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got up witMn an incli of lier life. The town is laid out 
in square blocks, containing lots about a quarter of an 
acre eacb, witK streets running at right angles, as in 
American cities. The houses are very scattered, poorly- 
built, and mostly roofed with corrugated iron. The roads 
are very fairly kept, but the side-walks are full of ups and 
downs, and are consequently dangerous at night without 
great care, as the lighting is insufficient, consisting of a 
few miserable oil lamps. The Caffres are by law obliged 
to wear garments in the towns, and extraordinary objects 
some of them turn out, their tastes being very varied — a 
soldier's tunic being the favourite dress ; the guards, the 
line, the metropolitan police, the volunteers, &c., all having 
their representatives, as shewn by the buttons on the 
niggers' coats. Some wear a sack, with a hole for the 
head cut in the bottom, and arm holes at the sides ; some 
support a tall hat, most none at all. One fellow I saw in 
a very short drummer's tunic, a tall hat, and not another 
rag on him. I was much amused to see all the women 
with their chignons, and as these were evidently the 
fashion all up the country, I presume that London ladies 
must have originally got the idea from the niggers, who 
piled up the small amount of hair they possess on the top 
of their heads in the most approved fashion, but did not 
apparently make use of other people's to eke out their 
own. The men are also great hair-dressers ; and I often 
saw the fellows doing each other's hair, the operation 
taking much time and care, as not a hair was allowed to 
remain out of place. The natives of these parts are fine 
specimens of the human race, quite equal in physique to 
any Europeans, and, to my mind, look much less repulsive 
when in their natural state, and free from European 
clothes. I suppose it is owing to the dark colour of their 
skins, but one's feelings of modesty are not shocked as 
they would be by the want of clothing on a white man ; 
