1885.] From Benguella to Garenganze. 153 
employment of a Portuguese trader, at much higher pay than I 
could afford to give him. 
27//^. — A very hot day. Made but a short journey along the 
Shemoi. Crowds of people lined the path, shouting, dancing, 
and singing in a very excited way. It seems that I am the first 
white man who has ever passed this way ; Cameron's road was 
much to the north. Camped at Boma's. This small chief seemed 
to be a very reasonable man, and for the eight yards I sent him 
he gave me a full return in a good-sized pig. It seems to be 
a matter of general surprise that a white man should travel 
with so few carriers ; they are accustomed to the passing of 
native caravans twice or thrice as large as mine. I have given 
up buying anything myself from the natives, as whenever I offer 
to buy they double their price right off. " Is it not a white man ? 
Will he cut his cloth up into little pieces?" 
Hearing the villagers were coming to play in my camp this 
evening, I confess that a cold sweat broke over me at the very 
thought of it. The days at this time of the year are scorching^ 
especially in this valley, and the nights but reflect the heat of the 
day in a more breathless way, so that sleep is hardly possible ; 
but add drums and singers, and the case is hopeless. I sent a 
present of meat to the village, beseeching them not to come 
to my camp. They were not willing, however, to give up the 
idea, but kept on the other side of the Shemoi river, and 
drummed and danced there all night long. 
28M. — This morning I was escorted a long way on the road by 
a band of children — laughing, singing, merry little ones ; no 
sight so reminds me of home, and none is so touching. Camped 
by the Dala Cavala ; many villages all around, and food abundant. 
CARRIERS REFRACTORY. 
November 2<)th. — Remained in camp. Four of my men laid down 
their loads, and refused to go further. I told them that if they 
meant to return they could do so, and I would say nothing, but that 
I would certainly take from them what I had given, and would 
further bring a charge against them on my return to Bihe. In 
this nearly all the rest of the men supported me, and by evening 
they had decided to take their loads and go on quietly. Spent 
most of the afternoon reading and explaining, as best I could. 
