128 Seven Years in Central Africa, [Dec. 
beyond. The next day Esupwa, through which runs the 
Catumbella River, may be reached in time for dinner, after which 
the loads are rearranged, water-gourds filled, and the caravan files 
up the mountain side through a wild and beautiful canon. Late 
in the afternoon a camp is reached not far from the base of 
Mount Losingi. As the water here is bad, the traveller may 
rejoice if the men have not used up his supply brought from the 
river below. With the morning light the men file out of camp 
with their loads, and begin the remaining climb to the top of this 
range, and descend into the valley of the Kuvali, in Chisanje. 
" Here for the first time we meet signs of human habitations. 
At the market-place by the roadside we buy bananas and such 
vegetables as we can find. The men exchange needles, cloth, 
salt, and gunpowder, for meal, native beer, and meat. The 
excitement and gesticulations at one of these roadside markets 
would be worthy of Wall Street. 
" On the morrow, crossing the Kuvali twice, the way leads 
through the most tropical portion of our journey, the path passing 
for some distance along the river banks under an archway of 
hanging vines and creepers. Beyond this, on each side of the 
road, mountains of solid rock, like huge boulders, rise a thousand 
feet above us. As we come to the next climb we pass out of the 
tropics. We can almost see the line of demarcation, where we 
leave the baobab and other tropical trees, and meet the familiar 
foliage of the temperate zone. Reaching the top of these hills 
we camp near Olombingo, a mountain that rises far above 
us, and forms twin peaks, giving it the name of * the horns.' 
From Chisanje to Ngaliatena the land near the road is not 
inhabited, as far as we can learn. From Olombingo to Senhor 
Coimbra's the road passes over much level ground, there being 
only a slight rise between the two places. At the Bailombo 
River the crossing in the wet season is usually made by a bridge, 
at which there is a scene of wildest confusion; for the bridge- 
men take toll, and each one tries to get over with his friends. 
Some miles beyond we pass the residence of Senhor Coimbra, 
who so kindly cared for the missionaries when they were driven 
out of Bailundu, and enter camp a few miles beyond his place. 
As the climb over Mount Elonga is a long and hard one, the 
men are up and off betimes. On this march we pass some 
