falls, fka ma had a little brush of what looked like horse hair stuck 
In the hack of their hats. -This style was common ah out Attersce-and 
frequent in Vienna. The llttlo brush is set in ■ little silror holder 
(like a thimble with the bottom out) and a pin on the inside fastens* 
it to the hat, r fne effect' is ttty jau»ty. Kost of the men" wear short 
trousers.' At Brenner custom house 1 fat back my suitcase with 
the linen. When I said I was going to take it to America the Italians 
passed it without any fuss. I had not seen a soldier sine® I loft 
franco • Share were Italian soldiers at tha border and a street full 
of them as I came her® In the bus this morning. It was near sunset 
when wo got into Italy so I aid not see much of this country, fhoy did 
not call all off for IfLorene© (or Florence) and I couldn't soo tha 
name of the city but I got off an a chance and happened to be right. 1 
— — later: S|tt world doesn't §*<# quite so cold after coffee and 
bread. It 16 tha first good coffee I hare tasted since ! left the ship 
Bo you rememfcer Eark Twain's recipe for German coffee? I think they 
used it in Munich, frau Schneider's was good but very weak and neyor 
hot. With ant §as burner to cool: by I understood the reason and neyer 
mentioned it. She Ouuatra coffee at thelackel 1 o bad a foreign flayer. 
— -• -she lire is 17 to .fl, I h&ye' to do a head-raokingamouat of arith- 
metlo those days. I hope the German mark dooa net drop too far before 
I g«t back to Pcutsohland. She art ralleries are open here from 10 
till £ on Sunday, so I am goins there, 1 shell hare a chance to walk 
around a Utile bofara 10, This hotel faces the Arao rivar. — —later: 
I bays looked upon the "Old Masters" and live — they aro enough to kill 
most anybody. I "can understand that yery deyeut people might leyerenoe 
these pictures, if they had little taste and no sense of humor, but 
why artists prize them is a mystery. She copies wa are all familiar 
with looked punk, but I thought the eriginals had life or something 
to be admired as they are. She ronaral Impression left on my mind- is 
