' 
estimation of George Underwood, the Indian guide, who 
sat nonchalantly in the stern of the canoe, avoiding a rock 
here, gracefully skirtiug a curve there, and heading 
through a sea of foam, went up several points. Ten miles 
from the ocean the sound of the surf could be heard. At 
first the sound resembled that from a great battle, and as 
it came nearer it seemed as if volley after volley was 
being fired from immense gtms. 
After resting a day at the reservation the hunters 
