THE RED CEDAR 
245 
yet again one pauses on a November 
day to note the charm of an old tree 
wreathed with Bittersweet [Celastrus 
scandens)^ hanging its clusters of bright 
orange and scarlet berries from the 
straggling limbs. These berries remain 
brightall winter and contrast charming- 
ly with the blue berries of the female 
Juniper, which are a staple food of many 
of our winter birds. 
In the grounds here the Red Cedar 
springs up everywhere and is especially 
effective as a mass around an old Ash 
tree crowning a ridge of limestone rock. 
In the spring these rocks are covered 
with moss and ferns, and masses of the 
red and yellow Columbine, that wild- 
flower gipsy which loves our wildest 
cliffs and is yet one of the most readily 
naturalised of native plants. In another 
place it makes a good backingfor double 
JapaneseCherries,pinkandwhite,which 
are richly beautiful in May against the 
dark screen of Juniper. Another tree we 
use here is the double-flowering Peach 
which has large rosy-red flowers before 
the foliage matures. This has for near 
neighbour a large old Cherry tree which 
furnishes the necessary contrast of green 
foliage upon the one side, while a group 
of Red Cedars further back throws up 
the brilliant colouring of the Peach with 
an effect almost startling. 
Increase and The sccds of the Red Cedar 
Culture. germinate slowly, often 
showing no signs of life until the second 
year. A bulletin issued by the United 
States Forestry Division says that " as 
soon as ripe the seeds should be soaked 
for some time in hot water, and then 
mixed with sand and kept moist until 
the following year. They are best plant- 
ed in thefall, twelve months after gather- 
ing, for though they will keep till the 
following spring they do not germinate 
sofreelyaswhenautumn-sown. Treated 
in this way the seeds sprout in a few 
weeks after sowing and the seedlings 
should be transplanted to about 5 inches 
apart in the springof their second season. 
By the end of thesecond year they should 
be 7 or 8 inches high and well rooted, 
and it is best to transplant again in March 
or April of the third season to about 8 
or 9 inches apart. When finally planted 
inthefollowingspringthe plants should 
be moved with a ball to 4 feet apart, and 
well watered after planting ; they will 
then soon shade the ground and need 
no further care. It is a tree that moves 
well even to a considerable size, but, 
as with all forest trees, young seedlings 
give the best results. The young poles 
and saplings furnish material for fences, 
stakes, and hoops, yielding an income 
that goes far towards meeting expenses. 
At a diameter of 6 inches the tree fur- 
nishes excellent posts." 
Under natural conditions, though 
germination may be slow it is sure. 
Here, in a grove of Oaks and other hard- 
wood trees,the seedlings germinatefree- 
ly under the shade of the deciduous trees, 
and grow to maturity with no care. 
Browsingcattle ofteninjure young trees, 
but where the ground is protected they 
increase rapidly, reaching an average 
height of 16 feet in twelve years. The 
young trees vary so much in colour and 
habit that from a single batch of seed- 
lings one can select varieties so unlike 
as to seem wholly different trees. The 
