SCHOOL GARDENING. 
301 
growing and flower borders, and at the same time gain some ideas of 
the later work. 
The Garden. — The garden should, if possible, have an open, southern 
aspect, sheltered from north and east winds, with soil of medium con- 
sistency — neither too heavy nor too light — and fairly deep. For super- 
vision and access it is best situated within a few minutes' walk of the 
school. From twenty to thirty rods would be a convenient size for a 
small school. It may be remembered that the common weeds in the 
plot give some indication of the soil and its drainage. Generally speak- 
ing, there is little choice of ground, but the foregoing points are worth 
bearing in mind. 
If there is no protection against the cold winds, a permanent hedge 
can be rapidly grown if Myrobalan plum is planted. 
A lock-up shed for tools — at any rate a rough shelter against the 
weather — should be erected. 
Reasonable security of tenure is necessary. 
Garden Requisites. — The tools — a little less than full-size where 
younger scholars are to receive instruction — should include spades, 
forks, hoes (draw and Dutch *), rakes, lines, a wheelbarrow, one or 
two gallon watering-pots, tubs for sprays and liquid manure, a sprayer 
and various sundries. 
Planning the Garden. — As this depends upon shape, size, and posi- 
tion, no definite plan suitable for every garden can be given, but as 
a rule a one-rod plot for each child gives better results than somewhat 
larger plots shared by two or more children, though the latter are an 
improvement upon a garden worked by all the children in common. 
There should, however, always be one common plot, in which a large 
variety of vegetables would be grown ; also a small experimental plot, 
and fruit and flower plots. Still smaller places should be marked off for 
a frame, rubbish and bonfire heaps, compost heaps, &c. Nursery 
beds can be made on sheltered spots, and room for permanent crops 
like rhubarb, asparagus, and certain herbs reserved. 
Management. — Two lessons of one, or one hour and a half each 
weekly are found more useful than one longer one. They are probably 
best taken at the end of morning or afternoon school. Cropping should 
invariably be in rotation, and the rows should run as nearly as possible 
north and south. 
It is a great advantage if a few minutes preceding the actual garden 
work can be devoted to a discussion of the coming operations, and the 
actual work done recorded immediately afterwards in special note- 
books while fresh in the minds of the children. These books should 
contain diary, plans of the whole garden, plans of individual plots 
drawn to scale to show cropping, table of seeds sown, quantities of 
produce, income and expenditure, and notes of insects, &c, observed. 
Experiments, and diagrams of operations are too useful to be omitted. 
Tools must be cleaned after each time of using, and arranged 
* The "Caxton Cultivator," with three teeth, is an excellent tool for light 
and medium soils. 
vol. xliii. x 
